the quilted animals that lived in shallow water may, possibly, have housed symbiotic algae or bacteria in their tissues, and basked in the sunshine, like prostrate reef corals. On the other hand, the Mistaken Point fauna appear to have lived in too deep and too turbid an environment for this to be a plausible option. It is perhaps not surprising that such strange creatures have inspired strange explanations. One worker even claimed that the vendobionts were not animals at all, but lichens, the living symbiotic collaboration between fungus and ‘alga’* that coats trees and rocks almost everywhere in the world. Lichens are the ultimate biological survivors in the simplest sense, because they seem to relish hardship and the tough life. However, none of them is adapted to life in the sea. The fact that some lichens have a flat and foliate form, as do the Precambrian ‘spindles’, indicates no more than a broadly similar way of growing over flat surfaces. Life’s history is as full of repetition as it is of endless inventiveness.
The waves surge and retreat from the stacked-up sea floors that once built Mistaken Point. This continually punished land will inevitably succumb to erosion, and the record of ancient life buried by chance so long ago beneath clouds of volcanic ash will be returned to the sea as a billion tiny particles. In the end, only the sea endures, it is the greatest survivor of them all. Even the continents mutate and remake themselves, driven by the internal engines of the earth powering slow but inexorable movements of tectonic plates. Mountain ranges are elevated and then reduced to rubble, but life can outlast mere Himalayas. Peripatus’ relatives once walked upon Gondwana when Africa was united with Australia and the Americas. The memory of
5. Pangaea – where the continents of the world were united as one ‘supercontinent’ 270 million years ago. The southern mass (South America, Africa, India, Antarctica, Australia) is Gondwana.
that vanished geography still lingers under rotting logs, or whispers through the leafy boughs of podocarp forests. Briefly, at least geologically speaking, all the continents were united together in the supercontinent called Pangaea (Greek: ‘all earth’) some 270 million years ago. But that mighty entity, too, was just a phase, just one configuration of the earth’s ever-changing physiognomy. For earlier still there was a time when continents were dispersed once more, making for a geography that looks still odder to our eyes. Science tries to reconstruct this former world map: it is like cutting a jigsaw puzzle into a set of new pieces, and then attempting to refit them into another picture altogether. By the Cambrian Period some 500 million years ago, these scattered continents were naked with their rocks unclothed by plants. The distant relatives of the velvet worm were there, though, living beneath the sea among a host of other creatures: some strange, some familiar. The lobopods were more diverse then than they have ever been since.* The branches of the tree of life were drawing closer to a relatively few common major limbs, but there was still a great variety of crawling, swimming, floating, burrowing creatures. There were livings to be earned: prey to hunt, hideaways to construct, plankton to be filtered, mates to be found. But then we must go back further, still further, into the Ediacaran. The surf at Mistaken Point washes over an even earlier, but alien world, a vanished world of soft-bodied, fractal things. There may have been no predation then, no burrowing, no grazing, no evidence of ‘nature red in tooth and claw’. It was a different biosphere, and its mysteries still elude us. And the fossils of Mistaken Point prove that not everything survived.
The search for the velvet worm leads to unsuspected places and puzzling worlds.
3
Slimy Mounds
Shark Bay is a long way from anywhere. In Australia, distance soon acquires its own curious rules. Within the suburban strip that lines favoured parts of the coast there are traffic jams and shopping malls like anywhere else, but away from civilisation the outback country stretches onwards forever. Far from the mountainous east, much of the country is flat. No doubt connoisseurs of the horizontal find infinite entertainment in its small variations, but for me a bemused puzzlement sets in after a few hours apparently rehearsing the same piece of landscape numerous times. Time begins to stretch in odd ways. After a snooze, I wake up unsure whether I have been asleep for ten minutes or two hours. Small eucalypts line wandering creeks while sand dunes are covered with scrub, occasional scruffy fences mark obscure ownership, and there are groves of taller gums or isolated she-oaks stocked with the noisy parrots known as galahs. Then the sequence repeats, but not necessarily in the same order. The landscape is utterly distinctive, like that of nowhere else in the world, with a stark beauty under a clear pale blue sky, but it is also relentlessly repetitive. Anyone foolish enough to leave the marked track will find it is easy to get lost. Bush stories are full of sticky ends and grieving widows. I know that maps do not really work in a landscape that repeats like an old tune whistled over and over.
Route 1, running up the west coast of Western Australia towards Shark Bay, seems never to end. The Greyhound bus runs onwards through the dark, with nothing really distinguishing the passage of miles except sporadically a startled kangaroo picked out in the headlights. Occasional vehicles pass the other way, and each one seems something of a surprise. What can they be doing out here? I have to remind myself yet again that I am en route to see one of the holy relics in geology; it will be worth the effort. After countless hours, the Overlander Roadhouse welcomes me – a neon-lit marker set down in the endless landscape; a gas station, with a rudimentary restaurant, a place to loaf about until the next bus arrives. Aboriginal people wait there desultorily for relatives who have been off to Perth or somewhere to make a few dollars. Flies buzz about, with irritating persistence; there must be something else for them to do than endlessly return to drink from the same sweaty brow, or so one would think, but round and round they go. Backpackers loiter, waiting to embark on the next section of an adventure planned in theory, but now measured out in sweat and flies. It is a kind of end-of-the-world place, on nobody’s list of ‘must-sees’, but an essential stopping point before negotiating the wilderness. This is a place where timetables mean something to somebody, a place where I can get the next bus to see the stromatolites. Not far from the Overlander Roadhouse is a place that tells us of the transformation of the very air we breathe, a window opening into remote Precambrian times.
Though the outback may look pristine, in this part of Australia the wildlife has been transformed by human introductions. Feral goats have degraded the natural bush, and cats have culled the nocturnal mammals that were once numerous. The big-eared marsupial bilby, with its back legs like a miniature kangaroo and improbably long tail, is such a charming animal that it has become a kind of mascot for the conservation movement hereabouts. It would indeed be tragic if its only permanent memorial were in one of those perfectly photographed wildlife television programmes. Conservationists in Australia have taken to referring to the ‘Easter bilby’ rather than the ‘Easter bunny’ (bunnies being voracious introductions, too). It is already too late for many small marsupials in the eastern states of the country; their only record now being watercolour drawings made by the early naturalists. These harmless creatures could not outwit intelligent feline and canine hunters, and they failed to survive. Australia is full of poignant paradoxes. This land has many ancient biological survivors yet it is also, much like New Zealand, a place where the extinction of species is still in progress. This is despite the efforts of a generation of Australians many of whom treasure their unique fauna and flora. Almost every town boasts dedicated people concerned with ‘bush regeneration’, and in Western Australia new species of beautiful indigenous plants are still being discovered regularly, even around Perth. It is a very biodiverse region, despite the challenges of the climate, and not yet fully known. While I was there Tropical Cyclone Hubert turned the sky black, and sections of the main road were closed. The species that live in this tough land must be natural survivors to be able to negotiate
