Tales and Trials Down Under. George Lockyer

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for vetinary college or University. “I’ve had students become anything from farriers and chiropractors to helicopter pilots; you name it,” says John, “the horse industry is pretty diverse, they could end up anywhere.”

      I wonder aloud if young people today are that interested in getting their hands dirty and whether there will be enough people to fill the places at the college. “No George, Australia has a chronic shortage of rural workers and in January and February my phone rings off the hook with property owners looking for young people.”

      I ask John if he’s ever been injured at work. “Touch wood, I’ve had a remarkably injury-free career considering,” he replies. “I broke a couple of ribs this year for the first time but there was no malice involved. The little horse just pulled its leg away as the flies were pretty bad and she accidentally bumped me in the ribs. But I’ve always tried to ride quality horses, use quality gear and follow sound equine handling philosophies and guidelines. A few people out there are getting broken bone,s but sometimes accidents just happen.”

      With the growing trend towards people trying to eat less meat, I ask John how he sees the future of the cattle industry. “Well there’s such a shortage of protein world-wide,” comes the immediate response, “and with the growing world population, we’ve got to feed people. So as long as there’s one cow left in Australia, we’re going to need someone to muster it. You can have all the drones and technology in the world but you’ll still need workers.”

      The Longreach area and western Queensland has experienced years of ongoing drought with summer rains failing for the past eight. I ask John how climate change has influenced the cattle industry. “Yeah … it’s become something that people have to work with,” he says. “Management and grazing strategies have had to change severely to work with the climate. But there was certainly no global warming this morning. It was only one degree!”

      John tells me that there is no gender bias in the industry these days and there are just as many young women as men in his classes. In the last 20 years there’s been a huge increase in the number of females working in the rural industry. “Girls certainly can do it,” says John, “I even know of female head stockmen, which would have been unheard of 40 years ago.”

      “Shouldn’t that be ‘stockperson’ John?” I ask tongue-in-cheek and we laugh.

      Finally, I ask him how much longer he can see himself doing this. “Well,” he considers, “while I can beat those young fellas to the breakfast table and shoe more horses in a day, then I’ll carry on doing it.” Another thoughtful pause, “I don’t think I’m past my used-by-date just yet.”

      Morning finds me roaming the streets, along with a throng of other tourists. The café on the main street has wi-fi and serves up a fair eggs, bacon and coffee – not a bad way to start the day. I love coffee shops, consider myself something of a connoisseur of them, in fact. I feel as comfortable ensconced in one, coffee, book or notebook and pen in front of me, as I do in my own living room. At times it can feel almost voyeuristic, this sharing of space with complete strangers. I love the unspoken contract between patrons – we’re sharing this space, sharing a few moments in time, yet we’re apart. A smile, a nod of recognition, an exchange of pleasantries, a statement of togetherness. A brief respite in a journey from A to B, or indeed one’s life.

      The street is bathed in brilliant sunshine as a flock of pink galahs (also known as pink or grey cockatoos) hurtle by at head-height. After trying on every Akubra in the hat shop, I ride to the Australian Stockman’s Hall of Fame and wander the 2,500 square metres of floor space. Hugh Sawrey, ex-stockman and renowned artist, founded the museum which was opened by the Queen in 1988. Many displays tell the stories of Aboriginals, European explorers, settlers and the unsung heroes of Outback Australia.

      Just down the road is another tourist attraction, The Qantas Founders Outback Museum. In the car park are three dusty KLR 650s with “Burke and Wills 2018 Tour” stickers on their screens. I keep a weather-eye open for the riders but don’t see them. Two museums in one day is pushing it for me. After half an hour I’m usually getting a bit panicky and looking for the exit, but this one is different, and I manage almost 45 minutes! I discover that Qantas is an acronym for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services, and that it’s the 3rd oldest airline in the world. Its original headquarters was up the highway in Winton before it re-located to Longreach in 1921.

      It’s nice to have a cruisy day and I catch up on some writing and even manage a nana nap. My host Lisa is an absolute gem and has arranged for me to interview the editor of the local rag. It’s very informal – I’m to meet him tonight at the bar in the RSL.

      I’m somewhat spoilt having been brought up on English pub culture, and certainly do miss it but it must be said that for people travelling through, like myself, the RSLs hit the spot. Like a lot of institutions in the 21st century, they are having trouble staying relevant with the younger generation, and many RSLs have amalgamated with other clubs in an effort to survive. The ‘No Smoking’ policy hit them really hard according to the barmaid, who is wearing a tight T shirt telling me that Elvis didn’t in fact die in 1977 but still lives! As I’ve been staring at her chest for the past five seconds, I feel a comment is required. “Nice T-shirt,” is all I can muster but she smiles without eye contact.

      Colin and I sit at the bar, a couple of schooners in front of us, VB for him, light beer for me as I’m on my bike. The convivial hubbub of conversation, laughter and clinking glasses fills the air. Colin’s just finished work and walked from the office which is only ten minutes away. He’s not impressed with my dictaphone. “My grandfather and father taught me not to use tape. I just took notes and stored it all up here,” he says, tapping his head.

      Colin is the editor of the Longreach Leader, a position he’s had for about a year. He’s proud to say that he’s the 3rd generation of a North Queensland newspaper family. “This paper in Longreach started in January 1923 and my family’s paper, the Home Hill Observer started a month later in February 1923.”

      Home Hill, he explains is just south of Townsville and was named, like other towns in the region after places made famous in the Crimean War of 1853-56. Apparently, the sign writer decided to drop the ‘l’ from Holme Hill and it was never changed.

      Colin and his brother sold the family paper when he was 40, his brother staying on as editor and Colin joining the MTAQ (Motor Trades Association of Queensland) where he worked for the next ten years and started up four new magazines. “When you see opportunity you run with it,” he says. “I started a tyre magazine which took me all over the world. The highlight was visiting South Korea and the Hankook tyre factory. The Koreans were just so proud of their work.”

      Colin also visited the border and the demilitarised zone. And reckons the North Koreans could invade and take over any time they chose. “It’s a good job the Yanks are there,” he says, “and I like the old Trumpster. He’s a no-nonsense bloke. Don’t get in my way or I’ll kick your arse! That’s how you do it. Keep them guessing.”

      After being laid-off, Colin, a graphic artist by trade went out on his own. “I can operate printing presses and I did my journalism cadetship under my father and did

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