Make Mine a Martini. Kay Plunkett-Hogge
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Make sure that you have the right glass for the right drink, size-wise at least. This is not Big Gulp time at the drive through. It’s the cocktail hour… At all costs avoid those ridiculous bucket-like glasses that should really only be sold at novelty stores for keeping marbles, goldfish or small coins in. Anything but a cocktail.
Shaken vs. Stirred
This is really about ice. Ice and dilution. When you shake a cocktail, you break the ice cubes, leaving tiny shards of ice in the drink. These shards dilute the drink, balancing the flavours in a shaken cocktail. When you stir, this dilution is commensurately less.
Since ice both chills and weakens a cocktail (chilling is good, weakening less so…), there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure you get the best from it.
1.The more ice you put in the shaker, the faster it will chill a drink, shaken or stirred, with less dilution. With a shaker, more ice is better.
2.The size of an ice cube matters: the smaller the ice cubes, the more surface area there is to melt into the drink. Which is why many bartenders will serve drinks like an Old Fashioned with a single large ice cube to minimize the dilution.
3.Over time, ice picks up the flavours of other things in your freezer. You should always make sure you have fresh ice when you make cocktails – there’s nothing worse than a hint of old dinners in your Gimlet.
Shaking and stirring give you control over the sharpness of the alcohol in a cocktail. When it comes to a drink like a Martini, it is as ever a question of preference. So try it both ways and find out which you prefer. So long as your cocktail’s cold!
Bar Snacks
Every good drink, and indeed every good drinks party, needs a toothsome accompaniment. Snacks, canapés, eats: call them what you will. So on pages 144–219 are some of my favourites, things I find my guests love and that do not take me away from them for too long.
To be honest, you could totally ignore the recipe section and just trot along to your nearest deli to buy a gorgeous selection of cheese, charcuterie and olives. Maybe even a paté or a pie. Or throw out some nuts; I wouldn’t hold it against you. Some of my favourite bar snacks of all time are the monkey nuts in their shells at Chez Jay in Santa Monica. They arrive in a red plastic basket, you just pop them open and discard the shells on the floor. Chez Jay’s owner, Jay Fiondella famously persuaded Alan Shepard to take one of them to the moon and back – the very first astro-nut! (If you’re out that way, pop in for a visit and one of their fine Margaritas.)
The Art of the Party
Throwing a good party should be enormous fun, both for your guests and for you. Here are some simple tips to help things go with a swing.
Drinks
It doesn’t matter how many people you’ve invited, the fact of it is that you don’t run a bar. You don’t have every kind of liquor or elixir stuffed into a cupboard, so the whole gamut of cocktails is out of the question. Offer a couple of options, and wine and beer if you feel like it. If you have a large number of guests, by which I mean more than 20, it’s a good idea to choose a drink you can scale up and premix.
Scaling up
A lot of cocktail recipes can be restructured so that you think about their ingredients in terms of ratios instead of measurements. This makes it very much easier to scale them up for a party. The Margarita works out as one part lime juice to one part triple sec to two parts tequila (1:1:2). So before anyone arrives, you can premix a perfect batch of cocktails to those proportions, beginning with the ingredient of which you have the least (which is usually the lime juice), and then shake them over ice for your guests as required. Here are some cocktails that scale up beautifully:
•The Margarita
•The Cosmopolitan – just add the dash of cranberry as you shake each one
•The Classic Daiquiri
•Tom’s April Sour
•The Fine and Dandy
•The Classic Rum Punch
Food
Again, keep it simple. Never forget that your friends have come round to see you, so it’s not going to be the ideal evening if you never leave the kitchen! The snacks need to be substantial enough to stop people from feeling the effects of the cocktails TOO much. And they need to go with the setting – if it’s an evening where everyone’s on their feet, you want food that’s easy to hold and isn’t going to drip down somebody’s frock. If it’s a smaller affair, or a brunch, then plates and forks (oh, how I do love a cocktail fork!) can come out, and the food can be a little more robust.
The important thing is to make sure you serve things that reflect the numbers you’ve invited. The more people, the simpler you want it to be. If there are just eight of you, then you might want to cook a few things that take a bit of time. If there are 28, you’d probably prefer to serve something less arduous to prepare. So choose your canapés accordingly.
How Much Is Enough?
Here are a few tips to make the question of how much to feed and water the masses a little easier:
•For wine, half a bottle of wine or bubbly per person is fairly standard. But I have a deep-set fear of running out, so I always veer towards three-quarters to a bottle per person, and know I’ll have leftovers. Most wine merchants will sell wine by the case on sale or return. Just be careful not to ice all the white wine or Champagne because they won’t accept it back if you soak off the labels.
•I generally estimate two to three cocktails an hour per head, plus one for luck! Bear in mind that most people will slow down as the evening goes on.
•Always have plenty of still and sparkling water on hand and at least one non-alcoholic drink.
•If the party is to last two hours, bank on 8–10 canapés per head, of perhaps 3–5 different types.
•For three hours, go for 12–14 canapés per head, of perhaps 4–6 different types.
•For four hours plus – well, at this point you can echo my father: ‘I invited you for drinks, not breakfast.’ At which point he’d ring a large ship’s bell. You can just smile and say the party is over.
•If you are serving pre-dinner drinks, however, I think 4–5 canapés per head is fine: you want them to have room for their dinner! In fact, I often just serve Salted Almonds and a Soup Shot if we’re heading into a substantial meal.
Planning