The entrance to Koto-in
After Ryoan-ji, Kinkaku-ji and Daitokuji (if you do them all), you could be forgiven for being “templed out”. Nearby Nishijin, Kyoto’s historic textile center, is a nice change of scene. About one kilometer south of Daitoku-ji, a good place to start exploring Nishijin is at the Nishijin Textile Center (www.nishijin.or.jp), which as well as having fabrics on display and hosting weaving demonstrations, has almost hourly kimono shows and (at a cost) the opportunity to have a go at weaving and try on kimono. Yes, it is touristy, but it is still a fun introduction to Nishijin’s 1,000-year fabric history, and they also have quite a lot of kimono and other fabrics on sale. Away from the textile center the Nishijin district itself is a pleasant place to walk around, with the area’s old machiya houses often providing an atmospheric old location to stop for something to eat or drink—places like the former bathhouse turned cafe Sarasa Nishijin (sarasan2.exblog.jp; noon–11 p.m.; closed Wed; about 500m/1,640 ft south of Daitokuji).
Matcha green tea served with a sweet
There are also places to get a less touristy look at Nishijin’s textiles. Orinasukan (Tues to Sun, 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; ¥500) is a lovely little museum focused on Nishijin textiles that is housed in an old textile workshop, and across the road there is a small gallery (Susamei-sha) that exhibits a beautiful collection of kimono. Also in the area is the Urasenke Chado Research Center (www.urasenke.or.jp), the nation’s largest tea ceremony school, which has good exhibitions on the tea ceremony and such things as tea ceremony utensils.
Just be noted that it’s not the kind of place you can pop into for a one-off tea ceremony experience in English; for that, have a look at page 78 (Best Cultural Experiences) in Chapter 3, where we’ve listed a few of the best teahouses that offer easily accessible tea ceremony classes and experiences.
Main sights The Zen garden at Ryoan-ji, the gilded Kinkaku-ji, the gardens at the Daitoku-ji temple complex, and the Nishijin Textile Center. Time Required At least half a day and it is best to start early to avoid the crowds. Getting There Start at Ryoan-ji, which is served by bus #59 (Ryoan-ji mae bus stop) and #55 or #50 (both Ritsumeikan Daigaku-mae bus stop; 7-minute walk). Where to Eat Wait until you are in the Daitoku-ji and Nishijin areas, as there are quite a few nice cafes and restaurants there that are housed in traditional buildings. Insider Tip For a bit of variety, this part of Kyoto is also home to the kitschy Eigamura (page 75), the theme park run by the TOEI movie studios. Some 200 films and TV shows are shot each year in the Edo era-themed sets here, so you might see some movie action while strolling around (in Edo-era costumes if the urge takes you). Whether there is filming going on or not, the daily ninja shows are very over-the-top and well worth watching.
Kimono fashion at the Nishijin Textile Center
SOUTHEASTERN KYOTO
Exploring Kyoto’s atmospheric backstreets from Kiyomizu to Chion-in
See pull-out map L10–L9; Q16
The southern Higashiyama area of Kyoto, located east of central Kyoto over the Kamogawa River and with wooded hills lining its eastern side, is packed with attractions all within easy walking distance of each other, from the World Heritage-designated Kiyomizu Temple and the lanes full of old stores that lead off it, to the historic Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park and Chion-in Temple.
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