A small water pump carries water from the water section over and through the gravel section of this shoreline vivarium. Sponge filters are powered by aquarium air pumps and are ideal for shoreline vivaria and smaller aquaria.
Lighting
For aquarium illumination and plant health, use two fluorescent bulbs running the length of the tank. For species that tolerate higher temperatures, such as floating frogs and clawed frogs, use incandescent lighting. I have had success growing certain aquatic plants (such as Sagittaria spp., Cryptocoryne spp., elodea, Java moss, Java fern, and horn-wort) using a single 20-watt halogen bulb in small 2-gallon tanks housing dwarf underwater frogs and floating frogs.
Heating
Most of the species in this book do well at cool to moderate room temperatures, so additional heating is not required. Some exceptions are floating frogs and clawed frogs, which prefer higher temperatures (in the upper 70s° F).
In setups using incandescent or halogen bulbs, the heat generated by these bulbs is usually enough to maintain desired temperatures. If not, try submersible aquarium heaters with built-in thermostatic controls, available in a range of wattage and sizes. Estimate approximately 5 watts per gallon.
Aging
Everyone working with planted aquaria finds that there is an aging cycle. Initially, problems are common because biological cycles have not yet been established. It takes three to six weeks for conditions to stabilize. This time frame allows nitrifying bacteria to build up to high enough levels that ammonia and nitrites are broken down. It also takes at least six weeks for plants to establish by anchoring into the substrate and increasing root mass and body mass. Once they spread their roots and achieve a certain density, aquatic plants effectively take nutrients from the water, limiting food available for algae.
A ventral view of a floating frog shows the tubercled and intricately textured belly.
After this biological balance sets in, the tank takes a sudden turn. The water suddenly becomes clearer and the algae level starts to drop. A key to balancing a planted aquarium is the number of plants. As an example, I originally had two axolotls, a Hong Kong fire-bellied newt, and various fish in a 29-gallon, sparsely planted tank, and it worked well for two years. I added two axolotls, and in time, the plants, the inner surfaces of the tank, and the substrate became covered with algae. Determined to solve the problem biologically, I removed one axolotl, which led to a slight improvement—slowed growth of algae—but the problem persisted. I doubled the number of plants in the setup. Within a few weeks, the algae cleared and the tank was in equilibrium. The same pattern occurred with my tanks of paddle-tailed newts. I had a chronic problem with algae until I added plants and a couple of American flag fish, a species that is very effective at controlling hair algae.
Maintenance
The secret to a long-term successful aquarium is regular maintenance with a weekly to biweekly water change—probably the single most important procedure. Water changes stabilize the composition of the water, add minerals and trace elements, and remove fecal matter and plant debris from the aquarium floor.
As a general rule, every one to two weeks, siphon and replace 25 to 50 percent of the tank water. During siphoning, make sure to remove the biological waste that accumulates on the tank floor. The standard method for changing water is to remove it using an aquarium siphon and 5-gallon bucket.
Do not start a siphon using your mouth. There is a high risk of bacterial and parasitic infections because you can’t avoid taking in the fouled water from the end of the siphon tube, and you may accidentally swallow it.
Siphons with hand pumps are sold at aquarium stores. Manual boat bilge pumps (which are very effective) and industrial wet-dry vacuum cleaners (being careful not to wet electrical parts or to accidentally suction frogs or newts) are also very effective.
Remember to dechlorinate the replacement water. This means buying a chlorine remover at a store that sells aquarium supplies or allowing water to sit in a container for at least twenty-four hours prior to use. In areas where chloramine (a compound of nitrogen and chlorine) is used to treat your water, a dechloraminator, also available from pet stores, should be added to the water. If you keep larval amphibians, leave replacement water in a bucket or tub for at least twenty-four hours before use to let dissolved gasses to dissipate.
Every one to two weeks, clean out filters and/or replace filter media and scrape algae off the sides using a single-edge razor or an algae-scraping tool. Also remove or prune overgrown or dead plants. Wipe dust off the tank cover and the unplugged fluorescent bulb, and clean stains and dirt off the outside of the tank. You can safely use window cleaner such as Windex on the outside glass.
If properly set up and maintained, planted tanks last for years, possibly more than a decade, without requiring a full disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly. I keep several 1.5-gallon setups, heavily planted and stocked with underwater frogs and floating frogs, that are three years old and look better than ever. My larger axolotl and newt setups are going into their fourth year and look the best they ever have.
CHAPTER 4
WATER
If you plan to keep amphibians, water quality is one of the most important aspects of care. The ability to absorb water and a variety of water-soluble substances through their skin makes amphibians particularly sensitive to water quality and water-dissolved toxins. Larval forms, in particular, have especially fine epithelial (outer surface) skin, making them extremely sensitive to water chemistry and dissolved substances.
For example, water with high levels of chlorine destroys the fine gills of small amphibian larvae, damages their skin, and often kills them. Toxins such as ammonia, nitrites, cleaning compounds, and disinfectants pass through the skin and kill both adults and larval amphibians. High levels of dissolved gasses also penetrate the skin of tadpoles or larval salamanders and can lead to the formation of gas bubbles in their bodies that can kill them. Thousands of amphibians die annually because of improper or poor water conditions.
As you can see, the importance of water quality cannot be overemphasized. If you consistently have problems keeping amphibians alive, check the water quality first.
Aerosols and Pesticide Strips
Certain amphibians die when exposed to chemicals in aerosol forms, including cleaning compounds and hair sprays. Insecticidal pest strips (used by reptile keepers for treating mites) affect amphibians, and, when used in close quarters, might kill frogs and salamanders.
Detecting Water Problems
Amphibians in life-threatening water conditions show clear behaviors that things are not right. Life-threatening conditions include water that is too warm, too acidic, too hard, or too high in ammonia, nitrites, or toxins. The most obvious sign of distress is the animal’s frantic struggle to escape the life-threatening environment. Many amphibians in life-threatening water swim at the surface of the aquarium and attempt to access a land area. You also might see spastic twitching, leg extensions, and panicked darting or swimming. If you see these signs, immediately remove your amphibians and replace the water (not from the same source).
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