becoming a pest, make sure the roots of the running types are contained within a concrete or metal barrier at least 2 feet deep, or plant it in containers.
New shoots of the clumping bamboos usually appear in summer or fall, the running types in spring. Harvest the large shoots just as they emerge by freeing them from soil and, with a sturdy, sharp knife, cut off the top 6 to 8 inches. (If you make 6-inch mounds of soil around the base of the plant before the shoots emerge, they will be easier to harvest and the shoots will be longer.) The more slender species, generally referred to as summer bamboos, produce shoots 1-2 inches wide. These can be allowed to grow to a height of 12 inches before being harvested at ground level. In all cases, do not harvest all the shoots; the plants need to renew themselves.
Giant bamboo shoots, peeled (above), and how to cut the small-diameter shoots (below)
Varieties
In this case, the term varieties refers to the species described in the following list. All bamboos produce shoots; a few specially recommended ones are listed below.
Upper Bank Nurseries and Bamboo Sourcery offer many types, including some of the species recommended below. Bamboos are often available locally as well.
Bambusa beecheyana (Beecheyana Bamboo): clumping type; 15 feet tall; stems 4 inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 9; graceful form
Bambusa glaucescens (Hedge Bamboo): clumping type; 20 feet tall; 1½ inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 8
Phyllostachys aurea (Golden Bamboo): running type; 15 feet tall; stems 2 inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 7
P. dulce (Sweet Shoot): running type; 30 feet tall; stems 2½ inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 8; considered the sweetest shoots
P. nuda: running type; 35 feet tall; stems 1½ inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 5, among the hardiest types
P. heterocycla pubescens (P. edulis) (Moso): running type; 50 feet tall; stems 6 inches wide; hardy to USDA Zone 7
How to prepare: For the large, thick bamboo shoots, cut a ring around the outside of the bottom of the shoot with a knife and peel the first outer layer to expose the white flesh; repeat this procedure for a dozen or so layers until all the brown leaves are removed and the shoot is white. Then, as you would with asparagus, if the base is tough, remove that as well. Cut the shoot in very thin slices.
The small-diameter shoots must also be peeled; in this case, remove the outer layer between each joint, one joint at a time. Slice the shoots in rings and discard the woody joints.
If the shoots are sweet (which is the exception), they can be eaten raw in salads. However, most shoots are fairly tough and have a bitter taste that must be removed by parboiling for 20 minutes. Change the water after the first 10 minutes and drain the shoots when you are done parboiling. Taste the shoots and, if they are still bitter, repeat the process. After parboiling, the slices can be used in any recipe calling for bamboo shoots or frozen in plastic freezer bags.
To serve immediately, cook until tender. The most popular use of bam boo is in stir-fried dishes. Bamboo shoots are most popular in northern China, where they are used in soups, stews, dumplings, noodle and meat dishes, meat and vegetable stir-fries, and, often, with mushrooms or pickled mustard (see recipe, page 65). For example, bamboo is used in gai lon with barbecued pork (see recipe, page 72), spring rolls with Chinese chives and shredded pork, and Thai beef with bamboo shoots. In Japan, fresh bamboo shoots are occasionally grilled on skewers and glazed with soy sauce or miso, or used in braised vegetable dishes. Of course, they can be used in any recipe calling for canned shoots.
BASILS
THAI BASIL
Ocimum basilicum
Thai: bai horapa; Vietnamese: rau que
LEMON BASIL
O. citriodorum
Thai: bai manglak
HOLY BASIL
O. sanctum
Hindi: tulsi; Thai: bai gaprow
‘Siam Queen’ (above); Holy basil (left); Lemon basil (right)
Three Asian basils are prominent ingredients in the cuisines of Southeast Asia. Red-stemmed Thai basil is relatively similar in taste and appearance to Italian sweet basil, but with an anise flavor. Small-leafed lemon basil has a delicate citrus scent and taste. Purple-tinged holy basil, with slightly serrated leaves, has a strong scent of cloves and a musky taste. Holy basil is so named because it is sacred to the Hindu gods and is found planted near temples and homes in India.
How to grow: Basils are annuals that glory in hot weather and wither in the frost. Gardeners in cool-summer areas struggle to keep them going. Choose a well-drained area of the garden in full sun or light shade, and with fertile organic soil.
You can start basil seeds inside a month before planting them out, or purchase them as transplants from specialty nurseries in the spring. Basil put out in the garden before the weather is warm suffers badly. Space seedlings 1 foot apart. Keep the plants fairly moist during the growing season. Feed basil with fish emulsion every 6 weeks and after a large harvest.
Harvest basil leaves about 80 days from sowing by picking or cutting. Keep the flower heads continually cut back or the plant will go to seed.
Varieties
Seeds of Thai, lemon, and holy basil can be purchased from the herb catalogs listed in Resources. ‘Siam Queen’ is a new variety of Thai basil that is compact and tasty.
How to prepare: Thai basil is excellent in Southeast Asian curries of vegetables, chicken, and game (see recipe, page 86). Both Thai basil and lemon basil are excellent for flavoring soups and added fresh to salads. The seeds of lemon basil are used in sweet drinks and mixed with coconut milk to make a dessert. Soaked in drinks, these seeds become slippery, yet crunchy. In Vietnam and Thailand, lemon and Thai basils are combined on a platter with fresh mints, Vietnamese coriander or cilantro, and lettuce to put in spring rolls, which are served with a spicy dip (see recipe, page 78.)
Holy basil is almost always used in noodle dishes paired with chicken or shellfish. Use this basil according to taste, for its flavor intensifies in cooking.
BEANS
ADZUKI (RED BEAN)
Vigna angularis
Mandarin: hong xiao dou, chi dou; Japanese: azuki
MUNG (GREEN BEAN)
V. radiata
Chinese: look dow
SOY (SOYA BEAN, SOYBEAN)
Glycine max
Mandarin: da dou; Cantonese: tai tau, wong tau, hak tau; Japanese: daizu, eda mame
