Cambodian Cooking. Joannes Riviere
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Eggplants used in Asia are generally of the slender, purple-skinned variety, 15–20 cm (6–8 in) long. They are mild and need not be salted before use.
Fish paste, or prahok, is one of the most distinctive ingredients in Cambodian cooking. It is fish that has been preserved in salt until it breaks down into a paste. It has a very strong cheese-like smell that many Westerners find unappetizing, but it undoubtedly adds a depth of flavor to Cambodian food. Prahok is available in Asian grocery stores and can always be replaced by its Thai equivalent (nam prik pha), the Laotian equivalent (padek) or by dried shrimp paste (belachan).
Fish sauce, known as teuk trey, is a thin, salty sauce that is made with the juice that is leftover from preparing prahok. It looks like soy sauce, but has a very strong smell. Fish sauce is available in supermarkets and in Asian groceries and its Vietnamese (nuoc mam) or Thai (nam pla) equivalents can be substituted.
Galangal is also known in English as Thai Ginger and as rumdeng in Cambodia. A cream-colored white root with a distinct flavor that is used to flavor curry pastes and soups. Galangal is very fibrous and therefore must be sliced very fine, cross-wise, before using. It is available in Asian grocery stores and in some supermarkets. It will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator and it also freezes well, either whole or chopped.
Green mangoes In Cambodia, the mango season only lasts just one month. The man-goes are usually not left to ripen, but are used when still green, either in a salad or sprinkled with salt and chili.They can also be used to tenderize meat. Green mangoes can be puchased in Asian and Indian markets, and sometimes supermarkets.
Green peppercorns These perishable peppercorns are available packed in brine or water in jars or freeze-dried. The green peppercorn is the soft unripe berry, and is less pungent than the riper black and white peppercorns.
Jicama, known in Cambodian as pek koa and in much of the rest of Southeast Asia as bengkuang, is a root vegetable with milky white flesh. In Cambodia, it is eaten on its own, in salads, or with a mixture of salt, sugar and chili peppers. The larger specimens are sometimes used to make a stock or soup. Jicama is found in most supermarkets but can be substituted with a mild variety of apple, such as Golden Delicious.
Kaffir lime leaves are known as kroy saoch in Cambodia. They are dark green and glossy and are used very much like bay leaves are used in Western cooking. Kaffir lime leaves are added to curries or, the central vein is removed and the leaves are sliced very finely and added to salads and stir-fries where they contribute wonderful fragrance, interesting texture and vivid color. Fresh, frozen and dried leaves are available in Asian grocery stores.They will last for several months in the freezer. If you can’t find fresh leaves, you can use dried for stews, soups and other long-cooking dishes, though you should use twice as many dried leaves and remove the whole leaves before serving.You can also substitute lemongrass, but the flavor will not be quite the same.
Krachai, also known as Chinese keys or lesser ginger, is an unusual rhizome which looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. it is known as kchiey in Cambodian and is specific to Cambodian cooking and its aroma is sometimes compared to lavender. It is often used in curry pastes and gives Amok, a classic Khmer dish, its very special flavor.
Lemongrass, known as slok krey in Cambodia, is a fibrous stalk with a white bulb at the root end and flat leaves at the top. The tough outer layers are usually removed and the tender white stalk is chopped or sliced and used in curry pastes, marinades and soups. The leaves can be used to make lemon-flavored tea. Lemongrass is available in some supermarkets and in Asian grocery stores. It keeps well in the refrigerator or it can be frozen (either whole or chopped).
Oyster mushrooms are fan-shaped mushrooms that are usually white or grayish-brown in color. They grow in clusters and are sometimes known as abalone mushrooms.
Palm sugar is known as skoa tnaot in Cambodia. It has a rich caramel flavor that is more complex than that of cane sugar. Palm sugar is made from the sap of the sugar palm tree (Arenga Pinnata). The sap is reduced to a syrup which is then dehydrated. Palm sugar is available in Asian grocery stores or health food stores. For an authentic preparation, bring the sugar to a boil with a little water to make a thick syrup very like the fresh alternative. You can substitute dark brown sugar, but only use half the quantity that the recipe calls for. You can also substitute maple syrup, although you will need to double the quantity that the recipe calls for.
Pomelo is a citrus somewhat similar to grapefruit. It has greenish-yellow skin and pink flesh. The pomelo is drier, sweeter and has a much thicker and tougher peel. It is eaten as a fruit or broken up for salads. Grapefruit may be used as a substitute.
Pork belly is a fresh cut of meat that comes from the underside of the pig. The same cut is used to make American bacon. It can be purchased at Asian markets or as a special order at a butchershop or meat counter.
Rice flour is made from ground long grain rice and is used to make dough and batter, mainly for desserts. Fresh rice flour was traditionally made by soaking rice overnight and grinding it slowly in a stone mill. The same result may be achieved by grinding soaked rice in a blender. Dried rice flour is available in natural foods and Asian specialty shops.
Rice paddy herb, known as mô am in Cambodia and rau om in Vietnam, has a pungent aroma and is used exclusively in soups, especially Cambodian Sour Soup. It is available in most Asian grocery stores and will keep for a few days in the fridge. Coriander can be used as a substitute.
Sawtooth herb is also known as Mexican Coriander and as chi ana in Cambodia and ngo gai in Vietnam. Its leaves are long, with a serrated edge and its flavor and aroma is reminiscent of ordinary coriander, but stronger. The fresh leaves are used very often in Cambodian cooking, usually added to soups at the end of cooking or to salads. Sawtooth herb can be found in Asian grocery stores and will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week. Substitute fresh coriander leaves.
Star anise, known as pka tian in Cambodia, is a dried spice that looks like an eight-pointed brown star. Each point contains a shiny seed with the specific smell that belongs to this spice. Star anise is one of the ingredients for Khmer curry, as well as certain soups, and can be found quite easily on supermarket shelves.
Tamarind, is known as ampeul in Cambodia. The tamarind pod is light brown in color and can be quite long—up to 8 in (20 cm). The pod contains sour pulp and hard, shiny seeds. In Cambodia, tamarind is often eaten green (unripe) with a salt and