m) to the tree line at 10,500 to 11,000 feet (3200 to 3350 m), features conifers of dwindling size and density, including Western white pines, lodgepole pines, and ancient foxtail pines that live for up to three thousand years. At tree line, most trees become little more than shrubs that often grow in a prostrated form known as krummholz, until they disappear entirely at the boundary of icy alpine habitats that lie beneath snow for most of the year.
A CHANGING CLIMATE
Beginning in 2012, the state of California experienced its worst drought in over a thousand years. Most climate scientists correlate the intensity of this drought with the exacerbating effects of climate change, which for California can be summed up in two words: warmer and drier. A corresponding rise in average temperatures has reduced the amount of precipitation that falls as snow, which in turn has led to a reduced snowpack. As a result, the conifer belt has begun to experience an unprecedented die-off. Between 2010 and 2018, ecologists estimate that over 130 million conifers succumbed to drought-related causes and bark beetle infestations through the central and southern Sierra Nevada. Consistent rises in temperatures coupled with diminished snowpacks in the future suggest that the sequoia groves and the great western Sierra conifer belt face an uncertain future, especially as uncontrollable summer wildfires become the new normal across the West.
FAUNA
The vast forests of the western Sierra Nevada shelter a wide array of wildlife, ranging from seldom-seen salamanders to an active population of black bears. Hikers, particularly early birds, have a good chance of experiencing this diverse spectrum of fauna as they explore the trails.
Mammals. The western Sierra Nevada hosts a variety of mammals—seventy-two total species to be exact. Included within this tally are mule deer, yellow-bellied marmots, ground and tree squirrels, chipmunks, martens, pikas, foxes, bobcats, a variety of bats, and a variety of other rodents. In addition, the two largest mammals, and easily the two animals that cause visitors the most concern, are the California black bear and the mountain lion. Both animals can be found throughout the range and at most elevations, although hikers are very unlikely to encounter mountain lions. This guide includes pertinent safety information on both animals in the Safety section.
A juvenile black bear pauses during his evening buffet.
Reptiles. Herpetology fanatics will find plenty to enjoy in the Sequoia and Kings Canyon regions. Visitors may encounter a variety of venomous and nonvenomous snakes throughout the park, including common species such as rattlesnakes (see the Safety section for more on these guys), gopher snakes, garter snakes, racers, and king snakes. Of these snakes, few are more beautiful than the California mountain king snake. Mountain king snakes have a distinctive tricolor pattern of red, black, and white that often arranges in bands. A number of small lizards scamper about on rocks and bask in the sun, especially in the foothills and lower elevation forests.
Amphibians. Among the region’s local frogs, the Sierra Nevada yellow-legged frog and the southern yellow-legged frog populations have declined by as much as 90 percent over the last hundred years. Much of this decline occurred as a result of the introduction of non-native trout species, which feast on the eggs and tadpoles that the frog lays in sunny areas of ponds, creeks, and lakes. Wherever non-native trout have been removed, frog populations have rebounded. The endemic Sequoia salamander lives primarily within the Kaweah watershed between elevations of 1600 feet (490 m) and 7200 feet (2190 m) in coniferous forests and riparian woodlands. This species is critically imperiled. The other amphibian that you might see is the Sierra newt. Shaped much like a lizard, but infinitely cuter, these red critters crawl slowly while camouflaged along the forest floor in damp areas, so watch where you put your feet in those habitats.
Birds. Over two hundred species of birds reside throughout both parks and the adjacent national forests. Look up into the sky during your explorations of the foothill areas, and it’s likely that you will see any number of large raptors soaring in circles high above, gliding along on the thermals and scouring the ground for any sign of movement. The most commonly sighted raptors in the park are the hawks, including red-tailed hawks, red-shouldered hawks, northern goshawks, Cooper’s hawk, and the migratory Swainson’s hawk.
Far larger and more dramatic are the range’s two resident eagle species, the bald eagle and the golden eagle, two human-averse species that occupy old conifer snags adjacent to watercourses or lakes. The Sierra Nevada also hosts several different species of owls. Owls are seldom seen by most hikers since they prefer to hunt from dusk until dawn. Invisible though they may seem to humans, it is not uncommon to hear owls hooting throughout the night. Small burrowing owls inhabit the former burrows of ground squirrels in open grassy areas throughout the foothills.
The Corvidae genus includes crows, ravens, jays, and nutcrackers. Crows and their larger cousins, ravens, are clever birds with long memories and are often found around inhabited areas. Picnickers in the parks are likely to encounter the Steller’s jay. This jay’s beautiful blue plumage invites initial interest, but turn your back for a second, and these ill-mannered birds are likely to steal whatever snack you were about to eat.
Another avian curiosity found within the red fir–lodgepole belt is the grouse. This large, blue-mottled bird uses its color to camouflage itself on the forest floor. Male grouses create a deep, booming noise that can carry for up to a mile or so.
MUST-SEE SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES
Both parks feature a number of memorable highlights, only some of which include hiking. Be sure to save some time in your itinerary for a few of these must-see attractions.
HOSPITAL ROCK
The first white man to explore the region we now call Sequoia National Park, Hale Tharp, encountered the indigenous Monache near this location. The Monache treated Tharp’s friend for an injury next to the large pictograph panel just north of Buckeye Flat Road. This beautiful foothill destination features a picnic area, a short access trail that reaches the Middle Fork Kaweah River, and several other native features in addition to Hospital Rock itself.
CRYSTAL CAVE
The Sequoia and Kings Canyon frontcountry is littered with caves caused by eons of erosion that gouged out softer metamorphic rocks. Crystal Cave is one of only two that are open for visitation, the other being Boyden Cave in Sequoia National Forest. Reservations can be made online at www.recreation.gov, and you can obtain your ticket at the trailhead for the short path that descends nearly 400 feet (122 m) to the mouth of Crystal Cave. Several options for exploring the cave range from a short, family-friendly tour to a half-day spelunking adventure.
The President stands as the third tallest sequoia in the world (Route 21).
GIANT FOREST MUSEUM
The Giant Forest Museum provides an overview of climate,
