to the body. Particular emphasis should be placed on the sloping shoulder.
Forelegs: Clean, muscular, refined bone. Perfectly straight when viewed from the front. The length of leg should be approximately the same from the point of elbow (tip of the ulna) to the ground as is the distance from the withers to the base of the rib cage. Preference towards longer, rather than shorter, forelegs. The pastern should show a slight angle with the forearm when viewed from side.
Front Feet: Round, strong, deep in pad, with flexible well-arched toes. Strong short nails to allow the dog to adapt to differing ground surfaces.
Body: The chest should be deep, rather than wide; ribs well sprung (not barrel-ribbed) with a topline showing a rise at the withers (to allow sufficient action of the forequarters). Strong and well-muscled loins, sloping to the butt of the tail.
Length to Height Ratio: 10:9. The body, measured from the point of the breast bone in a straight line to the buttocks, should be greater than the height at the withers, as 10 units is to 9 units (e.g., a dog 18 inches in height should measure 20 inches in length).
Chest: When viewed from the side, should be deep, the point of breast bone showing ahead of the junction between shoulder blade (scapula) and upper arm (humerus). The bottom line of the rib cage should curve downwards from its point to below and slightly in front of the elbow (tip of the ulna), then remain level to the eighth rib before continuing in a gradual upwards curve towards the flank.
Hindquarters: Should show breadth and strength with the rump rather long and sloping. The upper thigh (femur) is well set into the hip socket at the pelvis at a corresponding angle to the shoulder blade. When viewed from the side, the overall upper line of the rump and tail should form a smooth curve when the dog is standing at rest. The stifles (junction of femur with tibia and fibula) are well turned (angled). The hocks are fairly well let down and placed parallel with the body when viewed from behind.
Hind Feet: Slightly elongated in comparison with the front feet. Strong, deep in the pads, with flexible well-arched toes. Strong, short nails to allow the dog maximum thrust under differing ground surfaces.
Tail: When viewed from the side the butt of the tail should be well let down. During inactivity, the tail should hang in a slight curve reaching the hock. Longer rather than shorter tail is desirable.
Size: Classified as a medium-sized dog. Height to length ratio of 9:10.
Coat: Moderately short, flat, straight and weather-resisting outer coat, with or without a short dense undercoat. Hair should be short on the head, ears, feet and legs. Coat can be slightly longer at the neck and rear of the thighs, and on the underside of the tail to form a brush.
Color: Any color and markings historically associated with the development of the breed. For example: black with or without tan; blue (gray) ranging from dark to light, with or without tan; red ranging from chocolate to light red, with or without tan; fawn ranging from dark to light, with or without tan; tan ranging from dark to cream. Tan markings range from dark tan to cream and are present in varying amounts.
UNDESIRABLE TRAITS IN PROFILE
Upright shoulders, flat-footed, too short-bodied, high on leg, lacking bone.
Low on leg, long back, short neck, knuckled over in front, soft topline.
Generally lacking substance, ewenecked, weak pasterns, upright shoulders, lacking proper angle in the rear, ring tail.
Loaded upright shoulders, short neck, toeing out in front, high in the rear, cow-hocked, kinked tail.
This small puppy will grow into an intelligent and independent working dog. Are you ready for the challenges of Kelpie ownership?
Before you begin your search for a puppy, you must research the Kelpie thoroughly and be sure that this is the most suitable breed for you, your family, your lifestyle and your living environment. While you must like the breed’s characteristics, you must also be certain that you can provide for the breed’s requirements. With the Kelpie, a major concern is that you can provide adequate space and time for the dog to exercise and play. This is a working breed and, although you may be keeping your Kelpie simply as a companion dog, you must always ensure that he has more than enough “work” to do in order for him to be happy, well-behaved and mentally sound.
In the case of the Kelpie, researching and reading up on the breed is not enough. Before deciding that this is the breed for you, breeders strongly recommend that you meet, observe and interact with some representatives of the breed. Visit a ranch or a stockdog trial to see these dogs in action and to get an idea of what they really are about. Once you see this intense working dog doing what he does best, you will understand why Kelpie breeders are not eager to sell to pet homes, and you will also understand the true character of the breed. A potential owner who does not grasp the intensity of the Kelpie’s drive to work will be very unhappy trying to live with one.
Puppies of any breed need lots of attention during the growing stage. They need to eat frequently and relieve themselves often. Furthermore, they chew on everything they can get their teeth into. Your puppy must be housebroken and taught good manners for a successful existence within the family group. He will bond easily with you, his new owners, to become a life partner with those who demonstrate concern for his happiness and well-being. As the dog matures, that bond helps create the dog’s devotion to his family and regard for their safety.
A pet owner must be aware of the Kelpie’s adolescent period, which usually starts around eight months of age and can last up to around two years of age. Kelpies are hard to live with in a pet setting during this time if the owners are not completely prepared to provide the Kelpie with the work, training, exercise and interaction that he requires. This stage is not as problematic for the owner of a working Kelpie but can be overwhelming for the pet owner and often causes unprepared pet owners to give these dogs up for adoption at this age. Again, plenty of exercise and activity that uses the dog’s body and brain is absolutely necessary at all stages of the Kelpie’s life and even more so at this stage.
Do you have time to spend with your Kelpie, doing things together to keep his body and mind active?
If you feel that you and the Kelpie are a good match but would prefer an adult dog, a mature dog is sometimes available for sale or adoption. Situations include death of an owner, a family that must move and cannot take the dog with them or a former brood bitch who is being retired from having puppies and must be placed in a private home as a family pet. Situations also arise in which pet owners simply were not prepared for the Kelpie’s needs
