A Rich Brew. Shachar M. Pinsker

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one city’s cafés with them to another.

      As will become evident, this exploration of the role of urban cafés in modern Jewish culture follows not only a geographic-spatial axis but a chronological-historical one as well. As we journey across continents alongside the Jewish migrants, we will also journey through time to explore the unfolding histories of modern culture, of Jewish culture, and of café culture. In some cases, these histories overlap, and in others, they diverge. Thus, in eastern and central European cities, we will focus mainly on the period between the mid-nineteenth century—following the revolutions that swept Europe around 1848—and the 1930s, when the rise of the Nazis, World War II, and Sovietization eradicated much of café culture and the modern Jewish culture that flourished there. As our narrative spreads beyond Europe, so too does our chronology. In New York City, the development of both multilingual modern Jewish culture and café culture begins toward the end of the nineteenth century with the migration of Jews from European countries and ends in the post–World War II years. In Tel Aviv, these same processes occur between the first decade of the twentieth century and the 1960s.

      This book does not present a linear cultural history with clear points of beginning and ending for modern Jewish culture and café culture. Instead, it charts a spatial history and cultural geography of Jewish modernity through the lens of the café, through the embrace of both national and transnational contexts, and through partly overlapping geographies and chronologies. Moreover, while the book is organized around specific cities and the particular geography of each city, much of the exploration highlights the fundamentally transnational network of migration and Jewish diasporic culture that find their nexus in urban cafés. This migration is core to the story of modern Jewish culture that emerges here. In other words, Agnon was in good company.

      Almost all of the men and women who appear in this book migrated from one city to another, or to many others, sometimes for a few weeks or months, sometimes for years. Without fail, they find a café, or more than one, in each of these cities, compare them, take something from one café to another, and create the ebb and flow of the interactions and negotiations that occurred in them. Though they are Jews on the move, between cities and between cafés, they remain Jews, even as they pick up new languages, passports, identities, politics, and sometimes even a new religious identity. The result, it becomes clear, is that urban cafés are at the heart of Jewish modernity, and a better understanding of their crucial position reshapes our understanding of modern Jewish culture.

      In order to bring readers into the world of Jewish café culture, this book makes use of newspaper articles, memoirs, letters, and archival documents, as well as photographs, caricatures, and artwork. However, the material that has survived the passage of time is partial. The cafés themselves and the activities that took place in them belong to the ephemeral realm of everyday life. We have no immediate, physical access to these cafés, which is particularly disappointing, since the reason why they were generative was precisely their palpable reality. Alas, most of these places do not exist today, and the one or two that do resemble a museum more than a living institution. As with all history, we must make do with what is available; we must resort to the written descriptions of these places, fictional and factual alike, and to photographs, drawings, and paintings. Like all evidence, these are subjective and yet highly instructive. Each of our sources refracts the reality of cafés in different ways, distorting some aspects, illuminating others. The gaps and imperfections of our sources can be frustrating, and yet they are in some way fitting, reminding us of the fundamental ambiguity and constructed quality of the café—its thirdspace—and its ephemeral qualities.

      Literary works—stories, novels, poems—that take place in cafés and that were written by Jews in Hebrew, Yiddish, German, English, Russian, and Polish are a particularly crucial source. Texts such as Agnon’s Tmol shilshom, which are rife with descriptions of cafés, are important sources because their writers, who were habitués of cafés, constantly employed the coffeehouse as a thirdspace. These literary texts are not to be taken simply as historical documents, but they give us a better understanding of how Jews—locals and migrants, poor and rich, bohemian and bourgeois, as well as the writers themselves—experienced the space of the café as a contested locus of urban Jewish modernity. Throughout this book, we will give special attention to the feuilleton: the hybrid literary-journalistic form of the sketch that mixed cultural criticism with storytelling. The feuilleton originated in Paris’s newspapers in 1800 but became popular all over Europe in the period covered in this book. The feuilleton also became central in modern Jewish culture all over Europe and beyond, in German, Russian, Hebrew, Yiddish, and Polish languages. As we shall see, the feuilleton was also linked to Jewishness and café culture from the time Heinrich Heine wrote his Briefe aus Berlin (Letters from Berlin) in 1822.44

      The literary texts considered in this book were written by a broad expanse of Jewish authors, including Heinrich Heine, Sholem Aleichem, S. Y. Agnon, Isaac Bashevis Singer, Joseph Roth, Isaac Babel, Theodor Herzl, Else Lasker-Schüler, Sholem Asch, Julian Tuwim, Leah Goldberg, Aharon Appelfeld, and many writers who are not as well known today. In one way or another, these writers made the café a dominant aspect of their fiction, poetry, essays, and memoirs, using this thirdspace as a microcosm of urban, modern Jewish experience on multiple continents. Transnational Jewish modernity was thus born in the café, nourished there, and sent out into the world of print, politics, literature, visual arts, and theater. In this way, what was experienced and created in the space of the coffeehouse influenced thousands who read, saw, and imbibed a modern Jewish culture that redefined what it means to be a Jew in the world.

      1

      Odessa

      Jewish Sages, Luftmenshen, Gangsters, and the Odessit in the Café

      In Odessa, the destitute luftmenshen roam through cafés, trying to make a ruble or two to feed their families, but there is no money to be made, and why should anyone give work to a useless person—a luftmensh?

      —Isaac Babel, “Odessa,” 1916

      In 1921, after World War I, the Bolshevik Revolution, and Russian civil wars, many Jews left Odessa and migrated to other cities in Europe, America, and Palestine. Among them was Leon Feinberg, a Yiddish and Russian poet, writer, and translator. He traveled first to Tel Aviv but shortly thereafter settled in New York City. In 1954, Feinberg published a poema, a novel-in-verse titled Der farmishpeter dor (The doomed generation), that gave a voice to a generation of Jews who grew up in Odessa and ended up in America. They experienced from afar the destruction of European Jewry in the Holocaust, as well as the Stalin purges. The first part of his novel-in-verse is “Odessa,” a poetic representation of this port city at the turn of the twentieth century. Several of the poems follow Nyuma Feldman, a character from the poor neighborhood of Moldavanka, who speaks “Odessan language”—Russian tinged with Yiddish—and goes between Café Fanconi and Café Robina in the city center. In these cafés, historical figures mix freely with fictional characters crafted by celebrated Jewish writers such as Sholem Aleichem, S. Y. Abramovitsh, and Isaac Babel.1

      What are these cafés, and why were they important for Feinberg and others who remembered them so vividly in New York and elsewhere after many years? The cafés played a key role in the development of modern Jewish culture in the port city of Odessa, as part of an interconnected diasporic network that developed during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Odessa’s history is unique, especially in the half century before the collapse of the Russian Empire and the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917 and the subsequent Sovietization of the city. In this period, the southern city of Odessa was perceived as a center of newfound Jewish freedom from strictures of both Jewish traditional life and the Russian regime. The mythic status of Odessa and its persistent image as a “Jewish city” have been documented by historians and literary scholars alike.2 Odessa cafés have been part of both the history and the myth of the city and thus are our first example of a thirdspace, that liminal space between the real and the imaginary that can help us to understand both. Examining the confluence between the city’s cafés,

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