After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819. William Edward Frye
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review—The Duke de Berri—Back to Bruxelles—Unjust opinions about
Napoleon and the French—Battle at Ligny—The day of Waterloo in
Bruxelles—Visit to the battlefield—Terrible condition of the
wounded—Kindness of the Bruxellois.
CHAPTER II
From Bruxelles to Liége—A priest's declamation against the French Revolution—Maastricht—Aix-la-Chapelle—Imperial relics—Napoleon regretted—Klingmann's "Faust"—A Tyrolese beauty—Cologne—Difficulties about a passport—The Cathedral—King-craft and priest-craft—The Rhine—Bonn and Godesberg—Goethe's "Götz von Berlichingen"—The Seven Mountains—German women—Andernach—Ehrenbreitstein—German hatred against France—Coblentz—Intrigues of the Bourbon princes in Coblentz—Mayence—Bieberich—Conduct of the Allies towards Napoleon—Frankfort on the Mayn—An anecdote about Lord Stewart and Lafayette—German poetry—The question of Alsace and Lorraine—Return to Bruxelles—Napoleon's surrender.
CHAPTER III
From Bruxelles to Paris—Restoration of Louis XVIII—The officers of the allied armies—The Palais Royal—The Louvre—Protest of the author against the proposed despoiling of the French Museums—Unjust strictures against Napoleon's military policy—The cant about revolutionary robberies—The Grand Opera—Monuments in Paris—The Champs Elysées—Saint-Cloud—The Hôtel des Invalides—The Luxembourg—General Labédoyère—Priests and emigrants—Prussian Plunder—Handsome behaviour of the English officers—Reminiscences of Eton—Versailles.
CHAPTER IV
From Paris to Bruxelles—Visiting the plains of Waterloo—The Duke de Berri
at Lille—Beauvais—Return to Paris—Remarks on the French theatre
—Talma—Mlle. Duchesnois—Mlle. Georges—French alexandrine verse—The Abbé
Delille—The Opéra Comique.
CHAPTER V
From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the
Simplon—Auxerre—Dijon—Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone—The army of the
Loire—Mâcon—French grisettes—Lyons—Monuments and theatricals— Geneva—Character and opinions of the Genevois—Voltaire's chateau at Ferney—The chevalier Zadera—From Geneva to Milan—Crossing the Simplon—Arona—The theatres in Milan—Rossini—Monuments in Milan—Art encouraged by the French—Mr. Eustace's bigotry—Return to Switzerland —Clarens and Vevey—Lausanne—Society in Lausanne—Return to Paris—The Louvre stripped—Death of Marshal Ney.
PART II
CHAPTER VI
MARCH-JUNE, 1816
Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington—An Adventure between
Saint Quentin and Compiègne—Paris revisited—Colonel Wardle and Mrs
Wallis—Society in Paris—The Sourds-Muets—The Cemetery of Père La
Chaise—Apathy of the French people—The priests—Marriage of the Duke de
Berri.
CHAPTER VII
Journey from Paris to Lausanne—Besançon—French refugees in Lausanne
—Francois Lamarque—General Espinassy—Bordas—Gautier—Michau—M. de
Laharpe—Mlle. Michaud—Levade, a Protestant minister—Chambéry—Aix
—Details about M. de Boigne's career in India—English Toryism and
intolerance—Valley of Maurienne—Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at
Suza—Turin.
CHAPTER VIII
Journey from Turin to Bologna—Asti—Schiller and Alfieri—Italian
cuisine—The vetturini—Marengo—Piacenza—The Trebbia—Parma—The Empress Maria Louisa—Modena—Bologna—The University—The Marescalchi Gallery—Character of the Bolognese.
CHAPTER IX
Journey across the Appennines to Florence—Tuscan idioms and customs—Monuments and galleries at Florence—The Cascino—Churches—Theatres—Popularity of the Grand Duke—Napoleon's downfall not regretted—Academies in Florence.
CHAPTER X
Journey from Florence to Rome—Sienna—Radicofani—Bolsena—Montefiascone wine—Viterbo—Baccano—The Roman Campagna—The papal douans—Monuments and Museums in Rome—Intolerance of the Catholic Christians—The Tiber and the bridges—Character of the Romans—The Palazzi and Ville—Canova's atelier—Theatricals—An execution in Rome.
CHAPTER XI
From Rome to Naples—Albano—Velletri—The Marshes—Terracina—Mola di
Gaeta—Capua—The streets of Naples—Monuments and Museums—Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius—Dangerous ventures—Puzzuoli and
Baiae—Theatres at Naples—Pulcinello—Return to Rome—Tivoli.
CHAPTER XII
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816
From Rome to Florence—Sismondi the historian—Reminiscences of
India—Lucca—Princess Elisa Baciqochi—Pisa—The Campo Santo—Leghorn—
Hebrews in Leghorn—Lord Dillon—The story of a lost glove—From Florence
to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis—Lombardy in winter—The
Hospice of Mont Cenis.
PART III