the word "catamaran”) dugouts come in various hues of salt-toughened wood. Their crews divide between "netters” and "chummers," the latter a term for hook-and-line fishers that was borrowed from the British.
The fish left over after those for household use are sold to itinerant hawkers who have mounted wide wooden boxes on the back of bicycles. They wobble their way into the countryside, fish tails sticking out either side of the box, calling out "Lu! Lu!” (short for malu, the Sinhalese word for fish).
A drive along the coastal highway passes one ramshackle wooden roadside stall after the other with gorgeous rows of tuna lined up like cordwood. They also sell squid, seer, kingfish, slabs of shark big enough to cover a dinner plate, and tiny silver sprats that are dried and munched like popcorn.
Other stalls display freshly caught skipjacks drying in the sun. Although the chewy locally-dried tuna is often referred to as "Maldive fish,” the authentic Maldive fish used in restaurants is tougher than dried leather.
The most idiosyncratic of Sri Lanka's fishermen are the island's famous stilt fishers. These men wedge sturdy poles into rock crevices in the shallows, to which they attach a tiny sling-net that passes for a seat. While the catch is modest, some of the brilliantly colored coral-dwellers they bring in, such as the striped mullet, are among the tastiest on the island.
Another fishing style is net casting. Fishermen patrol tidal pools and rocky ledges in the late afternoon in search of the parrotfish or trevallly hungry enough to let down its guard as night approaches. Netters have hurling styles so unique that locals can identify someone at a distance by the way he throws his net.
Mangoes, coconuts, pumpkin, and bananas are just some of the fruits and vegetables available from roadside stalls such as this.
Stilt fishermen wedge wooden poles into rock crevices to use as a perch while fishing.
One Land, Many Peoples
Sri Lanka’s multiethnic population ensures culinary variety
Wendy Hutton
Sri Lanka boasts a vast array of tropical fruits, vegetables, and spices, as well as an abundance of fish and other seafood in its lakes, rivers, and seas, and wild game in its forests. The way Sri Lankans put this bounty together in the kitchen depends to some extent on where they live, and even more upon their ethnic and religious background.
The multiethnic mix of people living on this small island comprises Sinhalese, Tamils, Moors (Muslims), Burghers and Eurasians, Malays, and Veddhas.
The majority of the population are Sinhalese, believed to be descended from Indo-Aryans who arrived from northern India more than 2,000 years ago and intermarried with scattered groups of tribal Veddhas. Over the centuries, the cooking of the Sinhalese has evolved into two slightly different styles: coastal or “low country" Sinhalese, and Kandy or “upcountry" Sinhalese.
Regardless of where they live, the staple food for Sinhalese (and indeed, for all Sri Lankans) is rice. This is usually accompanied by a range of spiced vegetables, fish, poultry, meat, or game dishes. Most Sinhalese are Buddhist, and although the taking of life is against Buddhist teachings, most Sinhalese don’t mind eating food which has been killed by others. Strict Buddhists, however, are vegetarian (something they share with a number of Hindu Tamils).
In coastal Sinhalese cuisine, fish, and other seafood feature far more widely than poultry or meat, and coconut milk is the preferred base for curries. Towns such as Bentota, Chilaw, and Batticaloa are noted for excellent seafood but most famous of all is Negombo. The crab and shrimp dishes from this west coast town are well-known throughout Sri Lanka. Negombo is also the site of one of the island’s busiest and most colorful fish markets.
Another Sinhalese specialty from the coast is ambulthiyal, or sour claypot fish. At its best in the Southern town of Ambalangoda, ambulthiyal is a dish of balaya (bonito) which uses goraka (gamboge) as both a flavoring and a preservative—even in Sri Lanka’s heat and humidity, this dish can keep for up to a week.
An ingredient known as Maldive fish is widely used as a seasoning throughout Sri Lanka, but especially in coastal regions. It is made from a type of bonito (also known as skipjack) which is boiled, smoked, and sun-dried until it is rock hard.
Kandy, the heart of upcountry Sri Lanka, remained an independent Sinhalese kingdom until the British finally took over in 1815, thus it largely escaped the social and culinary influences of the Portuguese and Dutch. Thanks to the higher altitude and cooler climate, a wide range of vegetables and fruits flourish around Kandy and other upcountry regions, which are renowned for their range of delicious vegetable dishes.
Many Kandian curries are made with unusual ingredients such as young jackfruit, jackfruit seeds, cashews, breadfruit, and green papaya, while various edible flowers such as turmeric, hibiscus, and sesbania may end up in an omelette or curry. Game, including deer and wild birds, was also an upcountry favorite, although dwindling forests and restrictions on hunting in protected areas have diminished the amount of game now being cooked in upcountry kitchens.
A street vendor prepares kaum (left) and kokis (right), two traditional deep-fried snacks or sweetmeats as they are known in Sri Lanka.
Sinhalese refer to their main meal as "rice and curry,” and normally serve several types of spiced or "curried” dishes of vegetables, fish, meat, or poultry. Curries are classified by their spicing and method of cooking rather than by their main ingredient. Thus, there are "red” curries which contain an often incendiary amount of chile, and usually a limited number of spices. There are also the distinctively Sinhalese "black” curries which develop a wonderfully rich aroma and flavor, thanks to the technique of roasting whole spices (primarily coriander, cumin, and fennel) to a rich brown color before grinding them. "Brown” curries are made from unroasted spices, while "white” curries, which contain plenty of coconut milk and very little chile, are generally quite mild.
When choosing which curries to serve with the rice, Sinhalese cooks ensure that there is a variety of textures as well as flavors, with at least one fairly liquid, or soupy, curry to help moisten the rice, and usually a relatively dry curry with a thick gravy. One of the curries will most likely be a spiced lentil dish, and there is sure to be at least one pungent side dish or condiment known as a sambol (from the Malay sambal). These sambol, also know as "rice pullers,” are guaranteed to whet the appetite with their basic ingredient—anything from onion to bitter gourd, dried shrimp to salted lime—heightened by the flavors of chile, onion, salt, and Maldive fish.
One of the most popular sambol, pol sambol, is made with freshly grated coconut; a simple meal of rice, lentils, pol sambol, and mallung is inexpensive, nutritious, and utterly satisfying. Mallung, which provides an unmistakable Sinhalese accent to every meal, is a vitamin- and mineral-packed mixture of leafy greens, freshly grated coconut, lime juice, chile, and powdered Maldive fish. Many of the greens used in a mallung are plucked from the kitchen garden, including young passionfruit leaves, gotu kala (Asian pennywort), young chile leaves, young leaves from the drumstick tree, and the leaves of the flowering cassia tree.
The first Tamils are believed to have arrived at about the same time as the Indo-Ayrans, around 2,000 years ago. Successive waves of Tamils from southern India established themselves in Sri Lanka, mostly in the north, on the Jaffna peninsula.
