from a shop that does a brisk business. When lots of other shoppers go there to buy spices, shelves will be restocked more frequently and spices will be fresher. Typically, this means shopping at an Indian grocery store.
Buy small quantities. Often, buying in bulk is cost-effective, but in the case of spices, it isn’t. Ground spices last for around six months; the seeds last for a year. Even if a big bag is cheaper than several smaller ones, you may end up needing to throw it out. Better to buy two or three smaller bags and open one only after you’ve used up the previous one.
Store them in airtight containers in a dry, dark cupboard. Spices and herbs can deteriorate with light and air.
Use spices in other cuisines, too. That way, you’ll use them up faster and keep your stock fresh. Try adding a pinch of turmeric to rice and pasta, or add a bit of garam masala to your roast meat.
Depending on what your go-to recipes will be, buy a few key spices first and then build up your collection. The spices I can’t live without are:Black mustard seedsChile powderCumin seedsGaram masalaGround corianderGround cuminTurmeric
Table 4-1 can help you decide which spices to buy and suggests which dishes they compliment. When you become familiar with their flavors, you’ll feel confident to use them in other recipes too.
TABLE 4-1 Buying Spices
| Spice | Description |
|---|---|
| Ajowan | Also called ajwain, these small, sharp-tasting seeds give Indian fritters like onion bhajia and snacks their distinctive taste. |
| Amchur | Sometimes spelled amchoor, this is a dried green mango powder used to add a fruity sour note to samosa and stuffed bread fillings where moisture needs to be restricted. It’s also used in North Indian chutneys and salads. |
| Asafetida | This very strong-smelling powder comes from the root of a plant species of ferula. It’s used in small quantities for its digestive properties in recipes with lentils, beans, and certain vegetables. If you just can’t find it and a recipe calls for it, you can just leave it out. |
| Cardamom | Green cardamom is used in both savory and sweet recipes. It has a strong citrusy aroma. Black cardamom is bigger and has a smoky aroma. Look for plump pods when buying both. |
| Chaat masala | Chaat masala is a spicy, sour, salty blend of spices such as mango powder and chile. It’s sprinkled over snacks as a finishing spice. It’s sometimes sold as “chunky chaat masala.” |
| Chile powder | Varying heat levels are available, from mild to extra hot. I suggest a medium-hot variety, such as Kashmiri chile powder, which also gives dishes a lovely deep red color. |
| Cinnamon | The quills are crumbly, sweet, and aromatic. You can substitute cinnamon with cassia, which is cheaper, coarser, and slightly bitter but still aromatic. Both cinnamon and cassia are used in rice dishes and some curries. |
| Coriander | Coriander is available as seeds and ground — you’ll need both. Buy smaller packs of ground coriander because it loses its aroma quite quickly when opened. (Note: The leaves and stem of this plant are referred to as cilantro, but coriander is the term used for the dried seeds.) |
| Cumin | These small, long seeds are highly aromatic. You’ll need both the seeds and ground cumin. |
| Garam masala | Garam masala is an aromatic blend of spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, nutmeg, and pepper. Recipes vary so find a blend you like. |
| Fenugreek | Fenugreek is available as seeds and dried leaves, which are essential in dishes like butter chicken. The seeds are used in lentil and vegetable dishes. You can’t swap leaves with seeds, or vice versa, so pay attention to what the recipe calls for. |
| Mustard seeds | Mustard seeds are used a lot in South Indian cooking. Look for black or brown ones. Yellow mustard seeds are not commonly used. |
| Pepper | Pepper is used in spice blends and for seasoning. Buy black peppercorns and crush them at home in a peppermill for the freshest flavor. |
| Saffron | Saffron is the world’s most expensive spice. Look for Spanish or Kashmiri saffron. It’s used in small quantities in sweets and rice dishes. |
| Turmeric | This bright yellow-orange powder has an earthy aroma. Look for a vibrant hue. Fresh turmeric root is also available, but you can’t use it instead of the powder in Indian recipes. (I tried, so you don’t have to.) |
| Whole dried chilies | You’ll need chilies to add color and flavor to some curries such as rich lamb curries or South Indian dishes. Choose a dark red, mild variety such as Kashmiri chilies. |
Grains
Your Indian meal will always have grains as a part of it. The grains could be in the form of rice or breads made with wheat or lentil flours. Although the variety of Indian ingredients in supermarkets keeps growing, you’ll probably find a larger variety at an Indian grocery store. It’s worth a trip just for the wonderful aromas and unusual ingredients you’ll see — you won’t need to buy them all! Table 4-2 lists the ones you’ll want to stock up on.
TABLE 4-2 Buying Grains
| Grain | Description |
|---|---|
| Atta | A stoneground (called chakki on Indian packaging) whole-wheat flour used for making rotis, parathas, and other breads. You can’t use whole-meal flour instead, so if the recipe calls for atta, use atta. |
| Besan | A kind of chickpea flour used for batters for fritters like pakora, to make gluten-free breads, or for thickening curries |
| Poha | A dried flaked rice that rehydrates easily to make a quick, hearty snack when cooked with spices. It’s available as “fine” or “medium”; I always buy the medium because it holds its shape better. |
| Rice | Indian basmati rice is available in most stores. Look for aged, mature, or old basmati (you’ll often see these terms on the packaging) because it’ll fluff up better. Or if you can’t bother to read labels, just buy the most expensive one because it’s likely to be the best aged. Cheaper basmati is good for rice pudding and for blending into a batter for rice and lentil pancakes called dosa. |
| Semolina |
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