slightly domed and medium broad. The stop is defined, but not abrupt. The muzzle is strong and straight, a third of the head length, and ends in a nose of good size. The nose is always black. Flews and gums are black or slate gray. Flews are tight. A full complement of teeth, comparatively large, meet in a scissors bite.
The head of the Puli is very special. Under no circumstances should judges ignore the call for correct size, proportions and fineness, coupled with the domed skull. The skull-muzzle ratios of two-thirds to one-third is of great importance, for a too lengthy muzzle immediately suggests coarseness. The lack of dome on the skull will also lead to an impression of coarseness. The need for a relatively large nose is understandable in any working animal that needs to produce a turn of speed or enduring gait, when they will require unimpeded inhalation of air quickly into the lungs.
The description of the eyes should apply to all colors, and eye rims should always be well pigmented. In a dog that will be out working at times in intense sunlight, lack of pigment could allow the skin to become burnt.
Correct head viewed from front with hair overshadowing eyes like an umbrella.
Ears noticeable when alert; incorrect.
Correct body.
Body too long; withers level with back.
Correct head and muzzle.
Muzzle too long and snipey.
Dark brown eyes with well-pigmented eye rims are typical in all coat colors, according to the standard.
Neck, Topline, Body: The neck is strong, muscular, of medium length and free of throatiness. The back is level and strong, of medium length, with croup sloping slightly. The chest is moderately broad and deep—the ribs well sprung. The loin is short, strong and moderately tucked up. The tail is carried over, and blends into the backline.
Neck: There can be no doubt as to the requirement. Perhaps some judges may be influenced into believing that a longer neck is better—some have even gone as far as to praise a “good reachy neck”—but that is quite incorrect. The top of the head, when viewed from the side, is only a little higher than the top arch of the tail, giving a balanced appearance.
Body: This is described very well, and due to the very abundant coat in the mature Puli, the body must be checked carefully by a “hands-on” examination.
Tail: In some youngsters, when excited, the tail may be held a fraction loose. This can also indicate a degree of apprehension when the dogs first enter the show ring. In mature dogs, the tail should be carried firmly.
Forequarters: The shoulders are well laid back. Upper arm and scapula are approximately equal in length and form an angle of 90 degrees. The forelegs are straight, strong and medium boned with strong and flexible pasterns. Dewclaws, if any, may be removed. The round, compact feet have well arched toes and thick cushioned pads. The Puli stands well up on his pads. The pads and nails are black or slate gray.
A real understanding of the dog and his working needs is essential in order to fully appreciate correct forequarter construction. A good shoulder is essential in an animal that must be capable of bursts of strong and agile action. Working animals, dealing with quickwitted and cunning farm animals, must have the strength and ability to turn quickly. Without correct angulation, and the balance of the two main bones that make up the shoulder, clean forward reach and the ability to maintain untiring action are impeded if unbalanced. Most breeds will have a reasonable length and angulation of the bone that goes back from the forechest and up to the withers (scapula). However, a fairly common fault in so many breeds can be shortness or lack of angulation of what is called the “upper arm” (the bone that goes from the forechest back down to the elbow). If there is a lack of angulation in the shoulder, then the animal will be restricted in the length of forward reach it can attain. In turn, this will require a lot of tiny steps to cover a length of ground. An animal with better angulation will not need to take so many steps to cover the same distance, resulting in a less tired dog. Elbows should fit in neatly under the rib cage, and not be loose. This ensures strong and quite straight action when viewed from the front, without too much width between the legs.
Jaws of the Puli are strong, and teeth should meet in a perfect scissors bite as shown.
Feet: This very important part of the dog should be checked carefully, for if the dog is to do a day’s work, it is essential that feet should not be spread or have thin pads.
Hindquarters: The hindquarters are well developed and muscular with well bent stifles, the rear assembly balancing that of the front. The hocks are perpendicular to the ground and well let down. Dewclaws, if any, may be removed. Feet as in front.
This compares well to the need for forehand angulation. The standard mentions fairly low-set hocks and the actual joint should be checked for strength to ensure that there is no subluxation (sloping forward, rather like a double joint).
Coat: The dense, weather resistant coat is profuse on all parts of the body. The outer coat is wavy or curly, but never silky. The undercoat is soft, woolly and dense. The coat clumps together easily, and if allowed to develop naturally, will form cords in the adult. The cords are wooly, varying in shape and thickness, either flat or round, depending on the texture of the coat and the balance of undercoat to outer coat. The Puli may be shown either corded or brushed. It is essential that the proper double coat with correct texture always be apparent. With age the coat can become quite long, even reaching to the ground; however, only enough length to properly evaluate quality and texture is considered necessary so as not to penalize the younger or working specimens.
Although all Pulik may look alike to the casual viewer, there is variety in the coat types that are possible. We once had a litter of four, all ending up with different types of cords in maturity. You may have the fine, rounded cord; the thicker and not-so-tight but still rounded cord; the flat “ribbon” type that can be quite hard or perhaps slightly softer and loose in its composition; or the occasional cord that appears to be composed of both felt and a little softer texture, which are usually slower in forming. Whatever type of cord starts to form, it is inadvisable to attempt to change it.
Color: Only the solid colors of rusty black, black, all shades of gray and white are acceptable; however, on the chest a white spot of not more than 2 inches is permissible. In the black and the gray dogs an intermixture of some gray, black or white hairs is
