from the surface of the wall, you don’t have enough room behind the pegboard to insert the peg hooks.
8 Use broad-head cabinet screws to mount the pegboard to the wall. Insert the screw in the hole that is backed by the nut standoff and screw it into the wall without overtightening.
9 When the pegboard is securely mounted to the wall, give it a good coat of primer and then two coats of paint to protect it for many years of service.
10 When the paint is dry, you can start hanging your tools up for easy access. Add peg hooks and rearrange them as necessary.
Workbench
Essential to every shop is the workbench, or as some may call it, a cutting table. If you are serious about the trade, you just cannot work without one. Every project touches the workbench and having one that is large enough for your projects is not always attainable. You can purchase a workbench and assemble it, but the store-bought benches lack in size and features due to manufacturing and shipping limitations. They just do not have all the features it takes to satisfy an active upholstery shop’s needs.
Folding tables are useful for some things, but they are generally not rigid enough for most projects. Working on a wobbly surface is unsafe for you and the project you are working on. Some trimmers like a bench that is movable, but unless you have a huge warehouse space, a movable workbench is just not practical. Adding castors on a bench is something of a preference, but the thought of chasing a bench around does not appeal to me.
Some trim shops have a bench that is built around and incorporates the sewing machine. This gives the trimmer support for materials that are being sewn together as well as space to lay out and cut patterns.
The workbench is an essential part of any shop. My design is very sturdy with a lot of room for material layout and patterning as well as assembly of projects. Underneath is plenty of storage room for materials and upholstery supplies.
It is essential that a bench is sturdy enough to stand on its own and hold up to the weight and stress of pushing and pulling. My solution is to build my own benches from scratch to the size I desire and with the features I need.
Some of the features that make my workbench superior to premanufactured workbenches are that it can be customized to fit the individual needs of any workshop. Because the workbench is built from common lumber and hardware, there are no special parts that can break or need to be ordered.
The height can be adjusted to a comfortable level that reduces fatigue and allows you to work longer and be more creative. The legs of the workbench also interlock to keep the workbench stable and rock solid. This allows the bench to be placed anywhere in the shop without anchoring it to a wall or the floor.
Building a Workbench
I have compiled the plans for you to construct your own table. Feel inspired to make any changes that work best for you.
Bench Frame
Begin by making the frame of the workbench.
From two 2 × 4 × 96, cut the rails to a length of 96 inches.
From two 2 × 4 × 96, cut four stiles to a length of 45 inches.
From two 2 × 4 × 96, cut four legs to a length of 36 inches. (The height of the table can be adjusted to suit your personal needs.)
The stiles are let in 1½ inches from the ends of the rails and the middle stiles are placed at 32 inches on center from the end of the rails. They are secured with two 2½-inch deck screws through the rail into the ends of the stile.
The legs are placed into the outside corners of the frame and are attached by drilling two 3/8-inch holes diagonally from each other through the leg and end stile. The 3/8-inch carriage bolts are inserted through the holes and secured by a flat washer, a split-lock washer, and nut. Tighten with a ratchet wrench.
Measure the distance between the legs. From one 2 × 4 × 96 cut two lock stiles to a length of 38 inches long so that it fits snugly between the legs. Secure the locking stile to the end stile with 2½-inch deck screws.
This 3-D drawing shows some measurements and the overall design of the workbench. Standard construction materials are used in this simple-to-assemble workbench. Any of the features can be customized to fit the needs of any shop.
Turn the table over so that it is standing on its legs and repeat the process to create the base of the table.
Panel Board Shelf (optional)
From two 2 × 4 × 96, cut the rails to a length of 96 inches.
From two 2 × 4 × 96, cut four stiles to a length of 45 inches.
Measure 8 inches down from the bottom of the top rail and make a mark for the top of the shelf rail.
Attach the rail to the leg with 2½-inch deck screws.
On each end, attach a stile to the rail with 2½-inch deck screws.
The middle stiles are fitted horizontally at 32 inches on center and are secured with 2½-inch deck screws.
Decking
The bottom deck is covered in 7/16-inch-thick oriented strand board. Trim the 48 × 96–inch sheet to 48 × 93 inches.
Put the sheet in place and secure it to the rails and stiles with 1¼-inch deck screws. Do not use black phosphor drywall screws because they are too brittle.
The panel board shelf is covered with 1/4-inch-thick Luan plywood. Trim the 48 × 96–inch sheet to 48 × 93 inches.
Materials
• (17) 2 × 4 × 96 Dimensional lumber
• (1) 3/4 × 48 × 96 Particle board
• (1) 7/16 × 48 × 96 Oriented strand board
• (1) 1/4 × 48 × 96 Luan plywood
• (16) 3½x 3/8 Carriage bolts
• (16) 3/8 Nuts
• (16) 3/8 Flat washers
• (16) 3/8 Split lock washers
• (1 pound) 1¼ Deck screws
• (1 pound) 2½ Deck screws
• 9/16 Staples
