rel="nofollow" href="#ulink_12577adb-a27c-50c7-9ddc-74c619d52db9">here). If the problem is persistent, a more complex solution has to be found, such as installing underground drains. This is an area where professional help should be sought.
In dry soil conditions, the addition of organic matter will assist water retention, but generally a regular watering regime has to be undertaken to ensure that the soil is kept moist. If you have free-draining soil and persistently dry conditions, then you should choose plants that suit the conditions. Grasses and many plants from the Mediterranean region are suitable for dry conditions. There is always an answer for whatever the situation.
Plants for wet positions
Betula nigra (river birch)
Caltha palustris (giant marsh marigold)
Gunnera manicata
Ligularia ‘Gregynog Gold’
Lysichiton americanus (yellow skunk cabbage)
Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich fern)
Persicaria amplexicaulis (bistort)
Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’ (Chinese rhubarb)
Rodgersia aesculifolia
Trollius europaeus (common European globeflower)
Humidity
Humidity is the amount of water vapour in the atmosphere. It is also affected by the moisture content of the soil. At one extreme, high humidity can encourage the growth of mould and fungal diseases, while a low humidity can increase the rate at which plants dry out and wilt. Low humidity can be improved in a garden by introducing water features and soaking all hard areas and soil, occasionally hosing down with water. Gardeners often refer to this as ‘damping down’. The opposite extreme to low humidity occurs mainly in rainforests, where plants adapt to these very particular conditions. Careful selection of moisture-loving plants is therefore important.
It is unlikely that you will have a perfect balance of all of these elements of climate in your garden, but a basic understanding of your local conditions will help enormously. Knowing that you can take some steps to work with the climate and not against it will help to improve your gardening results.
Euphorbia myrsinites naturally grows in exposed rocky places, and so is ideal for planting in a drystone wall.
Astilbes are moisture-loving plants and are best grown in partial shade.
Getting to grips with the stuff that you grow things in can save you a lot of wasted time and money. A plant adapted for boggy conditions will thrive in a heavy, clay soil with poor drainage. Planted in a well-drained, sandy soil, lavender will thrive just as it does in its native Mediterranean soil. Of course, you can contrive soil conditions by planting in containers or raised beds, but as it’s usually not possible to change your type of soil, it is essential that you understand what you have.
You don’t need a degree in chemistry to gain an understanding of the many different types of soil. Although you could spend many years learning about and specializing in soil types, the structure of the soil, the balance of nutrients in the soil and the constituent make-up of the soil, it just isn’t necessary when you start out in your gardening endeavours. Instead, a simple appreciation of soil types and their respective strengths and weaknesses will do to get you started.
What is soil?
Soil is the growing medium for your plants. From soil, your plants will draw their water and their nutrients. The soil provides a base in which the plant is physically supported too. The fact that soil can do all of this shows you just what an amazing natural material it is.
Some people are lucky enough to have a good soil for gardening that needs little in the way of support and improvement. Others are less fortunate and have a soil that needs to be enhanced by improving the structure of the soil by adding organic material, such as manure, and improving the nutritional value of the soil through the addition of fertilizers (see here). The types of soil that you may encounter are shown opposite.
Rhododendrons and azaleas both grow best in a soil that has a low pH value, which is usually referred to as ‘acid soil’.
Soil types at a glance
| CLAY SOIL | |
| RECOGNIZING THE SOILHeavy, sticky soil that is difficult to work and dig.If you take a handful and squeeze it in your fist, it will keep the shape that you have squeezed it in to.PROS AND CONSOften rich in nutrients and highly moisture retentive.Often needs the addition of substantial amounts of grit, sand and organic matter to make it more workable and to help the drainage of the soil.SOIL IMPROVEMENTImproving the soil (see here) will make it easier to work and easier for the plants to access the rich supply of nutrients from the clay. | |
| SANDY SOIL | |
| RECOGNISING THE SOILThe opposite of clay soil, it is a dry soil that is very free-draining.A handful will flow freely through your fingers.PROS AND CONSGenerally easy to dig and to work with.Requires regular watering, although the soil’s ability to retain water will be improved by organic matter.Not as nutrient rich as clay soil.SOIL IMPROVEMENTAn annual autumn application of well-rotted manure or leaf mould as a top dressing, will greatly improve the structure of this type of soil. The application of fertilizer helps too. | |
| PEATY SOIL | |
| RECOGNISING THE SOILVery rich in organic material and good at retaining moisture.If you take a handful, it will be crumbly in texture, rich dark brown in colour and when squeezed will release some moisture.PROS AND CONSVery fertile but it can sometimes be too wet.SOIL IMPROVEMENTToo much rain can make the surface soil bind together. Annual mulching can help prevent this happening. | |
| CHALKY SOIL | |
| RECOGNISING THE SOILA crumbly, shallow soil.It is stony and very free draining.PROS AND CONSHas a reasonable supply of nutrients but it is usually alkaline, so not suitable for some acid-loving plants.SOIL IMPROVEMENTBenefits from a regular addition of organic material to aid nutrient levels. | |
| SILTY SOIL | |
| RECOGNISING THE SOILSimilar to sandy soil but a little more
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