bay, extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in the plain below the Organ Mountain—the sea, studded with numerous picturesque islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it, and seen to a great distance—all together form a most enchanting picture, and amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of granite rock, like all others in this country, but thickly wooded almost to the summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare point before alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence of the tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base of the hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of the city, on ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently, the streets are low, without drainage, and in several of the back ones the water collects and stagnates, to the great detriment of health and comfort. Rio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon—streets at right angles, a large square facing the sea, and the suburbs extending up the hills which everywhere meet your eye. In Lisbon the streets are tolerably wide, but here they have built them so miserably narrow, that scarcely even one carriage can pass through, much less pass each other; and it is evident that such vehicles were never contemplated in the original formation of these streets. The only way of getting over the difficulty is for carriages coming into the city to take one line of streets, and those leaving it another, which they do, excluding omnibuses altogether from the principal thoroughfares. Improvements in this way were what I found most backward; indeed there was a marked falling-off in such respect since I was last here, and there seems a great want of municipal government.[2] In many places the pavement is execrable, and generally very bad, the difficulty having been probably increased by laying down mains for water and gas, the latter now in process of execution, and also to heavy rains having washed away many parts of the road, and otherwise caused much damage. Once this troublesome job is got through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures will be taken to put the streets and branch roads in order; otherwise they will soon be rendered impassable. Coach and coach-spring making must be thriving trades here, especially with the immense increase that has taken place in the number of carriages and omnibuses; and it is really wonderful how they stand the continual shocks they have to endure.[3] Government seems at last alive to the absolute necessity of doing something to improve the sanitary condition of the city, and also its internal organization, as they have lately got out some good practical English engineers, who I have no doubt will suggest an effective mode of dealing with present difficulties. If they do not adopt decisive measures the rate of mortality may be expected to augment fearfully in a dense population of 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, huddled together in some 15,000 houses, surrounded by impurities of every kind, not the least being the stagnant water in the streets. No exact census has ever been taken of the population of Rio Janeiro, which is generally believed to be between the two figures above given. There is a migratory population, but the accumulation of humanity of every race and colour, contained in some of the large dwelling-houses, is something extraordinary. As before observed, nature has done much for this country, and if the natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were properly availed of, and local improvements carried out with energy and spirit, it might be rendered one of the finest and most luxuriant places within the tropics.[4] The opportunity is now open to them; the Government possess ample means, and it is just a question whether measures of progress are to be effectively achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. The great evil attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue appreciation of native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of those whose practical experience would enable them to grapple with the difficulties that surround them—a kind of little jealousy or distrust that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities thrown in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the well-being of the country: nor can they understand the principle on which such things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude of operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe. Yet the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better understood here, and when the application of English capital towards the improvement of the country may be safely and legitimately brought to bear.
I quote this in order to point out the increase of population and improvements which have been carried out in the city since it was written, and amongst which may be enumerated:—
The paving of streets, drainage works, &c.
Lighting the city with gas.
Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of all kinds.
Public gardens and ornamental squares.
Railways and tramways.
First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building be any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable. Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c. Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare advantageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was twenty years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will long be remembered as public benefactors in this part of the world. I had not time to examine these great works in detail, but shall avail of an opportunity on my return to do so. Gas has been most successfully introduced, both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, and it must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on oil lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, but every suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly adding to comfort and security. Under these circumstances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that the gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather a curious effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from the thick foliage of tropical plants, as if in competition with the fire-flies dancing about.
Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and Tilburys. The former are plain enough in appearance, but are drawn by four mules at a good speed. The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses, and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with cover, to hold one person with the driver. The fares, considering the distances traversed, are on the whole moderate, although charges in this respect are complained of. The Public Gardens have been very much improved since I was last here, and under the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and the view of the bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save the rumble of carriages passing along the streets. Another public garden has been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, where there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world, affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present my sojourn in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital.
The terrible
