The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns. J B Wood

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The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part V - Shotguns - J B Wood

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When reassembling the hammer pivot pin, insert a small tool on the left side to depress the shell stop spring as the tip of the pin passes.

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      4. When reassembling the gas piston system, refer to steps 2 through 6 for the proper arrangement of these parts. When replacing the gas cylinder plug on the stem of the piston valve at the front, note that its concave surface goes toward the rear.

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       Similar/Identical Pattern Guns:

      10 Gauge Turkey & Camo Models

       Waterfowl Camo

       Game Gun Deer Special

       Game Gun Turkey Special

       Stalker

       Micro

Data: Browning BPS
Origin: United States
Manufacturer: Made in Japan for Browning, Morgan,Utah
Gauges: 10, 12,20,28, and .410
Magazine capacity: 4 rounds (12 gauge)
Overall length: 46-1/2 inches
Barrel length: 26 inches (others offered)
Weight: 7-1/2 pounds

      Miroku of Japan has made the BPS for Browning since 1977. Some elements of its design are similar to the Ithaca Model 37, but the mechanical details and takedown are not the same. The BPS has been offered in numerous models, gauges, and barrel lengths. All are mechanically the same, and the instructions will apply.

      Disassembly:

      1. Cycle and close the action, and put the manual safety in on-safe position. Unscrew the magazine cap, and remove the barrel toward the front. NOTE: If you have one of the Game Gun versions, you must also remove the barrel-stabilizing lock washer and split ring before the barrel is taken off.

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      2. Use a suitable tool, such as a roll-pin drift or the Brownells tool shown, to push out the trigger-group cross pin.

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      3. Tip the trigger group downward at the rear, and remove it downward and rearward.

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      4. As the trigger group is taken out, the shell stops on each side will be released for removal.

      5. Turn the trigger group as shown, and depress the slide lock at the front. The slide-lock lever will fall off its post on the left side.

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      6. Restrain the hammer, pull the trigger, and ease the hammer forward to fired position. Keep the hammer under control. If it impacts the crosspiece, the slide lock can be damaged. If necessary for repair, the trigger-groupcross-pin sleeve and it sattached spring can be drifted out toward the right. However, it retains no parts, and can be left in place.

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      7. Using a suitable tool, detach, the sear spring from its stud on the sear, and remove it. The spring is slightly compressed, so control it.

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      8. Use a proper roll-pin punch to drift out the trigger-spring retaining cross pin. Block the hole at the rear as the punch is taken out, as the spring will be released.

      9. Remove the trigger spring and plunger toward the rear. The plunger may not come out with the spring, but it can be easily pushed out after the trigger is removed.

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      10. Keep a finger on top to restrain the slide lock spring, and push the trigger cross pin slightly toward the left until the arm of the spring is released. Ease the spring arm over toward the front, releasing its tension. Caution: Control the spring.

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      11. Push the trigger pin out toward the left, and remove the trigger upward. Because of the attached disconnector, the trigger will have to be turned slightly during removal.

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      12. The disconnector is retained on the trigger by a C-clip on the right side. If removal is not necessary for repair, it is best left in place.

      13. Restrain the hammer, and push out the slide-lock cross pin toward either side.

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      14. Ease the hammer forward, move the slide-lock assembly forward, and take it off upward. The slide lock-spring is easily detached.

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      15. Restrain the hammer, and push out

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