also dried for use in the colder months for a variety of dishes, including shiraegi-kuk, a soup made with soybean paste and the dried leaves, a staple in ordinary Korean households, May be available in packets from good Asian grocers.
LEEK, P'A
Traditionally, leek was eaten with raw fish in spring and Indian mustard in winter; today, it is still an indispensible ingredient in fish dishes, as it neutralizes the fishy taste and removes harmful elements. Choose leeks that are firm, and wash them carefully to remove all the grit.
KOREAN WATERCRESS, MINARI
A seasonal garden green highly prized by Korean people for its taste, its crunchy texture, and its fragrance. Unless you know someone who has grown minari from seed, you'll have to use western-style watercress, which is more readily available. Wash and dry well before using.
INGREDIENTS: SEASONINGS AND PICKLED FISH
The seasonings and pickled fish and fish pastes are the ingredients that are used to stuff the vegetables in kimchee. During the fermentation process, it is these vital ingredients that produce the variety of flavors that make kimchee so distinctive.
GINGER, SAENGGANG
The taste of ginger is harmonious with most vegetables, and improves the flavor of food but does not spoil its original flavor. It is a popular seasoning of various kimchees. Use young ginger, and peel before using.
GARLIC, MANUL
Old Chinese books record that garlic was first brought to China during the Han Dynasty. The Korean prize garlic for its powerful smell and sharp taste. Choose firm heads (quorms).
CHILI, KOCH'U
A pungent spice that prevents the acidification of vegetables and the deterioration of lipids in pickled fish, it gives most kimchee their distinctive red color. Koch'ujang (red pepper paste) - known as Korean chili bean paste, available in jars from good Asian grocers -is made by fermenting soybean paste and red pepper powder.
WILD ROCAMBOLE, TALLAE
A plant (Allium monanthum) that used to grow all over China, which the Chinese called xiaosuan, 'small garlic.' Wild rocambole has been known to be a therapeutic plant from the earliest times. People enjoyed seasoned wild rocambole, wild rocambole kimchee, and wild rocambole kkaktugi. Omit if not available.
INDIAN MUSTARD, KAT
In general, kat, or Indian mustard, is like mustard seed, a variety of the Brassica juncea family. Use the brownish or reddish-brown seeds, available from Indian and Asian grocers and stores.
SALT, SOGUM
Most Koreans eat a mainly vegetarian diet and need more sodium than meat eaters. Use coarse sea salt for making kimchee unless otherwise specified. Salt is also an important element in fermentation, and contributes a 'tertiary' taste, a more complex flavour, to dishes.
PICKLED SHRIMP, SAEUJOT
Pickled shrimps are one of the earliest pickled foods in Korea and are much prized. They have a very strong and pungent smell, and are sold in glass jars. Use as condiment.
SPONGY SEAWEED (GLUE PLANT), CH'ONGGAK
A maritime algae that has a rich fragrance and a pleasant crunchy texture. It grows on rocks to be as thick as wire and as long as seven to ten centimeters. Because it branches like antlers, it is called ch'onggakch'ae or nokkakch'ae, 'green antler seaweed.' It is usually bought dried and then soaked in water for cooking. A dash of vinegar gives it a liveliness. Spongy seaweed is indispensable in juicy kimchees. It completely dispels the fishy smell of pickled fish and neutralizes the smell of garlic and the taste of excessively strong spices. It enriches the spiciness and fragrance of kimchee and takes away the aftertaste.
PICKLED AND SPICED OYSTERS, ORIGULJOT
Oyster dishes in Korea date back to the very earliest times. Today, they are eaten raw or fermented. Since the introduction of chili, Koreans have made origuljot, or salted oysters spiced with red-pepper powder and varied seasonings.
PICKLED SQUID, OJINGOJOT
The ten-tentacled squid is also a popular ingredient in kimchee-making. Choose from dried or fresh varieties.
PICKLED CORBINA, CHOGIJOT
There are about 13,000 kinds of fish in the world, of which about 350 kinds find their way to the dinner table. Koreans eat 150 kinds, and hold the corbina in high regard. Salted corbina has also greatly contributed to the development of the art of fermenting kimchee. While not authentic, other varieties of salted fish will do at a pinch.
PICKLED FISH, CHOTKAL
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