people live there, you will find a whisky distillery in the village of Craighouse, beautifully framed by palm trees. The Inner Hebrides are particularly spoilt by nature, as the Gulf Stream flows along here and provides a special climate in which nature and plants can thrive. Admittedly, not every plant on earth, but a few more than you might think. The island of Jura can be recognised from afar by the three mighty and, at the same time, benign-looking peaks called the ‘Paps of Jura’: unwooded hills that also feature snow-covered white peaks in winter. Every spring, when the melt-water cascades down from the peaks, I yearn to climb all three to see Islay from this high vantage point.
About 20 miles further south, as the crow flies, lies Ireland. On sunny days, you can see it clearly from Islay’s south coast. Sometimes it even seems close enough to touch. The oldest officially mentioned and legalised distillery in the world, built in 1608, is situated in the north of the Ireland. Its only drawback? It’s not Scottish.
And just as far to the north as Ireland is to the south, is the neighbouring island of Isle of Mull, the hills of which can be seen from Islay on a clear day. You get exclusive views of this island world, if you are an intrepid walker of the lonely paths in the north of Islay. However, to the westernmost point of Islay, you’ll search in vain for any near neighbours, for the next landfall is the eastern seaboard of Canada. All along Islay’s west coast, you can experience the infinity of the Atlantic seascape and the freedom of that horizon. Those who claim that there is parochiality to island life have never stood on the rocks at Portnahaven and watched the sun go down, glowing red and silhouetting the seals. Those are unforgettable moments.
There are only two ways to get to Islay. You can either board a small, 32-seater aeroplane at Glasgow Airport, arriving at Islay Airport (‘Portadhair Ile’), some 35 minutes later, often more shaken than stirred. When booking the outward flight, I’d always recommend making sure you get a window seat on the starboard side. Whenever weather conditions permit, the pilots will approach the south coast, and if you direct your gaze downwards towards the Islay coast (and believe me, you will), three white warehouses with large black letters on their walls come into view. You can read three names that make the hearts of whisky connoisseurs beat faster: Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. A minute or so later, you have solid (or should I say peaty) Islay soil under your feet.
The second means of travelling to the ‘Queen of Hebrides’ is by car. This involves driving one of the most beautiful routes in this part of Scotland. Leaving from Glasgow, passing the western shore of Loch Lomond, you’ll arrive at a wonderful castle hotel in Tarbet. At this point, the road to paradise begins. On increasingly narrow roads, you travel deeper into the Argyll landscape, passing dreamlike, seemingly untouched fjord landscapes, seeing beautiful, enchanted, abandoned bridges to the right and left of the road. In places, it’s an almost fairy-tale landscape.
And then there are the hills. You will eventually drive up and over a high road with the wonderful and highly appropriate name of the ‘Rest and Be Thankful’. If you’ve time to look around, you can understand why this place is so named. The views from the top are incredible. Inevitably, because there is only this one road, you’ll also drive past one of Scotland’s most beautiful castles at Inveraray. However, you will likely only be able to see it from the corner of your eye as you drive over the single-track road bridge. On arrival at Inveraray, take a short break and enjoy the flair of the harbour pier with Highland mountains in the background. Finally, your drive along this scenic route ends at a remote ferry port, south of the village of Tarbert, called Kennacraig. From there, boarding the CalMac ferry will take you farther west and during the two-hour crossing, your anticipation of what is ahead will grow by the minute. Finally, you have arrived and Islay, my island, welcomes you.
As you can see, Islay is not perhaps the easiest of places to get to, but I assure you, it’s worth it. Those who undertake this sometimes arduous journey will not regret it, because Islay has so much to offer. I hope you will allow me to show you around.
Jim in Bowmore harbour, not far from the distillery.
As you’re probably already aware, Islay is world famous for its single malt whiskies. This is principally due to the fact that nine of the world’s most famous and popular distilleries are located here. In alphabetical order, these are: Ardbeg, Ardnahoe, Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, Kilchoman, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. But, in addition to these icons of the whisky world, the island is home to a number of other spectacular sites. For example, in the south-east, away from the main roads, you will find an early example of the spread of Christianity across Europe: this consists of the well-preserved and beautiful ‘Kildalton Cross’, one of the finest examples still in existence, surrounded by the ruins of Kildalton church.
To the southwest, an impressive new world opens up on the Oa peninsula. Passing through Port Ellen village, you’ll come to a road that appears to wind its way to the end of the world. Along this route, it wouldn’t be at all unusual to suddenly find yourself in a traffic jam, caused most likely by a flock of sheep, running around freely. I’m sure most of you won’t have experienced traffic like this before. The destination of this road, however, is not the end of the world, but the ‘American Monument’ overlooking the rugged sea cliffs of the Oa. This round brick tower was erected as an impressive memorial to American soldiers who died off Islay’s coast during the First World War. The troopship ‘Tuscania’ sank in 1918 after being torpedoed by a submarine. Though most of the 2,000 American soldiers survived, about 230 of them died. You can’t help but be emotionally moved.
From Port Ellen, the A846 leads north towards Bowmore, a road affectionately known as the Low Road. Most of you will know what Islay whisky is famous for: peat, peat and more peat. The Low Road offers a good ten kilometres of dead straight road with only peatland surrounding you. (You will get to know the village of Bowmore in more detail later in the book.)
Islay is almost divided in half by two sea lochs: Loch Indaal and Loch Gruinart. Their shallow waters provide unique retreats for a wide range of birdlife, which attracts many ornithologists to the island every year. In complete contrast to Loch Indaal is the north-west of the island, still largely undiscovered by tourists. From these coasts you can witness the dramatic power of the North Atlantic. Whether from the cliffs of Sanaigmore, or the bays at Saligo or Machair, you can feel it everywhere. Islay is surrounded by occasionally shallow, eternally moving, stormy waters, all of which are quite magical places for me. However, I’ve not told you everything about Islay – I’d like to keep a few secrets for myself. Probably the best thing to do would be to familiarise yourself by way of a map. The vastness, the peat, the mountains, the sea, the cliffs, the waves, the wind – all this has had a great impact on my life and has provided me with a very strong sense of home. It makes me deeply happy and satisfied to be an Ileach.
This island gave me my start in life, for which I am more than grateful. It is such a good mother to the children who grow up here, for as an Ileach, you are bestowed with rich gifts for life. The first thing you learn is humility in the face of Mother Nature. Depending on where you are on the island, at any given time, you can actually experience all four seasons in one day – a fact once featured in a Laphroaig advertising campaign: Islands in the sun are not for everyone.
In autumn, heavy storms often arise, with dark, threatening clouds creating an apocalyptically dark backdrop. Then the peace and quiet is quickly over. In times like these, I’m grateful for a warm house and a glass of whisky by the fireplace – a moment of perfection! On Islay, everything has its value and you inevitably learn to appreciate the little things in life. Life here is
