Automotive Upholstery & Interior Restoration. Fred Mattson

Чтение книги онлайн.

Читать онлайн книгу Automotive Upholstery & Interior Restoration - Fred Mattson страница 5

Автор:
Серия:
Издательство:
Automotive Upholstery & Interior Restoration - Fred Mattson

Скачать книгу

are built to withstand the rough service they are bound to see. Interchangeable heads make this model even more useful.

      The use of a steamer to remove wrinkles and small imperfections is essential to the upholstery trade. Several models of steamers are available for upholstery and each has its own strengths. Some have a dedicated purpose while others use different heads for specific applications. Hands down, the most versatile and durable auto upholstery steamer on the market today is the Model J-4000A manufactured by the Jiffy Steamer Company. This steamer unit has interchangeable heads on a 7½-foot hose and they are great for different applications. The 6-inch flat-iron head is used for general steaming and pattern making; the straight-tube head is perfect for steaming the hard-to-get-to spots on convertible tops.

      Removing door panels is an easy task when you use the right tool. Some people use a screwdriver for this job and end up scratching the door and causing damage to the door panel while they are trying to free it from the door.

Image

       A variety of door panel tools are available for purchase and most are relatively inexpensive. The tool works on leverage to lift the fastener from the door. Long and short versions of the panel clip tool are useful to gain access to tight situations.

      Getting under the panel fastener and lifting it without damaging the door panel is what this tool is all about. Many different lengths of panel tools, as well as plastic panel tools, are available to accommodate any task. These manual tools use simple leverage to get under the fastener and lift the panel safely from the door. The forked end of the tool is slid under the fastener and then the clip is pried out, releasing the panel without damaging it or the car.

      It has always been a chore to remove the window and door cranks from a panel, but using the correct device speeds the job and prevents harm to you or the door panel. Early Ford cars used a 1/8-inch-diameter pin to hold the crank to the regulator post. The pin is accessed by depressing the decorative escutcheon and pushing the pin out. Using the correct pin removal tool makes this operation simple.

Image

       Using the correct tool makes removal of a window and door crank much simpler. The upper tool is for early GM cars that have a small spring clip. Later-model cars used a larger clip that is pushed out of the handle using the middle tool. Ford used a small pin that is difficult to access without the special fork tool shown at the bottom.

      GM cars used a small “C” spring clip in its early models and it is removed with clip pliers. Later models used a larger spring clip and that was removed by sliding the handle clip tool between the escutcheon and the crank to push out the clip.

      Getting a headliner to settle into place is a breeze when you use the correct tuck tool. The tuck tool is made of spring steel with a wooden handle. The blade of the tool is blunt and rounded on the corners to prevent damage to the headliner material or molding you are working with and is available with a thin or heavy version to suit the task at hand.

      The thin-blade tool can push the headliner material under and into the tightest places, leaving the outside of the headliner wrinkle free and snug; the heavy-duty blade works well for lifting the rubber moldings around the windows so that glue can be applied underneath.

Image

       This tuck tool is essential for the installation of a suspended headliner. The wide blade is great for lifting rubber window molding without causing damage. The top tool has a thicker blade for lifting and prying and the lower tool has a thinner blade for tucking headliner material into tight places.

      Other versions of this tool are also available and are used in the same manner. Always choose the tool that is right for your specific needs.

      This is my personal favorite tool of all. The unlimited uses of this long, needle-like tool are remarkable. The pointed end can locate and align trim screw holes in garnish moldings and it can make perfect holes in panels for accent trim to be applied. The flat end is useful for applying glue or tucking material into unreachable places.

      The tool is called a regulator because it was originally designed for furniture upholstery. After the fabric was applied over the cotton stuffing on the arm, cushion, or backrest of a chair, the regulator was inserted into the chair from the backside so that the cotton stuffing could be moved and repositioned into the corners, evening out the stuffing. This brought on the term of “regulating” the cushion.

Image

       This 10-inch steel regulator is my personal favorite tool. It can be used on every job to help with assembly by locating hidden screw holes, aligning components, and tucking material into tight places.

      Regulators are available in different sizes (ranging from 8 to 10 inches in length) and types. They can be found with a plastic or wooden handle.

      It is easy to lose these when you are working on an interior because they seem to hide in the most unobvious places. They are not expensive, so I buy them four or five at a time. Once you start using a regulator, you will never be without this tool.

      Heavy-duty scissors are an essential tool for the upholstery shop. It is important to get the right size scissors for the task you are performing. Many types and uses for scissors exist and making the proper choices will save you money. The lightweight, plastic-handled scissors are not well suited for upholstery use. They fatigue your hand and the blades are too thin for heavy cutting. Maintenance is almost impossible due to the fact that they are riveted together and difficult to resharpen. Although they may be inexpensive, replacing them when they are worn out ends up costing more than buying good scissors in the first place.

Image

       Professional-quality scissors are a must for any trim shop. The variety of scissors makes specific jobs easier. From the top is an 8½-inch straight-handle industrial that is used for precision cutting, an 8⅛-inch bent-handle inlaid blade for the sewing machine, a 10-inch bent-handle inlaid for general-purpose cutting, a 10-inch bent-handle wide blade for cutting panel board and heavy materials, and a 12-inch bent-handle knife edge for cutting carpet and heavy materials.

      The brand of scissors that I prefer to use in my shop is made by Wiss. The general size of scissors used every day is a 10-inch bent-handle. They work great for cutting leather, vinyl, and panel board. For carpet I use a bent-handle 12-inch knife-edge scissors. They cut through carpet like it was paper. At the sewing machine, I have used 8⅛-inch bent-handle scissors for trimming tread.

      Overall I have a dozen or more scissors that I keep in rotation so that I’m always using sharp scissors. The professional-grade scissors last and can be repaired and sharpened to new condition many times. I have three scissors in service now that are more than 35 years old and they still work great.

      Removing

Скачать книгу