Sautéed Greens and Cilantro (page 58) and Cauliflower Meat Sauce (page 110), i’ll go one step further and say that a Mincing Knife/Mezzaluna (page 16) does a decent mincing job. However, there are a few dishes where the integrity of the herb is of utmost importance and so chiffonading is the best technique; one such dish is tabbouleh (page 44). Before chiffonading any herb, wash the herb and let it dry completely (water can cause it to blacken quicker). To cut up large, flat-leafed herbs (such as mint, basil, and sage), pick the leaves off their stems and stack about eight to ten leaves; tightly roll the stack lengthwise into a cigar shape, then use a sharp paring knife to thinly slice across the cigar, creating little ribbons. Parsley is a bit more difficult to chiffonade since the leaves are smaller and more irregularly shaped; don’t let this deter you though, once you get the hang of it, it really will be quick work. The method for chiffonading parsley is described in the recipe for tabbouleh.
Cooking Dried Beans and Lentils: As a general rule of thumb, I use canned beans but dried lentils (which cook much quicker than dried beans) for cooking. Of course, there are a few recipes for which dried beans are noticeably better, such as hummus (page 79) and Falafel (page 81), and for those select few I take the extra time to cook dried beans. If you want to use dried beans be sure to plan ahead, since most should be soaked in cold water for 12 to 24 hours, during which time the beans will swell as they absorb water. (if you’re really pressed for time, here’s a trick that my mom taught me: add the [unsoaked] beans to a large pot and cover with water; bring up to a boil, boil 3 minutes, then turn the heat off, cover the pot and let the beans sit for one hour; drain and proceed with cooking the beans.) After soaking, drain the beans and add them to a large pot with fresh water; bring them to a boil over high heat, then turn the heat down slightly and boil until they’re tender, adding more water as necessary so that they are immersed, (the exact amount of time will vary depending on several factors, including what kind of bean you’re using, how old the beans are, and even the weather); this generally takes one to two hours for chickpeas. (Don’t add salt or acid—such as lemon juice, tomato, or vinegar —to the water as the beans cook, since these can cause the skins to toughen; instead, season the beans once they’re tender.) Also, during the cooking process, the skin on the beans will sometimes come off; you can pick through the beans to remove it if you want. This step is fairly time-consuming and is optional; I may or may not do it depending on how I plan to use the beans. However, i’ve noticed that when I take the time to pick out the skins when I make the hummus, I end up with a much creamier consistency. Here are the general equivalent measurements for canned and dried beans: 1 (approximately 16 oz/500 g) can of beans = 1¾ cups = ²⁄ ³ cup (4¾ oz/135 g) dry beans.
Cooking Eggplant: First things first, when you’re buying your eggplant, look for smaller fruits rather than larger ones, since they will usually be less bitter and have fewer seeds. Eggplant should be smooth and shiny, and feel heavy for its size. If it’s ripe, when you gently press a finger into it, the eggplant should give a bit but the indentation should spring back; if the flesh doesn’t spring back, it’s probably over-ripe and if it doesn’t give at all, it’s probably under-ripe. If eggplant is being roasted whole, such as for Roasted Eggplant Salad (page 44) or Eggplant Dip (page 64), it should not be peeled; other than that, peeling eggplant is based generally on personal preference. I usually peel larger ones and don’t peel smaller ones, but sometimes I partially peel them for a striped appearance. After peeling, slice the eggplant into about ¼ to ½-inch (6 mm to 1.25 cm) thick slices; salt both sides of each slice, place the eggplant in a colander, and put the colander in the sink for 30 minutes. During this time you will notice a brownish liquid seep out (this is normal), which will help reduce the eggplant’s bitterness. After that, rinse the eggplant under cold running water; gently wring it out, and then pat it dry. At this point, the eggplant can be deep or shallow-fried, or brushed with a little olive oil and grilled or broiled until golden on both sides. Prepared this way, eggplant is perfect for Fried Eggplant with Garlic and Parsley Dressing (page 53) or upside-Down Rice Casserole (page 114).
Cooking with Yogurt: Yogurt is often used to make wonderfully tangy, yet creamy soups like Lamb and Yogurt Soup (page 109) and sauces such as the sauce in Stuffed Squash in Yogurt Sauce (page 104). The only issue with cooking yogurt is that it has to be given a bit of extra care to prevent curdling. For starters, don’t use a fat-free yogurt, since a higher fat content helps prevent curdling; full fat is best but reduced-fat will also work. Making sure your yogurt is at room temperature when you’re ready to use it also helps. Use the amount of cornstarch and (sometimes) egg that are specified in each recipe, as these ingredients are added to both thicken and stabilize the yogurt. Lastly, yogurt should always be cooked gently (medium heat or lower is best), while being stirred constantly in one direction with a wooden spoon.
Frying Basics: Middle Eastern cooks don’t seem to shy away from deep or shallow frying, since many recipes— from Fried Eggplant with Garlic and Parsley Dressing (page 53) to Falafel (page 81) to Spicy Potatoes (page 57)— all contain fried components. If you follow proper frying procedures, food doesn’t absorb an excessive amount of oil; instead, you’re left with a crispy exterior and tender interior. When you fry, make sure to choose the right oil; in Middle Eastern cooking, good quality corn oil is typically used for frying, but any good oil with a high smoke point will work. The next point to consider is what vessel to fry in; if you’re deep-frying look for a large heavy-bottomed pot with deep sides (you can fill it up about one-third to one-half of the way with oil) and if you’re shallow-frying, a large skillet (preferably with a heavy bottom) will work (about ½ inch / 1.25 cm) of oil in the bottom of the skillet is usually perfect. Make sure the oil is up to temperature before adding the food; for most recipes, 350 to 375˚F (175 to 190˚C) is just right, and ensure your food is patted completely dry before adding it. When you (carefully) add the food, be sure not to overcrowd the pan. (this will drop the temperature too much, causing your food to be soggy and greasy.) when your food is cooked, transfer it immediately to a paper towel-lined plate to drain any excess oil; also, this is the best time to salt the food since it will be absorbed best (other than eggplant, which is salted before frying to reduce the bitterness; see Cooking Eggplant on page 11). A very useful tool for frying is the spider strainer (page 17) and also, something called a splatter guard, which is a circular mesh cover with a handle that is placed on pans when frying to prevent oil from spattering out. Of course, if you really don’t want to fry in the traditional way, “oven-frying” is also an option for most foods; in this method, foods are lightly coated in oil and cooked in a hot oven until crisp outside and soft inside. For a description of “oven-frying” as pertaining to cauliflower, see the recipe for Cauliflower Meat Sauce on page 110.
Hollowing Out Vegetables to Stuff: in Middle Eastern cuisine, about any vegetable is stuffed. A few favorites are tomatoes, small bell peppers, cabbage, grape leaves, small potatoes, baby eggplants, and marrow squashes (see Marrow Squash, page 120). If you can’t find marrow squash, zucchini is a good substitute; look for small zucchini, about 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long that are as straight as possible, which can be cut in half so that each half can be hollowed out. Cabbage and grape leaves don’t need to be hollowed out; they are simply rolled up tightly with stuffing. tomatoes and bell peppers are easy to hollow out: just cut off the top where the stem is and scoop the insides out. To hollow out potatoes, eggplant, and marrow squash (or zucchini), you will need a vegetable corer (page 17). For marrow squash, zucchini, or eggplant, trim off both the stem and blossom ends. Hold the fruit in one hand and insert a vegetable corer into the center, gently rotating the fruit so it turns around the corer; remove the corer, set the pulp aside, and continue gently scraping the inside of fruit; continue this way until you have a shell about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. For potatoes, choose medium-sized vegetables and peel them before you start coring; core them the same way you would eggplant, zucchini, or marrow squash,
