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to that of the S. cerevisiae MET2 gene, with the exception of one nucleotide. The sequence of the other allele is 98.5% similar to that of S. uvarum. The presence of this allele is thus probably due to an interspecific cross.

Schematic illustration of electrophoresis in agarose gel (1.8%) of (a) EcoR1 and (b) Pst1 digestions of the amplified fragments of the MET2 gene of the hybrid strain.

      1.9.1 General Principles

      The principal yeast species involved in grape must fermentation, particularly S. cerevisiae and S. uvarum, comprise a very large number of strains with extremely varied technological properties. The yeast strains involved during winemaking influence fermentation speed, the nature and quantity of secondary products formed during alcoholic fermentation, and the aroma characteristics of the wine. The ability to differentiate between the different strains of S. cerevisiae is required for the following fields: the ecological study of wild yeasts responsible for the spontaneous fermentation of grape must, the selection of strains presenting the best enological qualities, production and marketing controls, the verification of the implantation of selected yeasts used as yeast starter, and the constitution and maintenance of wild or selected yeast collections.

      The initial research on infraspecific differentiation within S. cerevisiae attempted to distinguish strains by electrophoretic analysis of their exocellular (Bouix et al., 1981) or intracellular (Van Vuuren and Van Der Meer, 1987) proteins or glycoproteins. Other teams proposed identifying the strains by the analysis of long‐chain fatty acids using gas chromatography (Tredoux et al., 1987; Augustyn et al., 1991; Bendova et al., 1991; Rozes et al., 1992). Although these different techniques differentiate between certain strains, they are irrefutably less discriminating than genetic differentiation methods. They also present the major drawback of depending on the physiological state of the strains and on cultural conditions, which must always be identical.

      In the late 1980s, owing to the development of genetics, certain techniques from molecular biology were successfully applied to characterize wine yeast strains. They are based on the clonal polymorphism of the mitochondrial and genomic DNA of S. cerevisiae and S. uvarum. These genetic methods are independent of the physiological state of the yeast, unlike the previous techniques based on the analysis of metabolism by‐products.

      1.9.2 Mitochondrial DNA Analysis

      The mtDNA of S. cerevisiae has two remarkable properties: it is extremely polymorphic, depending on the strain; and stable (it mutates very little) during vegetative reproduction. Restriction endonucleases (such as EcoR5) cut this DNA at specific sites. This process generates fragments of variable size that are few in number and can be separated by electrophoresis on agarose gel.

      Aigle et al. (1984) first applied this technique to brewer's yeasts. Since 1987, it has been used for the characterization of enological strains of S. cerevisiae (Dubourdieu et al., 1987; Hallet et al., 1988).

      Defontaine et al. (1991) and Querol et al. (1992) simplified this protocol by separating the mitochondria from the other cell constituents before extracting the DNA. In this manner, they avoided the ultracentrifugation step. The coarse cellular debris is eliminated from the yeast lysate by centrifuging at 1,000 g. The supernatant is then recentrifuged at 15,000 g to obtain the mitochondria. The mitochondria are then lysed in a suitable buffer to liberate the DNA.

Schematic illustration of restriction profile by EcoR5 of mtDNA of different strains of S. cerevisiae.

      This technique is very discriminating and not too expensive, but it is long and requires several complex manipulations. It is useful for the subtle characterization of a small number of strains. Inoculation effectiveness can also be verified by this method. In the laboratory, the lees, sampled during or toward the end of alcoholic fermentation, are cultured in a liquid medium. The mtDNA restriction profiles of this total biomass and of the yeast starter

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