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2. The two rear Phillips screws in the forend retain the forend iron, and it is taken out rearward. Note that the rear screw has a separate escutcheon.
3. Taking out the front screw will allow removal of the forend latch. Note that this screw is threaded into an oblong washer on the inside. The three forend screws are not identical so keep them separate for reassembly.
4. The forend latch is retained by a cross pin. The blade-type spring is staked in place, and should be removed only for repair.
5. The ejector sear is pivoted and retained by a cross pin. Caution: The plunger and coil spring will be re-leased, so control them.
6. The ejector should be removed only if necessary for repair. Drifting out the small retaining pin and the larger cocking pin will allow the ejector to be taken out toward the rear. Caution: Control the spring.
7. Insert a finger or tool to depress the cocking lever detent, and allow the lever to move downward.
8. Move the safely to off-safe position. Depress the cocking lever just far enough that resistance is felt, pull the trigger and slowly release the cocking lever This operation will uncock the hammer, and the indicator will retract into the upper tang, as shown.
9. Take out the two slotted screws at the rear, and remove the recoil pad. The stock mounting bolt is a slotted screw, and it is only about two inches inside, so a regular large screwdriver can be used. Remove the buttstock toward the rear.
10. Remove the small Phillips screw at the rear of the trigger guard.
11. Turn the trigger guard out toward the left, and remove it downward.
12. Depress the cocking lever to re-cock the hammer, and insert a small tool through the cross-hole in the hammer spring guide. Pull the trigger and ease the hammer down to fired position.
13. Be sure the hammer is all the way forward. Lift the front of the hammer spring and guide assembly, then tilt the front outward for removal. If necessary for repair, you can use locking pliers and a slightly-opened vise to remove the tool and release the spring. If this is done - Caution! The spring is fully compressed.
14. Use an offset screwdriver, or one with an angled tip, as shown, to remove the trigger spring screw and take out the spring.
15. Drift out the safety housing cross pin.
16. Remove the safety housing downward.
17. If necessary for repair, insert a small tool on the right side just above the cross piece to depress the safety detent plunger. The cross piece can then be removed. Caution: Control the plunger and spring.
18. Drift out the trigger cross pin.
19. Remove the trigger downward.
20. The sear is also pivoted and retained by the trigger cross pin, and it can now be lifted out of its recess in the top of the trigger. Note its orientation for reassembly.
21. Drift out the hammer cross pin.
22. Invert the receiver to take out the hammer, as the indicator and its spring will be treed as the hammer is removed. Move the hammer rearward, turn it to the position shown, and take it out to the side.
23. Remove the cocking indicator and its spring.
24. Removal of the Phillips screw at the front of the receiver will allow the bottom plate to be taken out. This will give access to the cross pin that retains the barrel latch detent and its coil spring. However, the plate is tightly fitted and finished-over, and some marring will be inevitable. The plate should be removed only for repair.
25. If firing pin replacement is necessary for repair, the firing pin and its coil return spring are retained by this cross pin, and they are taken out rearward. This pin is finished-over, and the finish will be marred.
26. If the combination cocking and barrel latch lever has to be removed for repair, this finished-over cross pin retains
