in mind for both safety and enjoyment. Climbing behind other parties on ice routes usually brings with it the danger of dislodged ice, and this is best avoided if at all possible. In thawing conditions there can be a very real danger from ice and rock fall, particularly in some of the easier gullies, where the rock may be of dubious quality and can be loosened by freeze–thaw action during the winter. Hooking and torquing of axes behind blocks can leaver them off, especially if the ground is not well frozen. There have been serious accidents resulting from both rock and ice fall.
Route Lengths
Route lengths are the combination of pitch lengths. For some routes, especially easier gullies, this value is approximate, as there is often not a clearly defined boundary between the approach slopes and the start of the route. Ropes of 50m are sufficient for the majority of routes, although 60m ropes will sometimes be quite handy, especially when trying to run it out to the plateau. Pitch lengths are given on some routes to help with route finding. On many easier routes where it is possible to belay in numerous places, pitch lengths are often not given or required.
Recommended Routes
As this is a selective guide some routes have been excluded, and all the climbs that have been included are worthwhile and have some positive features. However, a star system has been used to indicate quality. This has been done by considering all the features which make up a climb – length, line, escapability, how sustained it is, and the quality of the climbing. Since winter is such a variable environment, climbing routes in poor conditions may not warrant their stars. The stars are pointers – something to argue about – and, above all, subjective!
Aladdin’s Seat in Coire an t-Sneachda, with John Lyall standing on top (photo: John Lyall collection)
Diagrams and route numbers
In the guide all the main crags are illustrated by topo diagrams, although all routes may not be shown. For those crags without diagrams, the text should be sufficient to locate and follow the routes. Most crags have the routes described from left to right, but in a few cases, such as Hell’s Lum, where the normal approach to the crag is from the right, the routes are described from right to left. In such cases this is clearly indicated. All directions refer to a climber facing the cliff unless otherwise stated, such as for descents. Not all routes are shown (numbered) on the diagrams in order to avoid overcrowding. A broken line on a diagram indicates that a section of the climb is hidden. The numbered routes offer good reference points for adjacent non-numbered climbs. Indexes of routes are given at the end of the guide.
Maps
The climbing areas described in this guide are covered by a range of maps in the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger series. The Lochnagar/Creag an Dubh Loch area is covered by Sheet 44, entitled Ballater & Glen Clova; the Cairn Gorm area is covered by Sheet 36, Grantown & Aviemore. Part of the area is also on Sheet 43, Braemar & Blair Atholl.
The OS Explorer maps at 1:25,000 scale also cover the area. Use Sheet 403, Cairn Gorm & Aviemore, for the Central and Northern Cairngorms; Sheet 404, Braemar, Tomintoul, Glen Avon, for Beinn a Bhuird; and Sheet 388, Lochnagar, Glen Muick & Glen Clova, for Lochnagar, Creag an Dubh Loch and Glen Clova.
Creag Meagaidh is covered by Landranger Sheet 34, Fort Augustus; Sheet 42, Glen Garry & Loch Rannoch; and Explorer Sheet 401, Loch Laggan & Creag Meagaidh. Harvey Maps produce the 1:25,000 Superwalker series maps. Three of these – The Cairngorms, Ben Avon and Lochnagar – cover most of the crags in this guidebook. Harvey also produce a series of 1:40,000 Mountain Maps, of which The Cairngorms and Lochnagar sheet covers most of the area.
The ability to use a map and compass correctly is essential for all winter mountaineers and climbers.
GPS systems can provide a useful back-up to more traditional map and compass skills, and it is recommended that they are used in this way, rather than as the sole navigational aid. Walking on the bearing obtained from a traditional compass will nearly always be steadier than following that from its satellite-driven GPS cousin. The location of the foot of some routes is given by a bearing from a prominent feature for some crags to aid their location in poor visibility.
Access rights
The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 established statutory rights of responsible access to land and inland water for outdoor recreation and crossing land. These are known as Scottish access rights. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code (available from www.snh.gov.uk) gives detailed guidance on the responsibilities of those exercising access rights and of those managing land and water. The Act sets out where and when access rights apply, and how land should be managed with regard to access. The Code defines how access rights should be exercised.
Loch Avon, Carn Etchachan and the Shelter Stone Crag
The three principles for responsible access apply to both the public and land managers.
Respect the interests of other people – be considerate, respect privacy and livelihoods and the needs of those enjoying the outdoors.
Care for the environment – look after the places you visit and enjoy, and care for wildlife and historic sites.
Take responsibility for your own actions – the outdoors cannot be made risk-free for people exercising access rights; land managers should act with care for people’s safety.
Equipment
Ice axe and crampons are essential for any winter outing, whether walking or climbing. For climbing it is assumed that two tools are used, with either curved or inclined picks. Climbing with leashless tools is becoming more popular at all grades – however, they lend themselves particularly to the higher grades. Unless you are very confident with these tools, lanyards connecting them to your harness are recommended.
Crampons should have front points and be adjusted accurately to fit the boots. They should be securely attached to the boots by either straps or a clip-on arrangement. The boots themselves should be rigid, with a good sole for step-kicking, and be able to take crampons. Ill-fitting crampons can be a positive danger in winter.
For any winter climbing a helmet should be considered mandatory. There is always the risk of being hit by falling ice, even from the most skilled and considerate leader. Besides, a helmet provides good insulation from the cold!
A normal rack of gear covering a reasonable range of crack sizes is usually sufficient. Camming devices can still work well on granite in winter if the interior of the cracks are ice-free, but should always be treated more carefully than in summer. A few pegs may be necessary on some routes, but the majority of climbs, especially on buttresses, can be done safely without them. Ice screws are obviously needed on ice routes. One or two drive-in/screw-out pegs such as warthogs, or bulldog-style ice hooks, are quite versatile and can be invaluable when hammered into frozen turf if nothing else is available. Try to match the gear to the climb and avoid being burdened by unnecessary weight.
A complete water- and windproof shell outer layer is necessary, as is spare clothing and food. A synthetic belay jacket that can be pulled on over a waterproof shell is also useful in a team. As the name suggests this can be worn by the belayer, who seconds the pitch wearing it and then passes it over to his/her partner before starting to lead the next pitch. Also essential is a head-torch and adequate battery power. A bivvy bag of some type is a worthwhile addition. Extra gloves are extremely useful, especially in damper conditions, when having
