of lime, and almost pungent and curry-like, all at the same time. Fresh coriander leaves are invigorating— warm and minty in flavor and perfume—although the roots are peppery and bitter.
Someone not familiar with the aroma of coriander leaf may find it overpowering. When I was a child, we used it copiously in our home, but I would shy away from the aroma. The warm and minty herb reminded me of the stinkbug, and as I later found out, the name “coriandrum” indeed means stinkbugs, which perhaps explains the aversion I had to the herb!
It is a popular herb used in all types of Asian dishes, from soups to salads. It’s a useful herb to have in the garden and is readily available in both Eastern and Western markets since the Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Mexican cuisines all use it copiously. All parts of the coriander plant are used. The leaves are used as a garnish or in curries, the seeds are used in curry pastes in Creole and Mexican cooking, and the pungent roots are mainly ground into Thai curries. This was the original heat enhancer for “spicy” foods along with ginger and pepper before chili peppers came to Asia.
To sniff deeply of a coriander plant is a refreshing experience as the aromas of pepper and lime combine with the lingering aroma of aniseed. I have noticed that a simple steak cooked with a bit of garlic and onion is transformed into something special when a few coriander leaves are thrown into the pan just before the meat is done. The same goes for chicken dishes. There is a lightness in coriander leaves that lifts the meat. Yet when it is used with seafood, a different kind of aroma is produced, raising an awareness of lemon this time. Perhaps this happens unconsciously, as we often think of mixing lime and lemon with seafood. However when I add coriander stems, leaves and ground roots to a green shrimp curry, the final result always astonishes my guests.
Purchasing: Always buy the whole plants with roots attached, as they keep better that way. The leaves should be fresh and bright, not droopy, and the stems should be firm.
Culinary uses: Fresh leaves are often chopped and added to salads and fillings in Asia cuisines, or ground and added to spice pastes in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. They are also commonly used as an edible garnish in soups and noodle dishes. To use the leaves, do not chop them unless you want the flavors to diffuse with the cooking. They are best added just before the end of the cooking as the leaves are the most pungent and flavorsome then. Try not to use the stems. When stems are ground into a curry, especially green curry, David Thompson refers to the result as “muddy.” The Thais use the roots in their curries because of its pungent peppery flavor.
A simple recipe for Coriander Leaf Pesto: Storing Process 2 cups (80 g) chopped coriander leaves, 1–2 deseeded green Asian finger-length chili peppers and 1 cup (100 g) grated coconut to a smooth paste in a food processor, then season with the juice of 1 lime and add sugar and salt to taste. Use it as you would a regular pesto, or turn it into a sauce for steamed or baked fish by adding some coconut milk to it.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well, then use them either whole, chopped or ground, as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: Wrap the plants loosely in paper towels and store in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Store any leftover leaves or roots in the freezer in foil. To refresh a droopy plant, soak it in ice water before using. In a mild Mediterranean climate, it is possible to grow this herb in pots which can be picked fresh for your enjoyment as needed.
Substitutes: Dried coriander leaves do not have the wonderful flavor and aroma of fresh ones, although they can be used.
Curry leaves ~
A relative of the orange blossom, these leaves have a distinctive lemon-pepper fragrance with tinges of lime and ginger that may contribute to the impression that it is “curry-like.” It is today associated with South Indian and Southeast Asian curries, especially in combination with coriander, cumin, fennel, ginger and chili peppers.
The curry leaf plant grows only to the height of a small bush in equatorial Malaya, but can grow much taller in more temperate regions. I remember being quite confused as a child when I read about explorers traveling through the forests of north India. Their elephants reached up to chew on some aromatic branches which filled the forest with the perfume of curry, lime and pepper. It was difficult to imagine this as our curry leaf plant at home in tropical Malaysia barely reached 2 feet (60 cm)! It was only when I grew a curry leaf plant in my backyard in Sydney that I realized the plant positively thrives in temperate climates, perfuming the surrounding area with its seductive aroma.
There are different ways to use the curry leaves to vary their aroma and flavor. Dried curry leaves have very little flavor compared to fresh leaves, and should only be used when fresh leaves are unavailable. Reconstitute the dried leaves by soaking them in warm water, then add them to curries, omelets and salads. Another way to heighten the flavor is through the Indian trick of heating some oil and frying the curry leaves very quickly so they crisp and infuse the oil with flavor. When they are shallow-fried with onions and added to omelets and other dishes, they release a different flavor, which is just as effective, yet lighter in aroma.
Purchasing: Fresh almond-shaped leaves are generally sold on the stem, and are sometimes picked and packed in plastic bags. Look for green and firm, fresh-looking leaves.
Culinary uses: Curry leaves may be chopped or ground into a simple pesto (page 30) and are used in many traditional Southeast Asian and Indian dishes. To enhance the flavor of curry leaves, cover them with 2 teaspoons of oil and microwave or fry for 2 minutes until crisp. These crispy-fried leaves are ideal as a garnish for curries, salads and Indian dal recipes.
Preparation: Wash and dry the sprigs, then pull the leaves off the stems before using.
Storing: Wrap in several layers of damp paper towels and refrigerate in a covered container for up to 2 weeks. Freeze in the same way as coriander leaves.
Substitutes: Dried curry leaves, though not as fragrant, can be used, or substitute fresh coriander leaves instead.
Garlic chives ~
Also known as Chinese or Asian chives, this vegetable is indigenous to Siberia, Mongolia and northern China. As its name implies, garlic chives have a strong garlicky aroma and flavor. Regular garlic chives resemble coarse, flat blades of dark green grass. An exception to this is flowering chives, which have an unopened flower or bud at the tip of their long, slender stalks.
Sliced garlic chives, with a hint of garlic and grassy flavors with a peppery edge, are the perfect addition to any noodle dish. For an awesome aromatic hit, uncover noodles which have “sweated” in a wok full of garlic chives, and you will be struck by a wave of grassy garlic and crisp-frying onion aromas.
My favorites are the dark-green, flat-stemmed garlic chives, which are quite unlike the tiny, round-stemmed chives common in Western cooking. Their garlicky aroma, the main ingredient in the Malaysian char kway teow noodle dish and Chili Crabs, makes this an invaluable herb in my vegetable garden. Light green garlic chives are cultivated by covering the plant with black plastic bags to prevent the sunlight from reaching them. This reduces the chlorophyll in the plant and produces a lighter color, but does not affect the flavor.
Garlic chives can be domestically cultivated in large pots if you find yourself as addicted to the herb as I do. The chives may be used instead of green onions in any dish. I use them finely chopped in omelets instead of fried garlic and onion. Garlic chives also form the aromatic basis for many Chinese dim sums such as pork dumplings, which are commonly found in yum cha trolleys, and in the chive pancakes cooked in northern China.
