but like paper pellets, they’re a bit lacking in the comfort department. Hardwood shavings are softer, but they’re messier and less absorbent.
Some owners find that they get the best results by using two layers of commercial bedding. For example, they might put aspen pellets on the bottom of the cage for absorbency and top these with a layer of wood pulp fiber or hay for comfort.
Since guinea pigs need large cages, the cost of packaged bedding can really add up over time. Nowadays, lots of guinea pig owners are getting away from packaged pet bedding and are using fabric instead. Non-pilling polyester fleece—the thicker the better—is the fabric of choice because it’s soft and wicks away pet urine. Some people buy a piece just large enough to cover the coroplast floor of the cage. Other people buy a piece big enough to go up and over the sides as well. Then, they secure the fleece to the sides with binder clips to keep it in place.
Fleece by itself doesn’t make a good fabric floor; you also need a layer of material under the fleece to absorb the wicked-away urine. There are lots of different absorbent materials you can use, such as thick cotton towels, microfiber towels, washable hospital pads, washable or disposable pet/puppy pads, waterproof crib pads, or thick layers of polyester quilt batting. You could also go to a fabric shop and buy some waterproof mattress padding by the yard. You can even layer a couple of different materials for maximum absorbency and odor control. For example, if you put folded towels under the fleece, and washable hospital pads under the towels, your guinea pigs’ environment will stay super dry.
Another convenient option is to buy one of the ready-made triple-layered bedspreads that are specially designed to fit the coroplast trays of C&C cages. Or, you can buy one of the fitted fleece sheets made for C&C cages and provide your own absorbent material for underneath the fleece. These colorful bedspreads and sheets can also be custom-made for odd-sized cages.
A fleece floor is cozy and comfy.
Although the initial cost of fabric bedding can be fairly high, most of this bedding is washable and reusable, so over time it will be a lot cheaper than the throw-away commercial pet bedding. Be sure to wash the fleece three or four times before using it so that it becomes soft and absorbent. When it’s cleanup time, shake off or vacuum up the feces and hair, then machine wash the bedding in hot water, using scent-free detergent and a little vinegar, but no fabric softener–fabric softener reduces absorbency. Then tumble dry without dryer sheets. To avoid excessive static, remove the fleece from the dryer while it is still slightly damp, and let it air dry. Here’s a handy hint: it’s a good idea to buy a larger piece of fabric than you need, because hot water and the hot air of a dryer can sometimes shrink the fleece.
How often will you need to wash the bedding? This depends on how many guinea pigs you have and how sensitive your nose is!
A hidey house is a must
In the wild, guinea pigs have many predators, and their only defense is to run away and hide. Domestic guinea pigs share this built-in fear of predators, so they need a hidey house or two in their cage where they can hole up and feel safe. Cavies also use a hidey house when they want to feel relaxed or stress-free, or when they want to be alone. For the ins and outs of hideaways, see Chapter 9.
A vet for your pet
Guinea pigs don’t need yearly vaccinations, but if you think this means they never need to see a veterinarian, think again. Like other pets, cavies should have a yearly examination so that any potential problems can be caught early and treated.
Don’t procrastinate when it comes to finding a vet. Since emergencies can happen in the blink of an eye, you should have a veterinarian lined up from day one. Call the pet clinics in your area and find out which ones take guinea pig patients. This is important because not all vets have experience in treating cavies.
As soon as you find a veterinarian, start putting aside a little money every month into a “vet fund.” This way, you’ll always have money on hand for any medical emergencies that crop up.
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