the screwed end of a rod of 5⁄16-in. iron, the copper being afterwards heated and drawn to a point or to a blunt edge as preferred. This forms a good bit for most ordinary purposes. An axe-head or hatchet bit is shown in Fig. 6; the copper bolt is riveted in the eye of the iron rod, the bit, however, being free to revolve, as this is essential when making joints in heavy lead pipe, for which purpose it is principally used. Fig. 5 represents a bit which is a combination and modification of the two others, and it is largely used for the internal soldering of bottoms of large drums, milk churns, etc., where great local heat is required.
Fig. 4.—Home-made Soldering Bit
Fig. 5.—Bit for Internal Soldering, etc.
Fig. 6.—Hatchet Soldering Bit
As to the size of bit required, for ordinary small work the straight type should not be less than 8 oz. or 10 oz. (weight of the actual copper).
Two bits are very useful in doing a large job, as the work can then be arranged to progress continuously, one bit heating while the other is in use.
A bit suitable for quite light work can be easily made by drilling and tapping a piece of copper, say 1⁄2 in. by 1⁄2 in. by 11⁄2 in. long, either in the end or in the side, for a 3⁄16-in. steel rod 12 in. long, a handle being then fitted at the other end.
In the “Tinol” telescopic soldering bit for amateurs’ use, the handle is in three parts: (a) the actual wooden handle bushed with metal, and provided with a set-screw shaped like a screw eye, and therefore easily turned; (b) a steel tube which telescopes into the first part, and which is also provided with a set-screw; and (c) a short rod, having at one end a hatchet-shaped copper bit. The extreme length of the tool is 12 in., and the length, when the parts are telescoped together, is about 5 in.
The “Fluxite” bit is larger and heavier. It has a hollow cast-iron handle, perforated to dissipate the heat, threaded internally at one end to receive the screwed end of the iron stem, only 5 in. or so in length, which at the other end screws into an adapter or holder which, in turn, receives the screwed end of the copper bolt, itself about 4 in. long. The bit is taken to pieces in a few moments, and is quite a workmanlike tool.
Fig. 7.—Spirit-heated Bit
Spirit-Heated Soldering Bits.
—Bits heated by benzoline or spirit may be made with a small barrel-shaped reservoir which also forms the handle. One end of the reservoir is fitted with a filling cap, and from the opposite end protrudes the tube carrying the burner. To the tube end of the reservoir an iron clip is attached, and this secures an iron bar which stands out over the burner head. At the end of this bar the copper bit is attached and held either vertically or horizontally in the flame. Tool merchants’ catalogues show a variety of such implements. Fig. 7 illustrates one of the most elaborate of them all, the weight complete being 21⁄4 lb. It has a polished brass container A, of 1⁄5 pint capacity—sufficient for 45 to 60 minutes, whence the benzoline flows to the burner B, the flame from which heats the copper bit C. This bit may be of any of the regular shapes, and weighs about 1⁄2 lb. The position shown is that for heating the bit preparatory to soldering. The tray D catches any drips that might occur at starting, E is the stand, F the filler cap, G is the regulating handle, and H is the clamp that holds the bit in place.
Fig. 8.—Bit attached to Blow-lamp
A writer in Popular Mechanics has stated that the ordinary blow-lamp, with the burner end equipped with a copper bolt (see Fig. 8), makes an excellent soldering device. The point can be easily kept at the proper heat, and there will be no want for hot coppers. The end of the burner is threaded on the outside, and a hole is drilled in the copper point and threaded to match. Small holes are drilled in the copper in the same manner as in the burner, to make vents for the flame.
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