BMW 3-Series (E36) 1992-1999. Eddie Nakato

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BMW 3-Series (E36) 1992-1999 - Eddie Nakato

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alt=""/> Remove the catalyst section from the exhaust header. Set these aside. If you have not already upgraded the exhaust, now is a good time for that job.

       Profile: Valerie’s E36 M3 with an S54 Engine

      Valerie Bradley went through the process of installing the S54 engine from the E46 series into her E36 M3 sedan. Here’s why she went to the expense and effort, and what she got out of building this street car into her track-day machine.

      “The car is a 1997 M3, and I wanted to put more power into it. The stock engine was fine but wasn’t spectacular on the straights. I knew that there was more in the car than I could find with that engine. The VANOS was going bad, so instead of fixing that, we decided to put in a new engine,” Valerie says.

      Among the options Valerie considered was a turbocharger kit and just buying a newer car with more power. But there was a good reason to stick with the E36. “Part of the reason for getting the older car was that we’re putting it on the track and that can be dangerous. I didn’t want to have that much money at risk on the track. So we decided to upgrade this car until we’re at the limits of what the car can do,” she says.

With the S54 engine...

       With the S54 engine installed, Valerie is ready to drive her 1997 E36 M3 on its first track day.

      The swap to the E46 engine was more complicated than expected, but the results have been spectacular. “With the new engine, the car was dynoed at 297 hp at the wheels. It was a significant enough power increase to be worth the effort and money. I can actually pass people on the straights now. The car is more lively, more fun, and more nimble. There’s so much more it has to give now,” Valerie says.

      In addition to the new engine, Valerie has installed a set of Moton coil-overs for suspension, Alcon front brakes, and an aftermarket radiator that was not required in order to clear the E46 engine, but does a better job of keeping that engine cool on track. Plus, the aftermarket radiator incorporates an oil cooler, which is absolutely necessary for the high-revving S54 engine.

The new S54 engine...

       The new S54 engine works great. You must use the digital motor electronics (DME) computer from the M3 model, and an adaptive wiring harness is needed to install that DME in any other E36, but all the major mechanical points bolt right up.

       Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the chassis wiring harness. The connection is made through a barrel connector on the right-hand side of the engine. Removing the harness is simply a matter of unscrewing the barrel connecters on the driver’s side near the firewall and removing the gang-plugs. Once loosened, the plugs pull right out.

These barrel connectors are...

       These barrel connectors are the points where the chassis wiring harness meets the engine wiring harness. Disconnect these before you lift out the engine.

       Disconnect all hoses and the grounding strap that links the engine to the chassis. Remove all ancillary components, such as the alternator, power steering, and AC pumps. You need to remove the serpentine belt first, and then simply unbolt each component from the engine. The power steering and A/C units have their own attachments to the car’s chassis, so set them aside in the engine bay but leave their pressure lines connected. You just want them off the engine.

One point at which...

       One point at which engine replacement becomes hung up, literally, is the engine ground strap. Be sure it’s disconnected before you try to lift the engine out of the engine bay.

       Remove the nuts that hold the aluminum engine mounts to the body-side mounts. Use a socket wrench on an extension to get down to the nuts, but you should not need air power. They should come loose easily. The body-side mounts are large cushioned doughnuts that can move around when loosened.

      When you install the new engine, bear in mind that you can move these mounts to get a good fit before tightening them again.

BMW engine mounts are...

       BMW engine mounts are remarkably simple and straightforward. Undo the nuts and the engine lifts right off. The body-side mounts are movable so you can adjust the new engine to fit perfectly.

       Locate the lifting tabs and connect the lifting chain to them. There is one on the front and one on the back of the engine. Use a rag to cushion the chain against any part of the engine that it touches while lifting, and then carefully lift out the engine.

The engine lift point...

       The engine lift point at the forward end is located right around the VANOS hardware. A convenient lifting loop is provided for you, and this attaches to strong points on the engine for safe lifting.

With the clutch and...

       With the clutch and flywheel off, the S52 engine lifts out of the engine bay quite easily. Be sure you’ve drained the oil before you begin, as it’s much harder to drain with the engine out.

The flywheel is already...

       The flywheel is already removed from this engine for the lifting process, but you can also see the rear lifting tab, which you find on the driver’s side just behind the cylinder head.

       Installing the new S54 engine is a reversal of the removal process. Using the same lift points, and with the flywheel and clutch removed for extra clearance, gently and slowly guide the engine into place. You need to locate engine mount arms from the 2001–2002 S54-equipped Z3 to fit into the E36 Chassis. Make sure the engine mounts are loose enough to move around a little bit to fit everything together.

Here’s the...

       Here’s the body-side engine mount, with its rubber isolator and vibration dampener. This mount moves around a bit so you can position the engine onto it and then tighten everything into place.

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