of a stable consolidated layer. The back or sidewall of the pit is inspected for snow layers of differing hardness. Significant differences in hardness between adjacent snow layers can be a warning sign. A pit can be dug quickly with an axe and need not be elaborate to give relevant information. Even the resistance felt when pushing the axe into the snow may reveal much about the layers. However, due to local variations in the properties of snow, any snow pit or test will only give information about one point, and must be considered as part of the overall picture.
Route choice and safety precautions
A number of factors influence route choice in avalanche terrain (here route choice is not limited to a climb, but includes all movement in the mountains). Ridges, buttresses and flat ground are safer than open slopes. Windward slopes are generally safer than lee slopes, but even here local variations in topography can create a localised avalanche hazard. Convex slopes are more likely to slide than concave ones, and gullies or depressions tend to concentrate avalanche depth and power. Even a very small area of windslab can represent a hazard if the run-out is into rocks, over a drop, or into a terrain trap such as a stream-bed or similar hollow where the debris can be funnelled and build up to considerable depths. Some very serious accidents have occurred where the slab that released was only about the size of a mattress.
In very snowy conditions, ridges and buttresses usually provide the safest and best climbing conditions – here teams enjoy the Fiacaill Ridge
The need to travel on a suspect slope varies according to the circumstances. For example, it is seldom if ever necessary on the way up the hill in the morning, when you can vary the route or even retreat. However, it may be forced on you on the way down, in bad weather or in the dark. Travel one at a time between islands of safety and watch the person moving. Never assume that if one person crosses safely then there is no danger – this is not the case – but all use the same track. Tighten clothing, remove wrist loops and loosen rucksack straps so that it can be abandoned if necessary. If a slope has to be crossed, then traverse it high up rather than low down to reduce the amount of snow above, and thus reduce possible burial depth should it slide. It is better to be carried further but buried less deeply.
Ross Hewitt on Tough Guy, in the Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress Group (The Norhern Sector, Lochnagar) (photo: Sandy Simpson)
If you are caught in an avalanche
If you feel the snow slope around you move, then shout to alert others and try to delay your departure by using your axe. Attempt to roll out to the side. If you are carrying a heavy sack, get rid of it. A light sack, however, can provide some protection and will not drag you down too much – and if you are lucky enough not to be buried, you will still have your gear with you. During the avalanche, if possible get onto your back with your head uphill and try to swim or roll in order to stay on the surface. As the avalanche slows make a desperate effort to get to the surface, or thrust a limb out of the snow. Make every effort to create a breathing space in front of your face. As the snow comes to a halt it often hardens up very rapidly, so making escape even more difficult as time passes. If buried, try to remain calm so as to conserve oxygen and energy, and do not shout as the sound will not be heard on the surface.
If you see someone caught in an avalanche
Keep them in sight and note their starting position and where they were last seen. Check for further danger, and attract the attention of other people in the area. Mark the position where the victim was last seen, so as to indicate the most likely burial area. Make a thorough search of the debris for surface clues. Probe the most likely burial spots then conduct a systematic search, probing with ice axes or walking poles with the baskets removed. If there are a lot of people in the vicinity then send someone for help, but remember the initial search is vital. If a buried victim is not suffering any serious trauma injuries then he/she has about a 90 per cent chance of survival if dug out in the first 15 minutes. However, after 35 minutes this drops to only about 30 per cent. Therefore the importance of the first search cannot be stressed too strongly.
Avalanche information
There is much good written material on avalanches, and some reading on the subject should be considered as part of overall mountain safety. Avalanche reports are produced by the sportscotland Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) for much of the area covered by this guide. Much useful information and daily forecasts can be found on their website at www.sais.gov.uk. This website can also be a useful source of information for assessing climbing conditions. In addition the daily forecasts are often displayed in police stations, sports shops and hotels throughout the area. They are also posted at many popular mountain access points, such as the Cairn Gorm ski area car park and Aberarder farm.
When using the avalanche report it is worth noting the date and time of issue, as the hazard is quoted for the day of issue and reflects the existing conditions. The avalanche outlook for the following day is also given, but this is dependent on the weather forecast. If this forecast is not accurate, then the avalanche forecast itself may be inaccurate. Having an avalanche information service forecast does not absolve climbers of responsibility for making their own decisions and assessment of the avalanche hazard.
Mountain Rescue
Mountain rescue teams are made up of experienced and skilful local mountaineers who undergo regular training in mountaineering and remote-care first aid skills. Rescues are co-ordinated by the police, who should be contacted by telephone on 999 in case of an accident or possible problem.
A direct line to the Aviemore or Braemar police stations may be quicker, and the numbers are as follows.
Aviemore police 01479 810 222
Deeside police 08456 005 700
The rescue organisations will require concise information about the incident, such as the name of the climb, the location, a map reference if possible, the number injured, the nature of the injuries, how they are equipped and if anyone is with the casualty. If there are only two in the party and it is not possible to contact the mountain rescue teams or attract anyone else either by shouting, whistle or torch-light, it is a difficult decision whether to go for help or stay. This will depend on the nature of injuries, the location, weather, equipment and perhaps other considerations. If the casualty is unconscious, then this decision is even more difficult. If you do go for help, make sure that the casualty is as well equipped and as comfortable as possible, and in the most sheltered and well-marked location that you can find or create.
There is a first aid box in the corrie of Lochnagar on a small flattening midway between the loch and Central Buttress. Likewise there is one in Coire an t-Sneachda near the triangular boulder by the lochans, but the contents of these boxes are likely to vary. Both these locations are favourite gearing-up spots.
CAIRNGORMS NORTH
Pete Macpherson on the superb first pitch of The Inquisition in Coire an Lochain (photo: John Lyall)
COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA
NH 994 033
This is the most accessible of the climbing corries in this area. A somewhat broken and sprawling set of buttresses ringed round the corrie edge. Of the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm this contains the widest selection of good low-grade winter routes, and as
