be aware enough to think his way through an obstacle course, which is also why I ensure that agility courses I use never look the same and are always completed in a different obstacle order. I don’t want my horse to become an obedient “robot”—I want to keep him interested.
Horse Agility vs. Trick Training
Is Horse Agility really just teaching your horse to do tricks? By definition, it is: A “trick” is when an animal repeats an “unnatural” behavior for reward. However, by this definition, dressage, show jumping, and polo are also just “tricks”—in fact all horse sports!
What appeals to me about Horse Agility is that by working the horse free, he has the choice about whether he performs or not. Unfortunately, people have been conditioned to believe that horses are dangerous unless they are kept completely under control. Look through any horse magazine or visit any tack shop to see the fantastic array of gadgets designed for such a purpose. However, Horse Agility is all about training—not restraining. You will find there is very little in the way of equipment needed to join in the fun because the sport is about training the horse so that he knows what you want him to do without forcing him with gadgets. Horse Agility is a real testament to your ability as a trainer—you just have to be good at communicating with your horse.
What Would Your Horse Choose to Do?
When you watch dogs race round an agility course, it looks as if they’re having fun: They’re free to choose to run and jump and go around an obstacle if they wish. This kind of “fun” has never been seen in the horse
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world—until now. Where did the myth come from that tells us we need to catch our horse, tie him up in order to perform such daily tasks as grooming or tacking up, then keep him under complete control in case he becomes dangerous in hand or under saddle?
Horse Agility throws all this nonsense out the window and shows you how to go right back to the beginning—back to basics—and think again how you can interact with a horse. To be any good, you need to start from this place. Horses do not need “collars” and “leads” all the time; they will come when you call them and happily do so if you ask in a language they understand. This brings me to a leading question: How do you know when a horse is “happy”? Maybe he doesn’t mind having his mouth tied closed or having his sides whipped? How can you tell? Well, you need to read the horse. You need to know what he looks like when he is—and isn’t—enjoying himself.
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fig. 1.1 a
fig. 1.1 b
1.1 A & B The sport of Horse Agility is one of purpose—the work you do teaching him to handle obstacles in an agility course can be applied to a wide variety of real-life circumstances.
There are two personalities in this partnership: that of the horse and of the handler. The handler gets to choose whether or not she wants to do agility, but the horse does not. Would he choose to? The only way to find out is to start and see what he “says” about it.
So that you can be honest in your answer to this question, the first step is to learn what a “happy” and an “unhappy” horse looks like, and then let him go and see if he still wants to join in the agility fun!
The big advantage of Horse Agility in the way that I have developed it as a training tool is that it can prepare the horse for the real world. It is far better than simply accustoming him to the sights and sounds of flags and cones before venturing out onto the road, for example (figs. 1.1 a & b). You can use the techniques outlined in this book to help you and your horse get used to all manner of real-life situations.
This book shows you how to be safe and become really good at Horse Agility—that is, if you follow it through in the way I have outlined.
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CHAPTER 2
general equipment
You are the most important piece of equipment in the sport of Horse Agility! However, you do need to learn to use some tack and training aids to ensure your safety. Always use your common sense around horses (that is, old-fashioned gut instinct) and avoid doing anything you don’t feel confident about. When you understand horses and the rules by which they play, handling them on the ground not only becomes safe, it actually becomes enjoyable for everyone—including the horse.
Helmet
Whether you wear a safety helmet or hat or not when doing Horse Agility is something you should consider carefully. Your choice will depend on a number of things:
• How well trained is the horse? If he is in the early days of his training he may still be working on a lead rope, thus close to you, which means he could push you over or hit you on the head with his head.
• How well trained is the handler? Do you know how to keep the horse at a safe distance? Are you very young or older?
I always wear a safety helmet when riding, but I only wear one when I’m working on the ground if I don’t know the horse, or I know he needs a bit more training. I believe that once the horse is trained and understands the rules a helmet becomes superfluous: Horse Agility is no more dangerous than Dog Agility when done properly.
Boots and Gloves
Early in training, wear suitable footwear such as strong boots for protection if the horse treads on you. When the horse is trained to higher levels, you should be able to get by with sneakers (trainers). I always wear gloves when working with a lead rope: Should the horse decide to “leave” you, then he can’t burn half the skin off your hands with the lead rope (fig. 2.1 and see p. 9 for more about lead ropes).
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fig. 2.1
2.1 This handler is properly outfitted with suitable safety gear, including a helmet, gloves, sturdy shoes, and a long lead rope.
Tack
No matter how much tack you use, it is only as good as the person using it, so be knowledgeable. Ask yourself:
•. Is it right for your horse?
• Do you have the skills to use it?
• Is the item or gadget really necessary or just a shortcut that will only mask a problem—not cure it?
Halter and Lead Rope
Most horses are perfectly safe and happy in a flat nylon or leather halter (headcollar), but occasionally you may need to resort to something stronger, such as a rope halter or a “pressure” control halter, for retraining purposes (figs. 2.2 a–d). These “stronger” halters are designed to get the horse to listen to you and to know there are signals being conveyed to him through the rope that he needs to respond to. Once he’s been trained (or retrained), use a flat nylon or leather version before moving on to nothing
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