2.2 a
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fig. 2.2 b
fig.2.2 c
fig. 2.2 d
2.2 A–D There are several headstall (headcollar) options when first training (or retraining) a horse prior to working him free. Most horses are safe and happy in a plain leather or flat nylon halter (A). When transitioning from a headstall to nothing at all, you can first use a rope round the neck (B), and if you need more control during early work, you can us a rope halter (C), or a patented “control” halter (D) before moving on to a plain leather one.
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fig. 2.3
2.3 You need to use a longer lead rope than you might be used to—ideally around 10 feet (2.5 meters) in length (see fig. 2.2 a). A longe line, as shown here, is too much line to work with and a safety hazard.
at all. If you rely on the halter rather than communication to control your horse, it is unlikely that you will ever be able to work him free.
You also need a longer lead rope than you may be used to: You need to create a safe distance between you and your horse so that you both have room to work. A rope at least 10 feet (2.5 meters) long is sufficient for training (see fig. 2.2 A). A normal longe line is too long because it can become wrapped around your feet; anything less than 10 feet isn’t long enough to allow the horse to move freely (fig. 2.3).
Other Horse Equipment
When training, the horse can wear a blanket (rug) or sheet to protect him from the elements and pests, if necessary. In some cases, protective leg boots or wraps may be desirable.
Training Area
Access to a round pen or similar area not
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fig. 2.4 a
fig. 2.4 b
2.4 A & B Your ideal training space is enclosed with safe footing. It is helpful to have a small round pen when starting out (A), although small paddocks or taped-off sections of larger stable areas can work just as well (B).
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more than 20 feet (about 6 meters) square for some of the training is most useful, but it is also possible to make a work area by using electric fence tape or jumps to divide an arena into a smaller space (figs. 2.4 A & B).
As you become more confident you will need a larger space to practice in, such as a paddock or full-size arena. Just make certain it is enclosed—you don’t want your horse to run off because it would take some running to keep up with him! A non-slip surface is really important for you and the horse; concrete or slippery grass is not suitable, but dry grass is ideal. You just need to make sure that the footing is safe.
Obstacles for Getting Started
To start your Horse Agility training, you need the following items:
Cones
Cones are useful for all sorts of obstacle building and can be of any design—from small ones, such as those used in sports (and that do not pose a trip hazard) to full-size, traffic-safety cones. Be aware that “liberating” the latter from public roads is theft and could lead to someone getting injured when the cones are not “doing their job.”
You can (legally) purchase cones (I advise acquiring five of them) on the Internet or from stores that sell building supplies.
Tarpaulin, Plastic Sheet, or Carpet
This obstacle can be made of any material you can lay out on the ground for the horse to walk over. You may need to weight it down in windy weather, and for this I suggest two wooden ground poles arranged opposite each other. Tarps, plastic, or carpet that contain holes are not suitable because the horse can catch his leg or hook his shoe in loose fibers, causing the material to become attached to him.
Hula Hoops
These have multiple uses but are mainly for teaching your horse how to “park” in one spot—and for helping you keep your feet still. Hoops can be purchased or made out of old water pipe, and should measure about 3 feet (1 meter) in diameter. They are best when the join in the hoop can come apart should a horse get the hoop wrapped round his legs (yes, this has happened!). You will need two of them.
Ball
The ball you use for agility can be any size. I have balls that range from 4 feet high to a normal-sized soccer ball, but there are many exercise and beach balls in innumerable
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colors and sizes that are perfectly suitable. My advice: Don’t spend a lot on one unless it’s designed specifically for horse use, because they tend to get squashed by horses pretty quickly.
Poles
Having a number of poles on hand for creating jumps and “labyrinths” is a must. I use half-round fencing rails when building a flat maze or corridor because they don’t roll, or you can wedge sand under them for stability. You don’t need to spend a lot of money here—I actually make poles out of tall saplings that grow locally. (They don’t last forever but when they fall apart they can be used for firewood!)
Eight poles will give you many design options, allowing you to give your horse something to think about as he negotiates them. You can place the poles on the ground or lift them up at one end (or both) to make a number of patterns to steer the horse through. Here are some ideas to help you get started:
• One pole can be walked over, jumped over, backed over or side-passed along.
• Two poles laid parallel like a corridor can be backed through.
• Four poles can be laid out in an “L” shape to walk or back through.
• Five poles can make a “T” to walk into, then reverse out.
• Six poles make an “S” bend as described in chapter 12 (p. 126).
• Eight poles can make a zig-zag “W” shape.
• Any number of poles can be lifted at one end onto a tire or block to create a fan shape (p. 126). They can also be laid out parallel to each other at varying distances to encourage to horse to look and walk carefully; then one end of each pole can be lifted up in an alternating pattern.
Are you beginning to get the idea? Poles are great fun and very educational! All these patterns can be walked through or over and are designed to get your horse to think about where he’s putting his feet. Give him time to work it out. He may be hesitant
