Ghosthunting Maryland. Michael J. Varhola
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Baltimore/Jonestown Neighborhood
Fells Point (Southeast Baltimore)
West Baltimore
Westminster Hall Burying Ground
CHAPTER 1
Ghost Ships of the Inner Harbor
BALTIMORE/INNER HARBOR
USS Torsk is believed by some to be haunted by the ghost of a sailor drowned while trying to get back into the submarine before it submerged.
… these sites are usually inhabited by the spirits of those who died tragically aboard the vessel. Generally, the ghosts aboard follow many of the same rules of their haunted house cousins, although they usually haunt much smaller venues and must restrict their activities considerably. In addition, [they] seem to possess a uniform sadness.
—W. Haden Blackman, The Field Guide to North American Hauntings
INNUMERABLE VESSELS have passed through Baltimore harbor over the more than three centuries that the city has served as one of the most important ports in North America. Some of these have come to stay for good and, like historic buildings, have been restored and can today be visited at Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. Also like historic buildings, a great many of them—all storied vessels and in several cases veterans of combat in foreign seas or other harrowing action—have ghost stories associated with them. And many of them, even those that are not “officially” occupied by ghosts, participate in “haunted ship” events around Halloween.
I most recently visited the Inner Harbor and its haunted vessels in June 2009, with my friend Brendan Cass and his mother Susan Cass. That was by no means my first time, however, and ever since I first visited Baltimore as a child nearly four decades ago, and as the various ships have come and gone, I have increasingly come to know them and the ghosts that haunt them.
USS CONSTELLATION
Perhaps the most haunted ship in the Inner Harbor—also, probably not coincidentally, the oldest—is USS Constellation. Just how old is not entirely clear, however, and a passionate debate has raged for years over whether the ship actually dates to the late eighteenth century or the mid-nineteenth century. Some explanation is in order.
In 1797, the U.S. Navy launched USS Constellation—its first ship with that name—a 1,265-ton frigate built in Baltimore that was 164 feet long, 41 feet wide, with a draft of 13 feet, 6 inches, a crew of 340, and armament consisting of thirty-eight twenty-four-pound long guns. For more than five decades, this vessel served the United States around the world, participating in missions throughout the waters of Africa, South America, the West Indies, the East Indies, Hawaii, and the Mediterranean. USS Constellation was, in fact, one of the ships that carried U.S. Marines “to the shores of Tripoli” in North Africa in 1805. It was active in several wars, defeating a number of powerful warships in the 1798–1800 Quasi-War with France and participating in the Barbary Wars, the Seminole Wars, and the War of 1812. By 1853, it had reached the end of its useful service, and it was dismantled at the Navy Yard in Norfolk, Virginia. Its name, however, was never stricken from Navy records.
That year, the Navy began construction of a slightly larger sloop-of-war that apparently incorporated elements of USS Constellation and was underwritten in part with funds allocated to rebuild the earlier vessel. Commissioned as USS Constellation in 1854, this fourteen-hundred-ton ship was 179 feet long, 41 feet wide, had a draft of 21 feet, and carried a crew of 240 and armaments consisting of sixteen eight-inch shell guns and four thirty-two-pound pivot guns. It served in actions off the coasts of Spain, Cuba, the Congo, and Turkey, and fought in the Civil War, against Confederate commerce raiders in the Mediterranean and blockade runners in the West Indies and along the Atlantic coast of the southern United States. Used in various training and ceremonial roles in the decades following the Civil War, USS Constellation was finally decommissioned in 1933—but was briefly and incredibly returned to service as an admiral’s relief flagship during World War II!
USS Constellation is haunted by the spirits of several former members of its crew.
Decommissioned for the final time in 1955, USS Constellation was moved to Baltimore. Over the following decade, it was restored to … the appearance of the original 1797 vessel. This, perhaps more than anything, has contributed to the controversy over the provenance of the ship. Thereafter, it served as an off-and-on historic attraction, but lack of funding meant that it was frequently too decrepit to be on public display or for people to board. Since 1999, the ship has been berthed at the Inner Harbor and is now seaworthy, being periodically sailed to nearby ports like Annapolis, Maryland—where it has served as a floating museum.
In the years following its decommissioning, USS Constellation has increasingly gained a public reputation for being strongly haunted, especially following a famous investigation by ghosthunter Hans Holzer. Ghosts from both incarnations of the vessel have been identified in these endeavors.
But the haunted history of USS Constellation actually begins much earlier, and starts no later than June 20, 1863, during the Civil War, as indicated by an entry in the diary of Moses Safford, the ranking staff petty officer on board at that time.
According to Safford, cook’s mate Ike Simmons had begun telling people that two sailors who had recently died on board the ship had appeared before him and begun dancing and singing. This had a disturbing effect upon many of the other crewmen and the captain had Simmons locked up in the ship’s brig. But other sailors had similar experiences.
“Twice on stormy nights last fall, Campbell, the captain of the forecastle, whom we lost in the Atlantic, was supposed to have been seen standing near the lee cathead,” Safford wrote in his journal. “Whatever may be the explanation of these phenomena, the sentences which Simmons has received will tend to discourage the men from giving undue publicity to their supernatural observations.”
Since this early account—and especially since the vessel was put on public display—many more episodes of paranormal phenomena have been reported on board USS Constellation and a number of specific ghosts identified.
One of these is Commodore Thomas Truxtun, a career naval officer who was the first commander of USS Constellation and who led it to glory in the Quasi-War with France. That was the pinnacle of his more-than-thirty years of service, and soon thereafter he retired under less than desirable circumstances. And so, while conventional accounts suggest his spirit haunts the vessel as the result of his brutal nature, it seems much more likely that he spent his best and happiest years upon USS Constellation and has thus simply been unwilling to leave it.
It may be that the first sighting of Truxtun occurred in 1955, by U.S. Navy personnel assigned to a vessel berthed alongside USS Constellation. One night at 11:59, an officer on board that vessel took a blurry picture of an apparition that looks like it may be Truxtun and the Baltimore Sun ran it soon thereafter. The haunting was now a matter of public record.