which come from the Kwanso region (the northwestern part of the peninsula) are unusual in that they are made of porcelain. No one is sure exactly why or when such porcelain crocks were developed, but most extant examples are from late in the Choson Dynasty. In form and decoration, they show the influence of the blue-on-white porcelain tradition; indeed, some examples seem to have been made using identical techniques. A few decades ago it was common to see small white porcelain jars and vases decorated with blue peonies sitting on the rice chest in the wooden floor of a traditional home, adding a touch of elegance to the decor, but in the Kwanso region, better-off families went so far as to have their large crocks made of porcelain. Peonies are the most common motif used on haeju dok, but other common motifs include fish and flowers.
A folk painting by an unknown artist of the Choson Dynasty. The radish was probably introduced to Korea in the 1st century BC.
The eggplant seems to have originated in southeast Asia or India and probably came to Korea via China some time before the 5th century. It is easily grown; the variety most commonly found in Korea is the long, black-purple type as pictured here.
There are many such dishes in Korean cookery. For example, shinsollo is a stew containing the Five Colors in the form of meat, fish, vegetables, stone mushrooms, walnuts, ginkgo nuts, chestnuts, pine nuts and threads of dried chili. Rainbow rice cakes have multi-colored layers reminiscent of traditional Korean striped garments. Not only are the colors and tastes combined; the sources of the various ingredients also make for a spatial mixture, as they are taken from the fields, the mountains, the sea and even the sky (fowl).
It is not only the dishes themselves that mirror this concept of Korean cosmology. It is also the way that they are eaten. At a Korean meal all the dishes are placed on the table at the same time: the rice, the soup, the vegetables, the meat, the fish and even the rice cakes or shikhye which serve as dessert. The meal is distinguished by the number of side dishes - five, seven, or more, and is consumed with a spoon and-chopsticks at the same time. The blandness of the rice counteracts the flavors of the meat and fish dishes, and the kimchee clears the palate in order to taste the next dish.
Thus it may be seen that the preparation, the dishes themselves and the consumption of the meal are part and parcel of Korean culture, belief and cosmology. It is believed that the taste of Korean food is the taste of the harmonization of heaven, earth and man. As one eats kimchee, one eats the universe, and in so doing becomes part of the universe and the universe becomes part of man. It is much more than simply sitting down for a meal!
A view of a market from more recent times. Cabbage was mentioned in Korean documents as long ago as the Koryo Dynasty, but the cabbage of that period was not popularly eaten because it was small and had a sparse core. Today's cabbage is easy to cultivate, has a pleasant taste, and pickles well, making it the predominant vegetable for use in kimchee. When someone uses the word 'kimchee', cabbage kimchee is generally implied. Cabbages with big, densely packed heads were not grown in Korea until the 1850s.
INGREDIENTS: VEGETABLES
Vegetables compose the main 'body' of each individual kimchee. Their freshness and quality are of paramount importance. Make your local Asian grocer the first port of call for kimchee ingredients. Some are a little obscure, in which case substitutions have been suggested.
KOREAN CABBAGE, PAECH'U
Baicai, wong nga bak or ta paak tsai, meaning 'white vegetable,' are all the same. The vegetable has a long shape, like cos lettuce, with closely packed pale green to white leaves. The leaves are very delicate in flavour. There are two types-one with narrower leaves and a longer stem, and the other has broader leaves and is more squat.
GOURD, PAK
Gourds are members of the squash (Cucurbitaceae) family, with a delicately flavoured flesh. Dried gourd strips are also popular in Korea. For gourd kimchee, hollow out the gourd, peel and dice the flesh. Salt, rinse and drain, then season with chili pepper powder and threads of red pepper. Add sliced scallions and pear, and ladle a brine of anchovies over it.
CUCUMBER, OI
A popular vegetable on the Korean table. Cucumber grows well without special fertilization or watering; if you are buying them, choose young, slender varieties, preferably with thin skins. Zucchini is not a substitute.
BELLFLOWER ROOT, TORAJI
Westerners saw a bell in this blue flower and so named it 'bellflower.' Because of their appearance, bellflower and ginseng roots have been symbols of the male. The roots are steeped in brine or rubbed with salt to remove the bitter taste; or tossed in a seasoning of chili pepper powder, leek, and crushed garlic; and fermented. Or they could be processed like kkaktugi, a somewhat dry, diced radish kimchee. Omit if the fresh is not available.
RADISH, MU
Also known by its Japanese name, daikon, Korea is famous for the sheer variety of its radish dishes. Choose firm, unblemished specimens, if possible with some greenery attached, which is edible. Scrub well before grating or slicing for use raw in salads or pickle whole.
LETTUCE, SANGCH'U
The word sangch'u seems to have originated from saengch'ae, 'raw vegetable,' from the fact that it is usually eaten raw. Any soft-leafed lettuce may be used, for instance butter, mignonette or coral.
CHIVES, PUCH'U
Chives are known to have come "from the northwestern part of China. Use the flat-leafed Chinese variety as far as possible. The conventional chive is a reasonable substitute, but doesn't hold as well as the flat-leafed variety.
KOREAN LETTUCE SSUMBAGWI
Korea is perhaps the only country to enjoy kimchee made of bitter ssumbagwi and kodulppaegi (Ixeris sonchifolia, a variety of lettuce). For an inauthentic substitute, try other bitter leaves such as curly endive (frisee) or rocket (arugula).
EGGPLANT, KAJI,
Eggplant is thought to have originated in Southeast Asia and India, and is also used in Korean recipes. Use slender (Japanese) eggplants, not the bulbous variety—the seeds are too large and they need salting before they can be used.
DRIED
