Index
Tourists in old Kyoto
Introducing Kyoto
The Capital of Japan for 1,000 Years and Still Its Cultural Heartland
Kyoto was the imperial capital of Japan for over 1,000 years and it is still known as the heartland of the country’s traditions and aesthetics. A small city compared to Tokyo, it nonetheless attracts tens of millions of visitors a year. Along with the nearby city of Nara, Japan’s capital in even more ancient times, Kyoto is the timeless yin to Tokyo’s hectic, hyper-urban yang. Its narrow alleys, temples and cultural treasures provide the ideal counterpoint to cyber-cute “Cool Japan” and make the city an essential destination for overseas travelers seeking a full experience of the country.
About This Book
The public transportation system is another aspect of Kyoto that makes it radically different from the Tokyo region. While Tokyo boasts the most extensive and efficient transit network in the world, Kyoto had no subways at all until 30 years ago, and even now has only two subway lines. The grid layout of the city is not a strategy to facilitate modern commerce, like in New York, but a preservation of the original 8th-century town plan modeled on those of T’ang Dynasty China. Labyrinthine underground passages and snarls of elevated roads, features of most Japanese cities, are pleasantly absent, but so is the convenience of zooming from anywhere to anywhere on assorted subways, railways and highways. Getting around smoothly is a matter of knowing the basic layout of the city, navigating the bus network, walking or taking cabs to closer destinations and, at times, a larger helping of patience than Japan’s more contemporary cities require.
Even here, public transportation is much more dependable and punctual than in most parts of the world and it is not necessary to speak Japanese. However, your visit will be much more enriching and enjoyable if you know where to go, the best way to get there and the quickest way back. This pocket atlas and transportation guide provides all the information you need in order to navigate Kyoto as well as Nara and other nearby attractions. It starts with getting to Kyoto on an international or domestic flight or by ground transportation; continues with a look at the various areas of Kyoto, what to see there and how to get there and get around; explores the benefits and drawbacks of the many transport options, and gives all the inside information, tips and know-how you need to navigate the system properly, along with extensive route maps, schematic diagrams and area maps. In addition to the more common modes of transport, there are explanations of lesser-known possibilities like hiring a sightseeing taxi or renting a bicycle for the day.
Kyoto and Beyond
Those who are staying for more than a couple of days in Kyoto will want to consider taking a day trip or two outside the city. In addition to the historic city of Nara, there are the mountains that encircle Kyoto; scenic Lake Biwa, the largest lake in Japan; and rustic, romantic villages in the region that are surprisingly easy to reach. Details of these getaways are included in the book along with a full range of maps.
Thanks to all the comfortable and reliable transport options and the fascinating roadside and rail-side scenery, getting around can be half the fun on a trip to Japan as long as you have the necessary information at your fingertips. Enjoy the journey.
Part 1: GETTING TO KYOTO
Arriving in Kyoto by Air and by Train and Getting to Kyoto from the Airports
Kyoto is not a large city and most travelers enter it via the same portal, Kyoto Station, in the south-central area of the city, south of the Imperial Palace. From here, a variety of buses, trains and taxis can take you to your final destination. If you’re just arriving in Japan, you must first get to Kyoto from the airport, which is a fair distance away. This section of the book covers arrival at the airport, transport from the airport to Kyoto Station, and how to reach your accommodations from the station.
If arriving in Kyoto from elsewhere in Japan, you will also most likely arrive at Kyoto Station, but even from other major train or bus stations the same basic rules apply: municipal buses and taxis are the main modes of transport. Buses are much cheaper but more confusing and time-consuming, whereas taxis are pricier but much more convenient, especially for those with lots of luggage. Subways or commuter trains might also be a good option, depending on where you’re going.
Arriving at Kansai International Airport
Kansai International Airport (Kansai Airport for short) is the main international airport serving the Kansai region, which includes Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe and Nara. Located about 80 km (about 50 miles) south of Kyoto, it’s a newer, sparkling clean and orderly airport that makes a pleasant introduction to Japan.
However, for a major international flight hub, Kansai Airport is served by relatively few airlines and some travelers’ itineraries will have them flying to another city such as Tokyo and transferring to a brief domestic flight to Osaka Itami Airport instead. Officially known as Osaka International Airport, it’s nonetheless domestic and smaller than Kansai. At about 40 km (about 25 miles) away, Itami is the closest airport to Kyoto. Recently constructed Kobe Airport, the third airport serving the Kansai region, is a smaller domestic airport that’s also within reasonable distance of Kyoto although it primarily serves the city of Kobe.
After Kansai, the nearest major international airport is Central Japan International Airport (Centrair) in Nagoya, about 110 km (about 70 miles) to the east. Though not much farther distance-wise from Kyoto than Kansai International Airport, Centrair primarily serves the Chubu region of Japan centered on Nagoya and doesn’t offer very convenient access to Kyoto.
At just about any Japanese airport, visitors arriving for the first time will be impressed by the cleanliness, courtesy and efficiency. Japanese airports regularly earn high marks in world airport rankings, and in the 2009 Skytrax World Airport Awards, Kansai Airport earned the top prize in the category “Cleanest Airport Washrooms”!
Getting to Kyoto from Kansai Airport
From Kansai Airport, there are a number of ways to reach Kyoto.
Limousine buses leave from in front of the passenger terminal building, take 90–120 minutes and cost ¥2,500 per adult (¥4,000 for a round-trip ticket), children half price. Buses run every 45 minutes or so and arrive at the Hachijo East entrance on the southeast corner of Kyoto Station. The advantage of the limousine bus is that it’s easy to use. Simply buy a ticket from a machine outside the passenger terminal just steps away from customs, wait in line for the bus, turn over your luggage to an attendant and receive a claim stub, and give your ticket to the driver when you get on. The disadvantages are that it can take a while if there’s traffic, and leaves you at Kyoto Station where you will then have to reach your accommodations by other means.
Trains take less time than buses and are more predictable as they nearly always run strictly on time and are not affected by traffic. The JR (Japan Rail) Haruka rapid express takes about 75 minutes to reach Kyoto Station, costs about ¥3,000 and departs every half hour or so from Kansai Airport Station, directly connected to the airport. (Follow the signs or ask at an information counter.) It might be a more pleasant ride than the bus but it’s a bit more expensive and you will have to handle your own luggage.
There are also other JR Kansai Airport Rapid Service trains to Osaka or Kyobashi stations in Osaka from which you can transfer to other trains that might put you closer to your accommodations than Haruka does (see train map, pages 12–13). These are advised only for travelers who have some experience of the Japanese
