considerations. Summers can be dangerously hot in desert regions. Always carry plenty of drinking water and keep an eye on your vehicle’s temperature gauge. When climbing long mountain grades, you may need to turn off your AC and open your windows for fresh air. If the gauge hits the danger zone, pull over at a rest area and let your engine cool down. Never remove your radiator cap while the engine is steaming hot.
Summer also brings a lot of sudden, heavy rain to this region; locals call it the “monsoon season.” Clouds tend to build over the mountains through the day, then unleash downpours in the afternoon. These storms usually blow up quickly, and end just as quickly. If you’re caught in torrential rain, it is often best to pull off the roadway and wait it out. Never enter a flooded wash, and never drive around barricades. If you are caught on open high ground during a lightning storm, remain in your vehicle with your hands in your lap; touch nothing metal.
Despite the southern latitude, mountain areas can get plenty of snow in winter. All the usual winter driving precautions apply here: wait for the plow, watch for black ice, and know how to control skids. If snow tires or chains are advised, be sure to use them. Driving in snow and on icy roads is an acquired skill, and not altogether intuitive. Never assume you know what you’re doing if you’ve never done it before.
Desert. You’ll see a lot of desert in Arizona and New Mexico. This is not friendly terrain. If you go out walking among the cacti, watch where you put your feet, and don’t touch anything! Not only are there rattlesnakes, there’s cholla (choy-ah), a common cactus with tiny barbed spines that attach and will not let go. And, please, don’t go off-roading in desert terrain. If there’s not already a road, don’t make a new one; these ecosystems are fragile.
Wildlife. You may encounter deer, elk, antelope, and other animals on the road, especially in forested areas. Give animals a wide berth; don’t approach them; don’t attempt to feed them. If you’re on foot, and you encounter a bear or a mountain lion, avoid eye contact and back away slowly; don’t kneel or crouch down, and never turn your back and run. If you are bitten by any creature larger than an insect, seek medical attention ASAP.
Border country. When traveling within 25 miles of the U.S. border with Mexico, expect to see agents of U.S. Customs and Border Protection on routine patrol. There are checkpoints on every major road, and all vehicles must stop; agents have the right to verify the immigration status of everyone in the vehicle, and to visually inspect the interior, even if you have not crossed the border. Everyone, but especially foreign nationals, should carry appropriate identification, such as a passport, when traveling in this area.
Indian lands. Indian reservations, regardless of size, are essentially sovereign nations; they have their own laws, their own courts, and their own Tribal Police forces, which have the same authority over travelers as any police force. All reservation land should be considered private property, and travel off the main roads is generally prohibited without a permit. Photography is prohibited in many communities; obey all posted directives.
National parks and monuments. Arizona and New Mexico are home to many wonderful national parks and monuments. In parks that charge an entrance fee, keep your pass on display inside your vehicle when it’s parked. If you’re visiting several national parks, you can purchase an America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80 in 2017), which covers admission to every national park and monument in the U.S. for an entire year.
For a wealth of information about road trips, including trip advice, maps, and forums, visit the RoadTrip America website: RoadTripAmerica.com. All of the routes described in this book are available for downloading for free at roadtripamerica.com.
Enjoy the ride!
— Rick Quinn
Part 1: Scenic Alternatives to Interstate 10
Interstate 10 is the southernmost of the true cross-country expressways. West of the Mississippi River, the highway traverses the vast Texas plains and three deserts: empty, treeless terrain that’s the color of dust and seems to go on forever. As it crosses through New Mexico and Arizona, the highway skirts south of the remnants of the Rockies, running parallel to the old Southern Pacific Railroad just north of the Mexican border. It’s a fast road, with minimal grades and very few curves, which makes it a favorite of long-haul truckers.
Sightseeing vacationers might prefer one of the eight Scenic Side Trips in this section, which covers the 591-mile segment of I-10 from Van Horn, Texas, to Phoenix, Arizona. Each route leads off into the mountains that line the horizon, and on through the countryside beyond. These are some of the most beautiful back roads you’ll ever drive, and they take in some amazing attractions. Each route finishes back on I-10, where you can continue on your way, or head off on another adventure.
In this desert region, you can expect hot, mostly dry weather from spring into fall, with temperatures commonly rising well above 100 degrees. If you’re traveling between mid-June and mid-September, keep an eye on the sky; this is “monsoon” season, when warm, moist air flows north from the Gulf of California, brewing violent thunderstorms that can disrupt highway travel, but also deliver beautiful rainbows and sunsets.
Several routes have mountain segments where the road climbs as high as 9,000 feet, rising from cactus-studded desert into cool pine forest over the course of just a few dozen miles. On those roads, you might pass through several different ecosystems, each with a completely different climate, different vegetation, and different species of wildlife. These “sky islands,” as they’re called, are unique to this desert region.
Wildflowers bloom along these routes from spring through summer; the cactus blossoms in the Arizona deserts are especially lovely, and different species bloom at different times, beginning in mid-March. Autumn brings fall colors to the higher elevations and river valleys. Winter can bring snow to the high country, and sometimes road closures; check road conditions locally when in doubt. Note that some of the featured attractions on these routes are seasonal: some open only in summer, others only in winter.
The routes in this section are sequenced for drivers traveling east to west. If you are going the other way, just reverse the itinerary.
Scenic Side Trip 1
Van Horn, Texas, to Las Cruces, New Mexico
via Carlsbad Caverns and White Sands
432 miles, 9 hours 45 minutes for drive time, more for optional routes, stops, and sightseeing
To the Bat Cave, Billy the Kid! The aliens are coming!
If you’ve come barreling across Texas on Interstate 10—and many travelers do, taking advantage of the 80 mph speed limit—you will be ready for a change of pace by the time you’re within striking distance of El Paso. This seriously scenic detour will add at least 250 miles to your journey between Van Horn and Las Cruces, turning what would have been 3 more hours of highway driving into a full-day adventure that will leave you both exhausted and exhilarated.
Leaving Texas
The route begins 120 miles east of El Paso in the small ranching community of Van Horn. If you arrive at the end of the day and want to stay the night before starting this drive, consider the historic Hotel El Capitan, a nicely restored Spanish colonial-style establishment with decor dating from the 1930s.
After exiting the Interstate,
