frontier, and early menus reveal dishes like chicken croquettes, baron of beef, turkey stuffed with oysters, vermicelli with cheese à la Italian, and the ever delectable calfs brains scrambled with ranch eggs. “Mexican” food was considered too “native” for travellers and rarely appeared on upscale hotel and restaurant menus.
The railroads brought the settlers, and these pioneers brought new food crops. At first, vegetables such as tomatoes, asparagus, cabbage, carrots, lettuce, onions and peas were produced in home gardens on a small scale, but when extensive irrigation facilities were constructed in the early twentieth century, commercial vegetable production began.
During the years following World War I, Santa Fe began to emerge from obscurity as the city-and the rest of the state-was discovered by artists such as Peter Hurd and Georgia O’Keeffe, authors such as Willa Cather and D. H. Lawrence, and other prominent sculptors, poets, photographers and musicians. The high concentration of artists in the city, combined with Santa Fe’s tradition as an Indian trading centre, produced one of the top art markets in the world. More than 150 galleries (concentrated around the Plaza and along Canyon Road) now feature local as well as international artists, and special events such as Indian Market in mid-August ensure that the ancient artistic traditions are kept alive.
A parade in downtown Santa Fe circa 1932. The large building on the left is La Fonda hotel, built in 1922 and still standing in the same spot today.
In the decades after World War I, the cuisines of Santa Fe, however, remained fairly segregated: an Indian-Hispanic hybrid cuisine served in the pueblos; hotels offered mostly standard meat and potatoes eastern-style; and the traditional New Mexican chilli-based cuisine was served in Hispanic houses and restaurants. But major culinary changes would occur as Santa Fe became one of the top ten tourist destinations in the country.
Celebrations and Festivals
The many feasts of life in Santa Fe each
seem to have their own celebratory foods
Santa Feans love to party, and the entire year seems to revolve around the many fiestas-one after another. Even calling these celebrations markets doesn’t prevent people from partying.
Spanish Market, held during the last weekend in July for more than 45 years, showcases the arts and crafts of New Mexico’s Hispanic artisans. There is the Traditional Spanish Market, held on the Plaza, and the Contemporary Spanish Market, held in the courtyard of the Palace of the Governors. The crafts sold include santos (carved wooden saints), tinwork, embroidery, jewellery, weaving and handmade furniture.
Indian Market, held around the Plaza during a weekend in mid-August for more than 75 years, is probably the finest single show of Indian arts and crafts in the United States. Collectors travel from all over the world to this event, which features only Indian-made arts and crafts. As with Spanish Market, numerous food booths featuring the local street fare of tacos, tostadas and burritos are also set up.
A young Hopi boy in the traditional costume of the koshare, or clown, during Santa Fe’s Indian Market. At Hopi feast days children often dress as koshares and cause mischief
The Santa Fe Wine and Chilli Festival is held in mid-September, and the events take place in various restaurants and cooking schools. A grand tasting is held in a tent in the parking lot of a downtown hotel and features traditional and innovative food prepared by Santa Fe’s best restaurants, and wines from New Mexico, Texas and California wineries.
One of the largest celebrations in Santa Fe is Fiesta de Santa Fe, which was established in 1712 by Don Diego de Vargas to commemorate the reoccupation of New Mexico by the Spanish. It begins the Friday after Labour Day in Fort Marcy Park with the burning of Zozobra, a 12-metre-high effigy representing Old Man Gloom. Afterward, the party moves to the Plaza and downtown area for two more days of parades, dancing, singing, religious processions and booths filled with arts, crafts and traditional food. The best time to visit is during a feast day, for you can be sure that a ceremony or dance will take place. Of special fun are the grab or throw days. Many Native Americans are named for Catholic saints, and on each saint’s day, all pueblo members with that name go up on the roof and throw something down to the crowd that travels from house to house. Sweets such as chocolate, apples, prizes or even small plastic rubbish bins are among the items that get thrown. Historically, water would be flung from gourds to encourage rain, and although it is still done, children seem to prefer water balloons to gourds! You may get wet, but you’ll have a good time.
During the feast days at the Indian pueblos, tourists are welcome during most of the ceremonies and dances and may even be invited to join in. However, there is a definite etiquette to be observed. Enter a home by invitation only, and if invited to eat (which is common) don’t refuse and don’t linger, as others will be invited to take your place. Limit your questions—asking too many will be viewed as inconsiderate. And don’t walk across the plaza or dance area, look into kivas or talk to dancers during the ceremonies; remember that these are religious shrines and activities.
It is always best to check with the tribal or tourist office before wandering into a pueblo. They can steer you to craftspeople and places of interest and inform you of the particular rules governing that pueblo. Always respect Indian traditions when you’re on their land; it is a sovereign nation, and you are subject to their laws and regulations.
At the end of August, the height of the tourist season in Santa Fe, large crowds mingle with Native American artists from all over the country at the Indian Market.
Other special events in Santa Fe include Rodeo de Santa Fe, which began in the 1940s and has steadily grown into a popular regional competition. It happens in early July, and between 300 and 500 cowboys compete in riding, roping and racing events. The Santa Fe Festival of the Arts is held in October, and history buffs will enjoy the Mountain Man Rendezvous and Buffalo Roast held in mid-August on the Plaza.
The Christmas season in New Mexico always brings its distinctive sights, aromas and tastes. The traditional colours of the season are evident in the red and green New Mexican chillies; the aroma of burning piñon pine permeates the air. The Spanish brought Christmas to the Southwest about 400 years ago, but the Pueblo Indians were already celebrating this time of the year with a number of feast days. After the harvest was stored for the winter, dances were performed both to give thanks for the bounty and to apologise for the necessity of having to hunt for winter food. These traditions continue to this day.
La Entrada, a reenactment of the reconquest of Santa Fe by Don Diego de Vargas after the Pueblo Indians revolted against the Spanish, is a popular spectacle during the Fiesta de Santa Fe, which has been celebrated since 1712.
Probably no other image symbolises the Christmas season in New Mexico more than the luminarias that line walkways and outline buildings and houses throughout the state. Originally, little crisscross fires of piñon wood were lit on Christmas Eve to light the Christ child’s way. With the advent of the square-bottomed brown paper bag, the bonfires were replaced with a votive candle anchored in sand in the bag—and the farolito (little lantern) was bom. Whether called luminarias or farolitos, they are traditionally lit only on December 24, la noche buena; and with most electric lights turned off, they weave a quiet, soft spell.
Many of the tastes of the season are prepared from recipes handed down from generation to generation. These recipes
