the spelling of his name was slightly changed in the process. Originally, Matador was not an actual town, but was a working ranch in the county created and managed by Henry H. Campbell. When organizing the county in 1891, the General Land Office required that there be at least twenty commercial enterprises in Matador before designating it the county seat. Campbell encouraged several local men to set up one-day businesses to fulfill the requirement, and the town of Matador was officially born. He also became the town’s first elected judge.
A growing number of outlaws became such a problem in the area, that in 1891 the Motley County Jail was erected to help keep offenders under control. The jail construction provided a much needed resource for men to generate a small income to support their families, as business and money-making opportunities were scarce at the time. The building’s sandstone was manually hauled in by workers from Salt Creek, about five miles west of Matador; it was no easy task to complete. Upon completion, the top floor of the two-story structure housed the cells, while the lower level was made into living quarters for the jailer.
Tom Fulcher, a handsome local, was one of the first people to occupy space in the new jail after he was arrested for the murder of a man by the name of Mr. Beamer. The community of Matador was shocked by the arrest, but not nearly as shocked as they would be when Fulcher somehow quickly managed to break free. He was sentenced to life imprisonment for the offense, but never spent any additional time in prison.
A cowboy named Joe Beckham was appointed to become the town’s first sheriff, though his service to Matador was less of a priority for him than his outlaw ways. During the Oklahoma Land Giveaway, Beckham left the state of Texas to stake a claim of his own and was replaced as sheriff by a man who eventually arrested Beckham for fraud upon his return to Matador. District Judge Billy McGill ruled that the current sheriff had been illegally appointed, and chose to replace him with someone new rather than restoring Beckham’s title. Needless to say, Beckham was not pleased with the situation and decided instead to exact his own justice by arresting the new sheriff along with his deputies and hauling them off to jail himself. As a result, the governor of Texas sent Texas Rangers in to deal with the issue. They eventually caught up with Beckham in the Indian Territory of Oklahoma and shot him to death.
In the decades that have since passed, the Motley County Jail housed a fair amount of offenders until it closed in 1982. Earlier, in 1976, the jail had been recognized as a Texas Historic Landmark and remains today as a reminder of the frontier history of the state.
On my way out to Matador with Allen, I enjoyed driving through what seemed like dozens of sparsely populated towns. Matador itself has a population of less than one thousand people—three hundred shy of its high in 1940. The buildings downtown sit alongside typical old-town roads, with wider than normal streets and businesses lined up right next to one another. The Motley County Jail sits just beyond the downtown strip, disconnected and solitary.
I can only imagine what life would have been like for those spending any amount of time behind bars in the jail, as they awaited their sentences and served their time for whatever crimes they may have committed. It is quite possible that the wide range of emotions flowing in and out of the jail during its many years of operation have left some residual energy behind that today’s caretakers and visitors experience as legitimate paranormal phenomena.
Lance Brooks, co-founder of the research group Texas Spirit Seekers didn’t initially set out to investigate the jail. In fact, he and his team had traveled out to the area to investigate a private residence, and when the appointment was canceled, case manager James Leslie suggested they check out the Motley County Jail instead. Lance thought it would be a good training exercise for his team, but did not expect it to yield any impressive results.
“We initially thought this would just be a good practice run for our team—an opportunity to set up our equipment and make sure we had our process down. We’d had no reports of anyone experiencing paranormal activity in the building,” Lance said. “If they had experienced something, they certainly weren’t saying anything about it.”
During their initial investigation, Lance was taken aback when the distinctly old-fashioned scent of rosewater caught his attention. No one in the building was wearing anything remotely aromatic, and certainly did not use or have access to anything that would have produced the scent, so Lance took note of it and continued on with the investigation.
“The building smelled dank and musty—the sort of wet stone smell you would expect in a building this old and unoccupied for a long period of time,” Lance explained. “The rosewater smell would unexpectedly come and go, especially when we moved from one floor to the next. It was my impression that something was trying to lead us away from the upper floor because as soon as we detected the scent in the jail cell area, we would follow it to the lower floor where it would suddenly dissipate.”
In discussing the occurrence with the town historian following his visit, Lance was surprised to learn an interesting fact. A man who had been convicted of a crime and locked up just after the jail opened had reportedly used a type of balmy, rosewater-scented substance to lubricate the cell bars, allowing him to slip through them and escape. The scent was sometimes strongly pronounced, yet subtle and barely detectible at others.
Pleasant scents are not the only thing the members of TSS experienced during their time in the old frontier structure. Members Chris Travis and James Leslie were troubleshooting an issue with a piece of equipment when they noticed something in one of the cells. For a brief moment, they both witnessed what looked like a person leaning out from the bunk and stretching out an arm in their direction. Just as quickly as the apparition appeared to them, it vanished. A short while later, while the group was descending the stairs, the figure of a woman appeared near the bottom step and stood looking at them. She too disappeared out of sight within a matter of seconds.
“I unfortunately did not see the woman’s apparition,” said Lance, “but Chris and James had seen her twice that evening, and both times on the staircase. The rosewater scent was also very prevalent at the time she appeared, so we’re not sure if it is associated with her, Mr. Fulcher, or has some other explanation entirely.”
Teresa, another of the group’s co-founders, reported that upon entering the gallows area on the upper floor, she began to feel dizzy and sick to her stomach, ultimately forcing her to exit the building in order to recover. No definitive cause for her sudden illness was discovered.
“I hadn’t been near the gallows for more than five minutes when I began to feel really sick, and I just felt the need to get out of the building for awhile to get some fresh air. I knew from past experiences that this feeling meant I needed to leave, so I paid attention. After spending some time sitting outside, I returned but decided to spend the rest of the investigation on the lower level of the jail rather than returning to the second floor.”
Lance and the TSS team continue to think of the building as an “unexpected hotbed of paranormal activity.” Standing as a reminder of all that once was in the rich stories of Texas’ past, the Motley County Jail may indeed be home to the restless spirits of those once physically held there.
CHAPTER 3
Fort Phantom Hill
ABILENE / HOLLY
Fort Phantom Hill guardhouse (April Slaughter)
FROM A VERY YOUNG AGE, I have possessed a desire to step out of the present and into the past; to see and experience history and the world around me as it once was. I grew up fascinated with old and forgotten things. I had much more fun roaming around abandoned houses and exploring hidden cemeteries in the hills than I ever did playing at the local public
