the neighborhood is attractive to both locals and visitors.
Figure 1.1. Kernel Density of Highly Rated Restaurants in Central San Diego and San Diego County (2016–2017). Map created by author using 2016–2018 data from Yelp, Eater, Thrillist, Zagat, San Diego Magazine, and San Diego Brewers’ Guild.
The density of positive restaurant reviews in North Park and Barrio Logan is geographically tied to gentrification. As figure 1.2 illustrates, several of the noteworthy restaurants are located in census tracts that are considered “eligible to gentrify” and are adjacent to previously gentrified tracts and already established entertainment zones.3
Figure 1.2. Gentrification Trends and Location of Highly Rated Restaurants in Central San Diego, including Barrio Logan and North Park (2016–2017). Map created by author using data from the US Census of Population and Housing 1990–2010 and the American Community Survey 5-year Estimates (2016).
Areas that were recently gentrified or are on the cusp of gentrification appear to draw much attention from the food media. In contrast, those that show few signs of change, such as southeastern San Diego, rarely have a restaurant reviewed. Similarly, more established areas, that are either affluent (e.g., Mission Hills) or were gentrified decades ago (e.g., Hillcrest), lose their appeal to consumers in search of trendier places and food adventures. These patterns reflect the ebb and flows of capital that underlie uneven urban development (Smith 1996), suggesting an intimate relationship between production/economy and consumption/culture in the process of gentrification, as we noted earlier in the theoretical section of this chapter.
Authenticity, Democracy, and Community
What type of restaurants locate in gentrifying neighborhoods and what does it say about their potential role in this process of neighborhood transformation? To answer this question, we turned our attention to the content of restaurant reviews and created word clouds—a visualization tool increasingly used by geographers in exploratory qualitative data analysis to identify frequently used terms (Cidell 2010).4 Figure 1.3 reveals the one hundred most common terms used by consumers and professionals in their online reviews, with font sizes proportional to word frequencies.
Several key themes stand out, as previously identified in the literature on contemporary urban foodscapes (Joassart-Marcelli and Bosco 2018a; Johnston and Baumann 2010; Zukin et al. 2009). First, authenticity and cosmopolitanism appear to be of great importance to many consumers, who value food and dining experiences reflecting their appreciation of ethnic diversity and knowledge of exotic cuisine. For many, this is associated with a sense of discovery and a willingness to trade certain amenities like safety, speed, décor, and even cleanliness for “authentic” food. This is especially true in Barrio Logan, which is often described in the media as a “rough” neighborhood with a rich Chicano culture. For example, Las Cuatro Milpas is one of the most frequently reviewed restaurants:
Mexican food doesn’t get more authentic on this side of the border than at Las Cuatro Milpas. Don’t be deterred by the line. You just have to accept the fact that there is always a line, so stand in it like everyone else has been doing for the last 82 years. (Jackson and Norris 2016)
I can’t believe such delicious food could come out of a hole in a wall. I thought this place might be one of those secret joints that only locals know about, but apparently yelpers are in the know! The diners are mostly locals and most of the workers don’t speak a lot of English. It can be a little intimidating when ordering since the lines are long and there’s really not much of a menu. We basically got almost one of everything. It feels truly authentic and their food reflects that. The decor is bare and nothing fancy. Just some old tables and chairs with tablecloths over them in an open room with brown tiled floors. EVERYTHING is ridiculously delicious and tastes like it’s been made by a Mexican grandmother. (Yelp 2018)
Figure 1.3a–b. Word Clouds of Common Terms Used in Reviews of Ten Most Popular Restaurants in North Park and Barrio Logan. Author’s computation based on Yelp, Eater, Zagat, and Thrillist top reviews of ten most popular restaurants (2018).
The ability to identify authentic food is an important aspect of cosmopolitan taste, which distinguishes foodies from other consumers who presumably do not have the knowledge or interest to venture out of their comfort zone to try new foods. Yet, as Heldke (2003) and others have noted, claims of authenticity are usually made by outsiders and therefore reflect a position of power and appropriation. Indeed, reviews suggest that authenticity is a contested and evolving idea, with outsiders’ understanding of authenticity clashing with that of long-term residents. For instance, out-of-town visitors “really felt like [they] were living an authentic Chicano cultural experience” or had “somehow crossed the border” at ¡Salud!. However, a long-term Barrio Logan resident disagreed:
All these people writing these great reviews saying how great their tacos are don’t know what good tacos are or haven’t had any great tacos in their life. I’m just being honest with everyone. I ordered three tacos de carne asada which almost have identical taste as those from [a less hyped local taco shop]. The Birria was decent but lacks a bit of flavor. My neighbor across the street knows how to make Birria and let me tell you right now he makes better Birria than them. And that’s a Fact!
Unfortunately, claims of authenticity also represent a way of determining what elements of the food landscape are worth keeping, forcing restaurant owners to adapt in order to remain in place (Gaytán 2008). While newly discovered “hidden gems” that appeal to new residents may stay and even flourish, “dumps” will likely disappear because they symbolize a past that no longer fits with the new identity of the neighborhood.
Second, the appeal of casual and simple food is also striking, indicating a democratization of food. Reviewers in both neighborhoods invoke simplicity as an important criterion for assessing the value of food. The word clouds in figure 1.3 include terms such as simple, basic, and home. Tacos, hot dogs, donuts, and BBQ are among the most highly praised foods in both communities. Similarly, beer has replaced wine as the beverage of choice, signaling an appreciation for simple products historically associated with the working class. Indeed, as we write this chapter, a brand-new restaurant named Working Class just opened in North Park, reinforcing the legitimacy of seemingly simple food and drinks as new markers of good taste.
As Johnston and Bauman (2010) argue, the democratization of dining, which appears to be taking place in many cities, may reflect a false egalitarianism that masks a persistent desire for social distinction, particularly “in a cultural context that endorses democratic ideals and rejects overt snobbery” (p. 2). Other food characteristics, such as local, organic, vegan, authentic, homemade, and artisanal, become signifiers of distinction. Although foodies may be willing to eat hot dogs, not every hot dog is equally appealing. In that sense, simplicity overlaps with authenticity and other values in reinforcing social differences between eaters. For instance, in Barrio Logan, a new hot dog stand has received significant attention as a “casual counter-service spot with inventive hot dogs.” One review’s author claims that although “tacos will always be San Diego’s one true love, […] this ultra-casual counter service outfit in the
