roots into any available space! You will find that most herbs can grow in a semi-tropical or Mediterranean climate, and when disturbed by the wind, gives you that wonderful aroma evocative of the Tropics, that is certainly worth cultivating if you can.
Fresh herbs, especially the trusty lemongrass and ginger, are unbelievable in their aroma, intensity and staying power. Even after being cooked, a sauce or sambal made with fresh herbs can always be picked out and a trained palate can always distinguish between the crunch of lemongrass or the bite of curry leaf or even the sweet, suffering touch of pepper-like Vietnamese mint.
Although I may wax lyrical about fresh herbs, I realize that in many communities, and even in the large cities, they may not be available, especially in winter. So feel free to use dried herbs if you must, making sure you check the use-by date. It’s better to use a dried herb than no herb at all. Enjoy an herbal experience whenever you can and enjoy their perfumes in your food and in your life!
Asian basils ~
On my first trip to Thailand many years ago, I attended a class with Charlie Amatyakul, the chef at the Oriental Hotel Cooking School. Charlie’s set-up was ideal—small groups of students, an extensive working space and exclusive attendees. While I wondered what I would be doing, in came the ingredients in large bowls and we started touching, feeling, smelling and sorting them. Soon the whole classroom turned into an aromatic atrium filled with the fragrances of aniseed, mint, citrus and rose. It was a shock to the system although I had used most of these herbs in my cooking before. But never in such profusion or variety. Basil was the first herb I picked up and held to my nose with my eyes closed. The scent of the leaves was comforting, sharp and almost healing—I had never taken notice of such a strong aroma from this herb. I looked again; this was what Charlie called Thai basil: red veins giving way to dark purple florets and firm green leaves. This was the beginning of my own love affair with Thai basil, the herb that is used whenever Thai food is cooked. The bite of the leaf produces a surprising flavor and aroma at the back of the throat; pleasant and memorable.
A bunch of fresh dark green basil sprigs held in your hands and pressed to your nostrils to release the peppery aniseed aroma is about as close as you can get to the aroma of hospitality. It is one of the oldest herbs in cultivation, used by many of the world’s cooks both in Europe and Asia. There are many different basils used in different regions of the world. The European basil is slightly different, with hairier stems and droopy leaves.
Asian basils come in three different varieties. The most common of the three has an intense aroma and is generally known as Thai basil (horapa in Thai; daun kemangi in Malaysia and Indonesia). Lemon-scented basil (manglak in Thai) is usually cooked rather than eaten raw. Holy basil or kaprow in Thai has a strong, sharp aroma and is used only in a few dishes. It is so called because the Hindus consider it sacred. A basil plant brought to a new home brings blessings, said a Croatian friend of mine when she walked into my new house—a good indication that traditions of herbs in food are found both in the East and West dating back to ancient times.
Purchasing: Look for brightly-colored, fresh basil with leaves that stand firm, without any hint of wilting. If you press a leaf between your fingers, this should release a strong aroma.
Culinary uses Used in stir-fries, in salads with each leaf picked and tossed together with other ingredients, or as a garnish for steamed fish. A Basil Pesto is easy to prepare: process 1 cup (40 g) of chopped fresh basil, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of olive oil, 2–3 cloves of garlic and 2 green finger-length chili peppers (deseeded) with 6 macadamia nuts in a food processor until smooth, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This Pesto may be used as a stir-fry starter with garlic and ginger, or added to a curry paste for an extra “bite,” or served as a dip with cheese and yogurt.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well. Tender leaves can be used but separate the leaves from the harder stems.
Storing: Wrap the leaves (still on the stems) in paper towels and refrigerate in a covered container or sealed plastic bag for 2–3 days. If the stems droop, refresh them in ice cold water for a couple of hours before using.
Substitutes: European basil is a good substitute though it may not have as much bite and aroma as the Asian basil. And you may have to use more than the required amount or grind it for more aroma and flavor.
Banana leaves, flowers and stems ~
Every part of the banana plant can be used: the leaves, flower, fruit and stems. The banana leaf—dark green and about 3 feet (1 meter) long—grows like a long and wide palm leaf and is commonly used to cover or wrap foods in Asia. It has a light grassy and wax-like aroma that transfers to any food cooked in it and is used as the natural “aluminum foil” of the East. In Asian homes, banana leaf is a sensual steaming wrapper for rice, fish or meat smeared with some lemongrass, garlic and other herbs. The steaming cooks the food and imparts the subtle perfume of the light, grassy leaf which adds an unmatched aroma.
A common dish of rice cooked with coconut milk and garnished with curried shrimp, then folded and steamed in a banana leaf has an unmistakable perfume that is irresistable to the diner. The many aromas of this dish, called nasi lemak, coalesce to form an unforgettable moment of sensory indulgence. By contrast, the unopened male flower of the banana plant is a popular vegetable throughout tropical Asia, like a fragrant cabbage. It can be found in specialty stores outside Asia, particularly those stocking Vietnamese and Thai ingredients.
Purchasing: Both banana leaves and flowers are obtainable from Asian markets. Look for the leaves wrapped in large bundles. They are usually sold by weight, with the thick center ribs removed and the leaf portions folded. The flowers should be fresh and firm, without any wilting.
Culinary uses: Because of their natural wax content, banana leaves make ideal wrappers for food and are even used to provide a wax coating on irons, to make ironing easier! They are also used as decorations for the table and as plates. In Indian vegetarian homes and restaurants, banana leaves are the preferred service platters because no meat has previously touched them. According to Indian etiquette, the rib edge should be placed at the head of the table setting, away from the diner. After eating, the leaf is folded away to indicate that you have finished eating. If you fold it the other way it means you want a second helping. Cooked banana flowers are often made into salads in Southeast Asia. Blanched fine shreds can be added to dressings and soups, or simmered in seasoned coconut milk.
Preparation: Remove and discard the thick central rib of the banana leaf and use only the flat leafy part. Before using it to wrap food, blanch the leaf in a basin of boiling water for a few seconds or heat it directly over a flame to make it pliable for easy folding. A toothpick or skewer threaded through the end is often the only thing needed to hold wrapped parcels together. To prepare the banana flower, pull off the outer petals and the long, narrow yellow blossoms until the pinkish white inner heart is revealed. Then use the heart as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: The leaves and flower will keep in a loosely packed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Substitutes: Bamboo shoots or cabbage can be used in place of banana flower for a crunchy texture. A good substitute for wrapping purposes is lotus leaf or aluminum foil.
Coriander leaves ~ cilantro
The coriander leaf, almost mandatory in Asian cooking, has the most complex of herb flavors: it
