to cater to the needs of visitors two to three times their own number. Local authorities, gravely concerned about maintenance of order in their areas, repeatedly issued warnings against unfair rates for transportation, overnight accommodations, and other services. Evidence of the popularity of pilgrimages all over Japan are also the innumerable stories of miracles and songs in praise of Kannon that were composed. In some villages, the Kannon pilgrimage was so important that it constituted a rite of passage for the villagers.
Westernization and modernization have inevitably led to a decline of old customs in Japan, including pilgrimages. In the 1950s and 1960s, moreover, the Japanese were too involved in rebuilding their war-devastated economy to pay much attention to their religious traditions. Many temples of the Chichibu pilgrimage fell into disuse and ruin. Recently, however, there has been a revival of interest in the course, and many pilgrims can be seen hiking from temple to temple, although the majority arrive in packaged bus tours. Harried by the pressure and competition of the modern urban lifestyle, people are turning to the warmth and comfort provided by the traditional faith in Kannon. Its simple but profound message of universal salvation holds great appeal to modern Japanese and will likely continue to sustain the popularity of the Chichibu pilgrimage.
In this book the pilgrimage course is divided into six itineraries, each manageable as a day walk of eight to ten miles. (Ways of getting to, from, and around Chichibu are introduced beginning on p. 17.) The use of a taxi or bus is recommended occasionally to eliminate overly long and less interesting hikes, but the true charm and significance of the pilgrimage lies in walking. The first three itineraries (Temples 1 through 25) will take you through somewhat urbanized areas in and around Chichibu City. In fair weather, you may hike in street clothes and comfortable walking shoes. The last three itineraries (Temples 26 through 34), wind through hilly terrain and require a little more advance preparation. Hiking boots and a rucksack with food, water, extra clothing, and rain gear are a good idea. You should not risk bad weather or darkness while on hiking courses.
Some pilgrims might find itineraries one through three a bit too long. However, these temples are convenient to public transportation, so itineraries may be abbreviated to one’s liking. Much of the course is fine for hiking with children, with itineraries shortened accordingly. Temples 1 through 4, 20 through 23, 26 through 28, or 31 or 32 individually, would make shorter and more manageable day trips. Although directions from temple to temple have been written as carefully as possible, everything changes—paths become paved roads, signs are put up and taken down, shops go out of business and new shops open. As you walk, stop occasionally to consult the maps. If you get lost, just ask. Chichibu people are friendly and will likely know what you are doing. For those who speak a little Japanese, the temple number will identify your destination: Yonban wa doko desu-ka? (Where is Temple 4?). Those who speak no Japanese can make use of the Finding List located at the back of the book. Simply point to the Japanese characters for your objective, smile, and look perplexed.
An added pleasure of the pilgrimage is collecting seals and calligraphic inscriptions at each temple as a memento of your journey. A book for collecting these, called a nōkyōchō, may be purchased at most temples, the price depending upon how fancy it is. A donation of ¥200 is expected for each temple seal and inscription. Inscription counters are generally open from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., but may close earlier in the winter. Although the central theme of this section is the pilgrimage, the description is more historical than religious, and is interspersed with anecdotes about the area and the people, as well as with many detours to places of interest unrelated to the pilgrimage, including museums, shops, restaurants, and Shinto shrines. The beginning of these detours is marked in the text with the symbol. ➩
A note on terminology: most Buddhist places of worship are called in Japanese tera, (or by alternate pronunciations of the same character, dera or ji), usually translated “temple.” Some others are called dō, meaning “hall.” Shinto places of worship are usually called jinja, translated “shrine.” In this text these terms appear as hyphenated suffixes; thus the reader will know immediately that Chichibu-jinja, or Chichibu Shrine, is a Shinto place of worship. Likewise, by convention, members of Buddhist religious orders are referred to as “monks,” while those of Shinto are referred to as “priests.” Another useful term to know is torii, the double-tiered archway that marks the entrance to Shinto shrines.
For those wishing to stay overnight, a number of ryokan (Japanese inns), minshuku (small, family-run lodgings), and hotels are available. A list of Accommodations in Chichibu, selected for convenience to pilgrimage routes and festival sites, is provided in the Appendixes. The numbers given for these facilities can be used to locate them on the maps. Reservations are recommended.
Good luck and enjoy your pilgrimage.
卍 Temples 1 through 9
Say Ichiban! (Number one!) to any taxi driver in Chichibu, and you will be whisked off to Temple 1 on the pilgrimage. (The thirty-four temples of the pilgrimage will generally be referred to by their numbers, rather than their more difficult-to-remember names). Taking a taxi to begin a religious pilgrimage might seem blasphemous, but it is certainly recommended for an easy and comfortable start. Or, you may take a bus bound for Sadamine-Minano 疋峰皆野 (towns to the northeast; from bus stand two) and get off at the village of Tochiya 栃谷. Take the fork just before the bus stop to the left and look for the green-roofed, red-painted building of Temple 1 on your left. The front entrance is on the corner ahead.
The temple’s name, SHIMABU-JI 四萬部寺, literally means Temple of Forty-Thousand Volumes, and derives from the legend of a medieval monk who supposedly read that number of sutras here at the behest of one of the legendary pioneers of the Chichibu pilgrimage. The entrance to the temple is marked by a low-roofed gate covered with senja-fuda (pilgrims’ votive cards) of wood and paper. The first Kannon hall of your pilgrimage is situated at the end of a stone-paved walkway with large stone lanterns on either side. Although not as elaborate as one might expect for the first temple on a centuries-old pilgrimage, the building, with its deep-green copper roof, is perfectly charming. Walk up and pray to the Kannon enshrined within.
The typical method of worship is to throw a coin into the offering box and ring a gong, if one is hung from the ceiling. This is to call the attention of Kannon and other deities concealed in the inner shrine. When praying to Kannon, you may wish for anything—safety during your pilgrimage, the well-being of your family, or the health of loved ones. The two most common entreaties made by Japanese on such occasions are for happiness in the family and for repose of the souls of deceased relatives. (Since this is a Buddhist temple, you should not clap your hands, a custom practiced at Shinto shrines.)
The fundamental Buddhist goal of attaining spiritual peace is very attractive to temple visitors. Japanese pilgrims thus often chant a short sutra, the Hannya shin-gyō 般若心経 (the Lesser Prajuna Paramita Hridaya Sutra). Written in approximately 265 Japanese characters, it is the essence of a several-hundred-volume sutra expounding Buddhist wisdom, and is chanted on many occasions, regardless of the sect to which the worshiper belongs. Commentaries published on this sutra continue to be steady best-sellers. However, it is perfectly all right to say nothing. The occasion merely calls for sincerity.
The Kannon hall of about thirty square meters was constructed in the late seventeenth century by a skilled Chichibu carpenter, and was modified in the mid-eighteenth century by an Edo craftsman. With intricate carvings decorating the transoms and gables, the architectural style of this temple set the standard for the other Kannon halls in Chichibu. The villagers are proud to have this temple in Tochiya and maintain it very well. They are also pleased that the large hall (to the right as you face the Kannon hall) is used for an important mass called segaki, which takes place in August (see p. l47). Next to this hall is a handsome, farmhouse-style building that serves as the living quarters for the monk and his family. A menacing devil mask can be seen on the roof, beneath which is a large tile with two characters reading ichiban. The building was originally designed
