a different gear pattern, and the flywheel had 134 teeth on the 6-volt starter version while the 12-volt version of the same flywheel has 168 teeth.
To add to the confusion, the starter gears both have the same number of teeth, but the pitch is different. I am really talking about the flywheels’ ring gear; however, unless you want to remove and replace a ring gear, the difference is insignificant. Be sure to count the teeth on the flywheel so you know which starter to purchase.
The flywheel’s ring gear is the issue here. It is relatively easy with heat to remove a ring gear, but finding a replacement is the problem. Most of us just replace the entire flywheel when necessary. Don’t skip over the fact that you can turn the ring gear around to get fresh gear meat for the starter.
Due to the concern of unwanted combustion, make sure the ignition is off or the distributor cap is removed before attempting anything that requires removal of a spark plug. Safety first always!
Even if someone has upgraded your vehicle to 12 volts, it may still use a 6-volt starter. I prefer the 6-volt starter because to carry double the current of 12 volts, the windings are beefier. You won’t hurt a 6-volt starter if you use it for the normal short periods of time it was designed for.
Is It a Rebuild Candidate?
Here I am talking about the quality of the engine candidate. Is it worth the considerable expense to rebuild? Do you see visible cracks in the water jacket or anywhere else? Do you have any documentation that would lead you to understand the cylinder bore size that was done at the last rebuild?
The best years for Stovebolts are 1958–1962. Think of Chevrolet as a company with technology that is constantly evolving. The Holy Grail of Stovebolts is the 1958–1962 261 engine. It is the same physical size as the 235 with about 40 more horsepower due to its larger displacement. It also has native full-flow oil filtering. Keep in mind that any Stovebolt after 1953 is considered the best 6-cylinder engine for that vintage. Another major factor is engine wear. You do not want to purchase an engine that is bored .060 over because it is reaching the end of its life. You also do not want to purchase an engine with cracks or casting issues. ■
Sometimes the piston has a number stamped on the top face of it. You discover something very important when you remove the head of an unknown engine. You should wire brush away the carbon and dirt from the center of the top of the piston. A number such as .010, .020, .030, etc., stamped on the piston, tells you the last cylinder bore size. If it reads .060, you are getting very close to the last bore size that is available for these cylinders. This may be a prohibitive factor for you because it costs just as much to do the first overbore as it does to do the last.
Organization Is Key
The engine for this specific rebuild has hydraulic lifters. I like that, even knowing that an argument could be made that they cost horsepower because the engine is very quiet and runs very smoothly without much adjustment. In the box of engine parts, I found the 12 lifters for this project. Three of them are missing the retainer springs and the caps, and there is stuff all over the bottom of the box.
A compression tester costs about $25 at your local tool store, and it is well worth it so you know you have good compression. In the United States, the inside scale is used because you are reading PSI.
Because hydraulic lifters are expensive, I’d like to save them. After a little research, I learned that I could take them to a machine shop and have them surfaced so that they run against the cam as good as new. I will not use them if the machine shop expert recommends that I buy new ones.
Since I am doing a complete rebuild and do not care about the current timing of the engine, I removed the head, distributor, plug wires, spark plugs, coil, road tube, starter, generator or alternator, water pump, carburetor, intake and exhaust manifold, valve cover, and lifter side cover. I organized these subsystems carefully, keeping the hardware separate. I separated the hardware, putting things in labeled bags. And the fun soon begins!
CHAPTER 2
TOOLS AND ENGINE CLEANING
You don’t need anything this fancy, but the roll-cart on the right contains a battery, a set of gauges, a fuel delivery system, and a safety switch for rolling up to any project and providing the necessary power. See devestechnet.com/Home/StartKartPlans for the plans to make your own version.
There are many tools required for this job. As I address each system, I will add to it. One important tool for this job is the shop manual for the year of your engine. Remember, the shop manual for your vehicle may be different from the one for the engine if the engine has been replaced. You can purchase a copy of the shop manual from many sources.
A shop manual is the authority on tolerances, procedures, and methods. However, it is outdated and many of the tools represented in it are either hard or impossible to find. I use modern equivalents. ■
There are many tools required for this job. As I address each system, I will add to it. One important tool for this job is the shop manual for the year of your engine. Remember, the shop manual for your vehicle may be different from the one for the engine if the engine has been replaced. You can purchase a copy of the shop manual from many sources.
Tools List
• Three-gallon parts washer (or equivalent)
• Miscellaneous scrapers, brushes, Scotch-Brite pads, etc.
• 3/8- and 1/2-inch socket and open-end wrenches to 3/4 inch
• Harmonic balancer puller
• Miscellaneous screwdrivers and pliers
• Cylinder ridge reamer
• Piston ring pliers
• Shop press (for cam gear removal)
• Valve spring compressor
• Vernier calipers
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