are tapered like regular “toolbox” pliers, but are then bent at an angle near the tip. These are the pliers to turn to when you need to get into tight spaces.
Chain-nose pliers
Chain-nose pliers: Chain-nose pliers, also known as needle-nose pliers, have a smooth flat surface on the interior of the jaws. The small tapered point allows you to get into small areas. You will typically use this tool for gripping jewelry findings and working with wire.
Crimping pliers
Crimping pliers: Crimping pliers are one of the cornerstone tools of beading and were designed specifically for jewelry making. Their purpose is to flatten and bend a small tube of metal, called a crimp tube or crimp, to securely finish a necklace or bracelet so your jewelry will stay together for years to come. When purchasing crimping pliers, make sure you buy regular-sized ones, not micro or mighty crimping pliers. Regular crimping pliers are meant for 2 x 2mm crimp tubes, which are what you will use when making most of your jewelry.
Flat-nose pliers
Flat-nose pliers: With large flat rectangular jaws, flat-nose pliers are useful for holding and bending wire. Flat-nose pliers give you the ability to grip objects tightly, because of their large surface area.
Round-nose pliers
Round-nose pliers: The jaws of round-nose pliers are, of course, round, and taper to a point at each tip. The cone-like shape of each jaw enables you to make different-sized loops for earrings, pendants, and wirework. Round-nose pliers can also be utilized to help grip small areas.
Other essentials
Don’t forget these next few tools. They’re also necessary items you will need in your toolbox.
Bead board
Bead board: A bead board is to a jewelry maker what canvas is to a painter. Bead boards give you a place to lay your radiant beads out before stringing, so you can have a preview of your finished piece. There are many types of bead boards available. Most are gray and have one or more shallow channels. The best boards for beginners are flocked (covered in minute fiber particles) so your beads have a non-slip surface. I suggest beginning beaders purchase a necklace bead board with three channels, rather than just one. Not long after you start making jewelry, you will want to try making multi-strand necklaces, and with a three-channel board, you are equipped to do so. A bead board’s outer channel is measured in inches, while the innermost channel is measured in centimeters.
Bead mat. Photo supplied by Euro Tool, Inc.
Bead mat: These practical mats are soft, fuzzy, and will save you lots of frustration. Their wooly material keeps beads from rolling away from your jewelry-making area. Bead mats often come in many different colors. They are very inexpensive, so it is worth having a few on hand.
Suzann’s Sensational Beading Tip
If you find a place on the jaws of your round-nose pliers that makes a perfect-sized loop, take a permanent marker and mark the spot. By consistently using the same place on your pliers, you will always make loops of the same size.
End clamp
End clamps: There is nothing more heartbreaking than picking up your beautiful necklace design after you have strung your all your beads and watching them fall off the other end. Over the years, I have tried many different methods of keeping my designs intact when moving them. The best solution I’ve discovered is the end clamp. End clamps are about 2" (51mm) long and have rubber tips. The rubber keeps the clamp in place without kinking your wire. Most beaders I know keep several in their toolbox to use on pieces in progress.
Wire cutters
Wire cutters: Wire cutters are the workhorse of your toolbox. You will use your wire cutters on everything from beading wire to head pins and eye pins. I recommend using flush cutters to obtain the straightest cuts. If your wire cutters are leaving burrs (jagged edges) or you need to use excessive force to complete a cut, the blades might be worn down and you may want to replace your cutters.
Toolbox Extras
After building the base of your tool kit, you might want to add on a few extras. These tools, although not essential for making strung jewelry, can make life much easier for jewelry makers. If your jewelry making turns into a passionate hobby or a career, I highly recommend investing in these extras.
Toolbox extras like a polishing cloth, bead reamer, memory wire cutters, extra end clamps, and bead tweezers make beading faster and easier.
Bead reamer
Bead reamer: If you have a bead that isn’t drilled all the way through, a bead with something stuck inside it, or a bead with a hole that needs to be just a bit bigger, a bead reamer will save the day. A bead reamer comes with three interchangeable diamond-tip points that are stored in the handle when not in use. Using one of the tips, you can drill and smooth out almost any rough spots you may encounter in troublesome beads.
Bead tweezers
Bead tweezers: Bead tweezers are much longer than regular tweezers and come with a bead shovel at the end. The tips are useful for separating out individual beads from a collection for your design, while the opposing shovel end helps when you need to get lots of beads out of a bead storage box all at once. And, when the unavoidable bead spill happens, the shovel end will make cleanup a snap!
Jewelry glue. Photo supplied by Euro Tool, Inc.
Jewelry glue: Jewelry glue is formulated specifically for the beads and metals that are used in jewelry making. The glue applicator is long and needle-like, allowing you to apply the glue in tiny areas. A little bit goes a long way with this extra-powerful adhesive.
Suzann’s Sensational Beading Tip
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