on throwing the British out.”
“They are throwing the baby out with the dishwater, are they not?” Boris Ivanov said.
Boris Ivanov meant bathwater, but he was right. Zealots seemed to forget that the British had done plenty of good for India. They built roads, railways and set up a solid administrative and judicial system. They exemplified discipline and accountability. But with the “Quit India” movement in full force and patriotic sentiments running high, anything and everything British was being rejected.
“Let’s not mix politics with education,” said Dadamoshai. “They are separate issues. I want India to be free just as much as anybody else, but I also want our country to survive as a democracy. I want India to have a sure footing in the world. I am proposing the English language as a conduit, not as an endorsement of British politics.”
Teacups tinkled down the hallway. Chaya entered the veranda and set down the tea tray on the table.
“Velikolepno!” Boris Ivanov cried, rubbing his hands with gleeful anticipation. “I cannot get enough of this Indian tea.”
“Think about it—none of us would be here, had it not been for Assam tea,” said Dadamoshai.
“What do you mean?” Manik asked. “What does Assam tea have to do with anything we are talking about?”
“Ah! You know it was tea that put Assam on the world map, don’t you?” said Dadamoshai, stirring his cup. “It’s quite a remarkable story.”
* * *
Not so long ago Silchar was just a small fishing village, with its slow, winding river, paddy fields and sleepy bamboo groves. It all changed, however, in 1905, when the British made it the seat of central government for three major counties in Assam. Before that, the British had hardly turned an eyeball for Assam.
“Assam is India’s most neglected and backward state,” said Dadamoshai. “It is disaster-prone and inaccessible. We have devastating floods every year. You can see why the houses are built on bamboo stilts and have boats stored on the roofs.”
“It does rain an awful lot here. More than England, it seems,” said Manik.
“Oh, much more—Assam gets triple the amount of rain compared to England,” said Dadamoshai. “And England is considered a rainy country. Sometimes there seems to be more water than land in Assam. Rivers spring up overnight and change courses all the time.”
“Also big earthquicks happening here,” added Boris Ivanov, shaking his massive fists at the sky. “One time, so much—shake, shake, shake—I think the world is end today.”
I smiled, remembering. Several years ago Boris Ivanov was on one of his visits when the tremors struck one sleepy afternoon. He got so disoriented he fell right out of the plantation chair and was jittery for days. Earthquakes were common in our state. Assam straddled a major seismic fault, and throughout the year mild tremors rocked Assamese babies to sleep in their bamboo cribs.
When I turned back to the conversation, Dadamoshai was talking about the Ahoms—the rice farmers who lived in the silt-rich valley of the Bhramaputra.
“They are a simple, pastoral people,” said Dadamoshai, “of Sino-Burmese descent. All they want to do is chew their betel nut, drink rice wine and live life lahe-lahe.”
“What’s lahe-lahe?” Manik asked, tapping his unlit cigarette.
“Slowly-slowly,” said Dadamoshai. “This lazy mentality of the Assamese has kept them in the dark ages while the rest of India has marched on. Of course opium has a lot to do with the lahe-lahe.”
But it seemed the Ahoms were not left alone to enjoy their salubrious lives. They were constantly harassed by marauding tribes who thundered across the Burmese border to ransack and pillage their villages, carrying off every slant-eyed, honey-skinned woman they could lay their hands on. All they left behind were toothless widows.
“I am not surprised,” said Manik. “Assamese women are delicate beauties. They remind me of orchids.”
I felt a pinch of jealousy. No wonder he likes Kona, I thought. She was dainty and feminine—like an orchid.
“The Ahom kings tried their best to fight off the Burmese invaders but they did not have the might or the mettle,” Dadamoshai continued. “Out of sheer desperation they appealed to the British for help.”
“But you say before the English are having no interest in Assam—” Boris Ivanov began.
Dadamoshai held up his hand. “Aha! But now suddenly the British were interested—oh, very interested in Assam.”
At any other given time the plea for help might have rolled right off the sola topees of our colonial leaders, but recent developments had piqued British interest in Assam. It was the discovery of tea. And this was not just any old tea—the most exquisite tea in the world had been found growing wild in the mist-laden hills of the Bhramaputra Valley. This accidental discovery smacked of commercial gain, so the British made a bargain with the Ahom kings: they offered protection against the Burmese invaders in return for developing a tea industry in Assam.
“I still don’t see what you, the Rai Bahadur, have to do with the tea industry,” Manik said.
“Let me explain,” said Dadamoshai.
The British needed to set up a central government to manage its affairs in Assam. They picked Silchar, a town strategically located close to the tea-growing belt. But when they looked to employ Indian staff to man their government offices, they discovered Assam had a surplus of rice farmers and toothless widows but not a single educated Indian to be found in the entire rain-drenched valley.
“But all was not lost,” Dadamoshai said, “because just a stone’s throw across the Padma River there was a rich pool of qualified Indians—the Sylhetis of East Pakistan, many of whom were educated in universities abroad.” He looked at Manik. “People like your father and I. We were lured to Assam with nice salaries and fancy titles to work for His Majesty’s service. So here we are in Silchar—all because of Assam tea.”
Dadamoshai did not mention his real reason for accepting the post as District Magistrate of Assam. He had shrewdly figured his dream to promote English as the medium of instruction in schools was in perfect alignment with colonial interests in India. As the powerful District Magistrate he would have the clout to make it all happen. But India’s struggle for independence skewed everything the wrong way. Dadamoshai had anticipated a shift in loyalties, but he had not counted on the blinkered view of our politicians or their narrow personal agendas. Before long he faced a tall embankment of opposition and found himself separated by an ideological divide that no amount of reason or common sense could ever hope to bridge. And he was left on the sidelines, an angry old man shaking his umbrella at the sky.
* * *
Darkness had fallen. Drums throbbed in the fishing village across the river. Manik Deb stirred in his chair. “Fascinating,” he said. “Funny how little I know about my own country. I have been gone for too long.”
“Did you do your earlier schooling in England, as well, before Oxford?” Dadamoshai asked.
“Yes. I went to Harrow. My father’s younger brother paid for my education. He lives in England—married an English lady, my aunt Veronica.
