style="font-size:15px;"> so readers can concentrate on the fillings. And,oh, what fillings! You will be enchanted by his
formulas for mixing meat and vegetables, by his combinations like broccoli and eggs that appeal to kids’ palates,
and by an Italian-inspired carbonara dumpling with bacon, egg whites and Parmesan cheese that
prompted a restaurateur of a hip Brooklyn eatery to declare, “These would be huge on a
New York brunch menu.”
This book challenges, delights, and inspires. Yamamoto-san told me
that serving people what you have made by your own hand provides
love and sustenance, and is an act of intimacy. But don’t forget the
whimsy as well—whether producing savory courses or sweet
dessert dumplings, you can practice your culinary origami
as you twist, crimp and fold the skins around the fillings to
form penguins, sailor hats, and Santa’s toy sacks. Talk about
spreading happiness—Ho! Ho! Ho!
—Debra Samuels
7
Garlic Chives (Nira)
These flat, mildly aromatic
leaves are a gyoza staple. An
Asian market with a decent
produce section should
have them. If you can’t find
them, you can substitute an
equal quantity of chopped
round chives or green onion
(scallion) greens, plus a little
crushed fresh garlic.
Celery
Celery adds freshness and crunch to your
filling. Cut a stick of celery lengthwise into
strips before cutting crosswise for a fine
dice. Use the leaves, too!
The Gyoza Pantry
Ten basic ingredients to make
your dumplings
Ginger Root
An essential addition, fresh ginger will give your gyoza a bit of heat
and liveliness. Look for firm, unwrinkled roots with smooth brown
skin. Peel before chopping, grating, or grinding. Extra ginger root
can be frozen whole.
Cabbage
Use common green cabbage; it should be easy to find. Remove
the tough bottom part of the central vein before chopping
individual leaves finely. Napa cabbage or bok choy leaves can
be used in a pinch, but be aware that they may contain more
moisture than green cabbage.
Pork Belly
This is the secret to making
juicy, richly flavored gyoza.
Thinly sliced pork belly (sold
as “uncured bacon” in the US)
is easiest to chop up.
Green Onions (Scallions)
If you can find long, slender Japanese leeks
(called naganegi) in your local Asian market,
they are preferable. Otherwise, conventional
green onions are fine. Trim away the roots
and any wilted leaves, and use both the
green and white parts.
Pork Loin
Pork is the traditional meat of choice
for gyoza. You’ll be amazed at the
difference in flavor and texture when
you mince it yourself instead of buy-
ing ground meat. Boneless pork loin is
easiest to manage, and its leanness is
balanced out with an equal quantity of
chopped pork belly.
Shiitake Mushrooms
Fresh shiitakes are becoming more widely available.
You can find them in well-stocked produce sections,
as well as at some farmers’ markets. Dried shiitakes,
which are also easy to obtain, have a richer flavor
than fresh. To reconstitute dried mushrooms, place
in a bowl of filtered water, weight with a small plate,
and let stand in a cool place or the refrigerator for 8
hours or overnight. Drain and reserve the soaking
water for another purpose, like soup stock. If you’re
in a hurry, you can reconstitute them in 30 minutes
with boiling water, but the flavor and texture are
better with a slow soak.
Shaoxing Rice Wine
This rice wine, from a specific
region of China, is aged to take on
the characteristics of dry sherry.
It is widely available in Asian
markets. Dry sherry or sake may
be substituted if you can’t find
Shaoxing wine.
Gyoza Wrappers
Egg roll wrappers, wonton wrappers, dumpling skins … these thin
sheets of wheat-flour
