Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro. Paddy Dillon
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Risco de la Fortaleza is completely surrounded by cliffs on a rocky ridge high above San Sebastián and Playa de Santiago. A rugged path approaches it, and an interesting circuit takes in ruined farmsteads on exhausted, arid terraces at Morales and Casas de Contreras.
Little casetas are passed soon after the start of the walk alongside Risco de la Fortaleza
Buses stop at just over 900m (2950ft) at Degollada de Peraza, where there is a viewpoint, map-board and a nearby bar restaurant. Between the viewpoint and the bar, steps drop down from the road, passing a little house. Follow a path down into a barranco, passing palms and agaves, to around 750m (2460ft). Climb gradually to reach a junction on a ridge, beside ruined casetas at Berruga. Turn left to continue along the combined Rutas 25 and 28.
Go down rugged and easy stretches of path, passing palms, agaves, prickly pears, cistus, tabaibal and tagasaste. The path is mostly downhill, but there are a couple of short, steep, stone-paved ascents on the slopes of Alto de Tacalcusie. Eventually, the path turns gradually left and levels out among palms and agaves. Rise past terraces to reach a gentle gap at Llano de la Cruz, at 722m (2368ft).
There is a path junction, and the plan is to turn left along Ruta 28, return to this point later on Ruta 25 and then retrace the route back to Degollada de Peraza. First, turn left as signposted for Morales. The path climbs gently before descending, Note a solitary ruin, but keep an eye on yellow flashes as the path crosses old terraces covered in tabaibal. Drift towards the edge of the Barranco del Cabrito, then away from it, then back towards it.
Walk down towards a ruin, but watch for a sudden right turn away from the barranco. The path leads down to another ruin, then afterwards turns left at a junction to pass yet another ruin. Level out and reach a signpost at the ruined village of Morales, around 520m (1705ft). The buildings are worth exploring, but take care as some are close to collapse.
The Bar Restaurante Degollada de Peraza and Alto de Tacalcusie
Turn right, as signposted for the GR132 for Casas de Contreras, down a rocky path to cross a barranco, then up across a slight gap. Go down to cross another barranco then up across a terraced slope. The path drifts down to a rock wall, which is climbed using a breach; then a gentle descent crosses a terraced slope. A rugged path drops into a barranco and climbs up the other side past a ruin. Watch carefully at a corner, turning right to drop into a deeper barranco. Climb the other side to a ruined mansion at Casas de Contreras, at 400m (1310ft).
Turn right at the crumbling ruins of Casas de Contreras as signposted uphill for the Ruta 25 back to Degollada de Peraza. Climb past the house and the prickly pears behind it. Go up a rocky, boulder-paved path that rises along a low, rocky ridge between terraces covered in tabaibal. Keep climbing to pass three ruins and the path finally levels out at Llano de la Cruz, returning to the path junction reached earlier in the walk. Turn left downhill, as signposted and simply retrace the earlier steps of the day to return to Degollada de Peraza.
WALK 4
Los Roques and Benchijigua
Start | Roque de Agando |
Finish | Playa de Santiago |
Alternative finish | Imada |
Distance | 12.5km (7¾ miles) |
Total ascent | 75m (245ft) |
Total descent | 1200m (3935ft) |
Time | 5hr |
Terrain | A steep initial forested descent, then more gently graded valley paths, ending with a long road walk to the coast, or an optional climb |
Refreshments | Plenty of choice in Playa de Santiago |
Transport | Buses serve Los Roques from San Sebastián and Valle Gran Rey. Buses from Playa de Santiago serve San Sebastián and Valle Gran Rey. |
Note | Route uses Ruta 23, with an option to follow Ruta 24 |
Los Roques represent the resistant innards of ancient volcanoes, forming a remarkable huddle of rocky domes. Walking southwards leads through the scenic and often dramatic Benchijigua valley. The route ends with an easy road walk to Playa de Santiago, with an option to climb and finish at Imada.
Start at the foot of the Roque de Agando, over 1100m (3610ft), where it is worth climbing up and down the steps to take in a series of remarkable roadside viewpoints. The path leaving the road is signposted as Ruta 23 for Benchijigua and immediately enters the Reserva Natural Integral Benchijigua. Laurisilva quickly gives way to pines as the stone-paved path winds downhill. There are also agaves, tagasaste, almonds, prickly pears, cistus and all kinds of low-lying plants. Cross a concrete water channel and continue down a narrow path.
Cross a stream and head gently up an easier path, with views back to Roque de Agando. A level path crosses a slope of agaves and palms then a rugged, stony path winds downhill, reaching pines and eucalyptus and crossing water pipes. A sharp left leads down to houses and a dirt road in the lovely little village of Benchijigua, near a little ermita on a hilltop.
The prominent Roque de Agando marks the start of the walk
Two routes leave the dirt road, the combined Rutas 23 and 24 for Playa de Santiago, and Ruta 24 for Imada (see later). Follow the combined route down a path to a bouldery riverbed. Turn right down the bed a short way then leave it using a level path past prickly pears. Turn left downhill before a caseta, cross a stream and squeeze past cistus to reach a road. Turn left up the road, then right as signposted, down and up a slope of tabaibal, cistus and agaves. Swing left round a corner on an ash slope. Wind down to cross a water channel and a streambed. The path runs part way down the valley, passing palms, then follows a terrace with a view across to the little village of Lo del Gato.
Avoid a sharp right turn to the village, keeping straight ahead along stone-buttressed paths above the river. Wind down past two circular reservoirs and follow pipes a short way as waymarked. Cross the rocky riverbed and walk down it to reach a building. Continue down the riverbed and cross it to climb up a stone-paved zigzag path. Follow a terrace path past houses and gardens, then a concrete path with steps to a road at Pastrana.
Follow the road a little then turn right to zigzag down steps and a rugged path to reach a road in the valley bottom. Turn