Mind Magic. Georgina Fowler
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Tongs
These are a similar tool to the straightening irons but create curl instead of straightness. They are used for many things, from finishing short blow-dries to curling lengths of long hair into spirals, or even to finish a put-up. They can can get extremely hot and need to be used with care.
To use, take a small section of hair and put the end of the hair in between the snapping piece of metal and the tong itself. Wind the hair around the tong until just close enough to the scalp without burning and leave for a few seconds before unwinding. A good tip is to slide a comb under the tong, in between the tong and the scalp, in order to prevent you from burning the head.
Rollers
VELCRO ROLLERS
These rollers stick very easily to the hair on their own, with no clips required. They come in different sizes and are coloured according to size. The main drawback with Velcro rollers is that they don’t make a clean, crisp curl, as when removed they tend to pull odd strands of hair with the roller. However, they are very quick and easy to use, and they are versatile – they can be used on wet or dry hair and can be put in day-old hair to help revamp it.
BENDY ROLLERS
Bendy rollers were originally used for perming, but they have gradually made their way into the setting world for both professionals and non-professionals. They can be rolled into dry or wet hair to create softer waves that have an ‘s’-bend look to them. They have a metal inner that allows them to bend into shape, and a sponge outer shield to protect the hair. They come in several different sizes which are normally represented by different colours. To get better results, use an end paper to make sure the ends are tucked in properly.
SETTING ROLLERS
These old-fashioned rollers are plastic and come in different sizes and colours to match. They have small gaps in between the grids of the roller through which you slide a plastic pin, to hold the roller close to the head. Generally these are used for wet sets and have been around for many years.
When setting with these rollers, you would generally section the hair into small sections and pin each individual roller into place. They are then secured with a hair net to stop them falling out and ear foams are provided – hood dryers have a tendency to get too hot and burn the ears.
styling products
There is a vast array of styling products now on the market made by many different manufacturers, but generally speaking many of them are similar products bar the branding. What follows is a rough guide to what each product is and what they are used for.
Mousse
Used as a styling aid prior to blow-drying or setting on wet hair. Usually creates volume and body and can come in colours, too, to enhance. Ranges in strength of hold from soft to extra firm.
Volume spray
Used as a styling aid prior to blow-drying or setting on wet hair. Used mainly for volume and for giving lift to the roots area of hair. Normally comes in one strength. Avoid using too much, or the hair will be weighed down.
Thermal spray
Used with heated equipment such as tongs, straightening irons or heated rollers to help protect the hair from heat damage. Can sometimes come in different hold strengths.
Thermal cream
Often used with heated styling equipment – normally straighteners – as the cream helps to put lots of moisture in the hair and also keeps the hair smooth. This protects the hair from heat damage.
Straightening cream
Can come in gel, cream or serum form, and is used as a styling aid prior to blow-drying to help smooth and straighten the hair. It doesn’t usually have a hold strength as it is more for softening and smoothing.
Curl enhancers
These come in sprays, gels or creams and are used as a styling aid prior to blow-drying or natural drying to help isolate and enhance curl in the hair. The product sometimes has a light hold.
Thickeners
Used before drying on wet hair and help to give thickness and body to it. Can come in different hold strengths, though some may have no hold at all.
Serums
Often used prior to or after a blow-dry or set to help smooth frizzy or dry ends. They can seal split ends, and can sometimes help to make hair straight. Often an oil-based product, so you need to be light on use if hair is fine as it can get a little oily.
Wax
Used as a finishing product to style and mould hair into shape. Can also be used on the ends of long hair to define a look, and available in various different strengths.
Gel
Used as a finishing product. Can give a ’wet look’, but can be used on both wet and dry hair. Comes in a range of strengths, but firm hold is common. Works very well on short styles.
Pastes/pomades/clays/muds
So many new and exciting styling and finishing products are now available that it’s hard to keep up, but generally these sort of products have different holds and textures for different looks and lengths of hair. Experiment with as many as possible to get a better idea of what each one does.
Shine sprays
Used purely for generating shine on a finished style.
Hairspray
Used to hold a finished style in shape. Sometimes hairsprays can be a wet spray and in pump-action bottles these take a minute or so to set. Most are