with hot spices in a banana leaf. Coconut is used in some form (oil, milk, or flesh; grated, roasted, or powdered) in almost every recipe.
Foreign influences are apparent in its cuisine here, too. Judaism and Christianity both came to Kerala many centuries ago, and modern Syrian Christians (the majority Christian population in this state) believe that the Apostle Thomas came here and baptized their ancestors. Later, the Portuguese arrived and continued the conversions, this time to Catholicism.
Early spice routes were controlled by the Arabs. Kerala being the region of India where so many were grown, it’s easy to understand how Islam was introduced to this region around the seventh century.
Today, the Kerala Christian table is laden with beef and pork stews, the Muslim one with biryanis and breads such as parottas, and the Hindu kitchen is fragrant with coconut and vegetable or fish curries.
Tamil Nadu temples and their fragrant cuisines
Hindus follow practices that appeal to them from Hinduism’s various philosophies and beliefs and build a relationship with a favorite deity chosen from the vast pantheon of gods. One such practice is the offering of special foods to the gods. These foods are cooked in a special way that is considered pure; so, the cook will enter the kitchen only after a cleansing bath, use “allowed” ingredients (disallowed ingredients include foods such as meat, fish, onions, and garlic), and cook with love and devotion. Most Hindu temples of worship have a kitchen attached, and the blessed foods cooked here are distributed to devotees who come from far and wide, free of cost.
Temple foods always seem to taste good and, because they serve the community, their availability means that needy people who live in the vicinity never go hungry. They’re available to everyone, so if you do get an opportunity to visit, it’s a good idea to sample this truly divine food.
The West: A Melting Pot
I was born and raised in Mumbai, which was then called Bombay. As the commercial capital of India, Mumbai attracts people from all over the country who come to work in finance, business, or films. (India’s film industry, which produces the largest number of films every year, is based here.) The cuisine of Western India is a wonderful mix, and I grew up thinking that what I ate was what all of India was eating. Only when I trained as a chef did I realize how privileged I was to have had all of India on my plate in my very own home!
Mumbai and the Parsi influence
India saw two important migrations from Iran. The first were the Zoroastrians, called the Parsis, who arrived around the eighth century as they fled from religious persecution. They arrived on the west coast of India. From here, they moved to other parts of the country, many settling in Mumbai. Their cuisine is a fabulous mix of Indian, Persian, and European styles and is very much a part of the cuisine of modern Mumbai. Signature dishes include dhansak and patia.
The second group of people were migrants from Iran who came to Bombay in the 19th century for economic reasons. They set up Irani cafes, known for their distinctive decor, uncomfortable bentwood chairs (no one is encouraged to linger because trade is brisk), and a unique menu that features dishes like puff-pastry patties, bread pudding, and ground meat curries served with bread. These cafes (very reasonably priced) are popular among students and office workers.
This cuisine is one of my favorites, so I always look forward to being invited to a Parsi wedding. I know the feast will be an extravaganza of fried chicken, meat curries, and delicious desserts served with jewel-colored sodas.
Pune and the Sindhi influence
The Partition of India and Pakistan was a major event that has shaped the history of modern India. Around a million Hindu Sindhis, who lived in the Sindh province, now in Pakistan, are said to have moved to India. Many settled around Bombay and the nearest large town, Pune. They brought a cuisine that was infused with Persian and Arabic flavors but was essentially cooked with a few Indian spices. I’ve seen a good number of fried foods, such as breads and potatoes, in this meal that are hazardous to my waistline, but there are also recipes for green vegetables, lentils, and chicken that I love for their freshness. My Sindhi friends often serve papads (popadams; the Sindhis are well known for their love of these) with the meal, but never with dips as found in Indian restaurants in the West.
Konkan’s golden coastlines
I’ve never forgotten the short plane trip I made a few years ago from Mumbai to Mangalore on the west coast of India. The plane flew low, and the view was unbroken blue sea bordered by a narrow strip of golden sand merging with lush palm trees. The Arabian Sea along the coast of Konkan provides the perfect ingredients for a cuisine rich in fish and seafood. The trees give coconuts that are grated into curries to make creamy sauces. Tangy fish curries flavored with tamarind or kokum (a sour local fruit) are eaten with rice and fried fish or shrimp, dusted with chile powder, salt, and garlic; they make a regular appearance on the Konkani table.
The fish markets on the coast are great for tourists, too, because you can just soak up the atmosphere. At around 7 a.m., the boats come into the dock and, amidst much excitement and shouting, the catch is offloaded into baskets on shore. Fishmongers and restaurants quickly buy what they want, and the rest is sold to home cooks. Never will you find fresher catch available — and often at a very good price!
Gujarat and its extravagant thalis
Gujarat is the mango-shaped state to the west of India. It’s famous for its delicate, vegetarian cuisine and especially for the thali, a metal plate with several small bowls filled with an array of tempting dishes. The word thali means “metal plate,” but the term has also come to denote the meal that is served on one. A thali has rice, breads, fried accompaniments called farsans, vegetables, lentils, and sweets, all served at once. There are no courses, and you can mix and match dishes as you like.
Because there are so many dishes in this feast, preparing it at home is time-consuming and expensive. Most people go to a specialty restaurant (or a wedding) to enjoy it. It’s quite an experience, and best of all, you can eat as much as you want for a fixed price. I think most people grudgingly stop eating because of guilt (what will the waiter say?) or food fatigue (I don’t think I’ll make it to the door!). You can find more about how to create your own thali meal in Chapter 9.
Chapter 2
Embracing India’s Love of Vegetables
IN THIS CHAPTER
You may have heard that India is the vegetarian capital of the world. It has the largest number of vegetarians, and meat consumption is low. However, Indian cuisine also has a delicious and varied meat, poultry, and fish repertoire.
In India, vegetarian food is the default. If you eat meat, you’re referred to as a “nonvegetarian.” Most restaurants have both vegetarian and nonvegetarian
