breed. The problems mentioned are in the breed and a buyer should be aware of them. These diseases are rare and only turn up on the rare occasion. Do not be turned away from the breed but do be aware that if the breeder of your puppy is reputable and aware of these problems, he will be doing his utmost to keep them out of his line.
Williams Haynes wrote in 1925, “The terrier owner is a ‘lucky devil’ for his dogs do not, as a rule, spend a great deal of time in the hospital. All members of the terrier family, from the giant of the race, the Airedale, way down to little Scottie, owe a big debt to Nature for having blessed them with remarkably robust constitutions. Even when really sick, they make wonderfully rapid recoveries.”
While not all Cairns are obedience and agility performers, all Cairns welcome a game of fetch with their favorite chew device. Do not use a small ball that can be accidentally swallowed.
Each breed approved by the American Kennel Club has a standard that provides a mental picture of what the specific breed should look like. All reputable breeders strive to produce animals that will meet the requirements of the standard. Many breeds were developed for a specific purpose, e.g., hunting, retrieving, going to ground, coursing, guarding and herding. The terriers were all bred to go to ground and to pursue vermin. In addition to having dogs that look like proper Cairn Terriers, the standard assures that the Cairn will have the personality, disposition and intelligence that are sought after in the breed.
SCOTCH TERRIERS
The dogs originally known as Scotch terriers include the Cairn, Scottish and Westie. The Scottish Terrier is a heavy-boned, muscular dog whose colors are black, brindle and wheaten. He has a long muzzle and a longer ear compared to the West Highland White or the Cairn Terrier. The Westie is much lighter in weight and bone than the Scottie, he has a shorter, broad muzzle and his ears are smaller than a Scottie’s. His color is white. The Westie is some sturdier than the Cairn, broader in skull and wider in ear carriage. The Cairn has a profuse harsh outer coat with a soft, close undercoat. His coat is shown in a neatened condition rather than in a tailored jacket as are the Scottie and Westie coats.
Standards were originally written by experts who had a love and a concern for the breed. They knew that the essential characteristics of the Cairn Terrier were unlike those of any other breed and that care must be taken that these characteristics were maintained through the generations.
As time progressed and breeders became more aware that certain areas of the dog needed a better description or more definition, breeders would meet together and work out a new standard. However, standards for any breed are never changed on a whim and serious study and exchange between breeders takes place before any move is made. The Cairn Terrier Club of America is responsible for any alteration to the standard, which are then approved by the membership and sent to the American Kennel Club.
THE AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB STANDARD FOR THE CAIRN TERRIER
General Appearance: That of an active, game, hardy, small working terrier of the short-legged class; very free in its movements, strongly but not heavily built, standing well forward on its forelegs, deep in the ribs, well coupled with strong hindquarters and presenting a well-proportioned build with a medium length of back, having a hard, weather-resisting coat; head shorter and wider than any other terrier and well furnished with hair giving a general foxy expression.
Head: Skull Broad in proportion to length with a decided stop and well furnished with hair on the top of the head, which may be somewhat softer than the body coat. Muzzle Strong but not too long or heavy. Teeth Large, mouth neither overshot nor undershot. Nose Black. Eyes Set wide apart, rather sunken, with shaggy eyebrows, medium in size, hazel or dark hazel in color, depending on body color, with a keen terrier expression. Ears Small, pointed, well carried erectly, set wide apart on the side of the head. Free from long hairs.
Incorrect muzzle—too long.
Correct muzzle.
Incorrect head and ear set. Head is too thin and ears are too close together.
Correct head.
Tail: In proportion to head, well furnished with hair but not feathery. Carried gaily but must not curl over back. Set on at back level.
Body: Well-muscled, strong, active body with well-sprung, deep ribs, coupled to strong hindquarters, with a level back of medium length, giving an impression of strength and activity without heaviness.
Correct tail.
Incorrect tail, due to curl.
Incorrect tail, due to high set and feathering.
Shoulders, Legs and Feet: A sloping shoulder, medium length of leg, good but not too heavy bone; forelegs should not be out at elbows, and be perfectly straight, but forefeet may be slightly turned out. Forefeet larger than hind feet. Legs must be covered with hard hair. Pads should be thick and strong and dog should stand well up on its feet.
Correct back.
Over-angulated stifle and roach back.
Coat: Hard and weather-resistant. Must be double-coated with profuse harsh outer coat and short, soft, close furry undercoat.
Color: May be of any color except white. Dark ears, muzzle and tail tip are desirable.
Ideal Size: Involves the weight, the height at the withers and the length of body. Weight for bitches, 13 pounds; for dogs, 14 pounds. Height at the withers: bitches, 9.5 inches; dogs, 10 inches. Length of body from 14.25 to 15 inches from the front of the chest to back of hindquarters. The dog must be of balanced proportions and appear neither leggy nor too low to ground; and neither too short nor too long in body. Weight and measurements are for matured dogs at two years of age. Older dogs may weigh
