wildlife, from foxes to roe and fallow deer, or perhaps a badger as dusk approaches. Some of the walks cross areas of open chalk grasslands which support a wide range of butterflies, plants (including gentians and orchids) and birds such as the skylark and yellowhammer. You might see a buzzard or red kite soaring high above, silhouetted against the sky; the buzzard has a rounded tail whereas the red kite has a forked tail.
Alongside the canal and rivers, during the summer months, there are dragonflies, damselflies and butterflies as well as the ever-present ducks, coots, moorhens and mute swans. You may see great crested grebes, a grey heron patiently watching the water, waiting to catch a passing fish, or summer-visiting reed and sedge warblers, or spot the vivid turquoise-blue-and-orange flash of a kingfisher as it darts along the river. Maybe you will see the endangered water vole or, for the lucky few, an otter.
Waterside plants include the bright flowers of the yellow flag iris and stands of 1.5m-high common reed, which sometimes hide the canal from view. In the area around Bath, look out for the tall yellowish spikes of the nationally scarce Bath asparagus, also known as the spiked star of Bethlehem.
Clockwise from top left: damselfly; yellow flag iris; grey heron; common centaury; and mute swan (centre)
Where to stay
There is a wide range of accommodation, ranging from youth hostels and campsites to guesthouses, pubs with rooms, and hotels. The itinerary planner in Appendix B provides an overview of the different kinds of accommodation available at places near to the canal. Appendix C lists accommodation near to the route, including phone numbers and websites. To find out more about accommodation, visit the tourist information websites listed in Appendix D.
Getting to and around the canal
A number of main roads cross the canal at various points, joining with either the A4 or the M4 (both of which take an east–west route between London, Reading and Bristol). If travelling by car to any of the walks or canal stages, always remember to park considerately and never block access routes.
Railway stations that can be used to give access to the canal include: Reading, Theale, Aldermaston Wharf (Aldermaston station), Woolhampton (Midgham station), Thatcham, Newbury, Kintbury, Hungerford, Great Bedwyn, Pewsey, Melksham (off route), Trowbridge (off route), Bradford-on-Avon, Avoncliff, Freshford (off route), Bath, Keynsham and Bristol (Temple Meads). Where a specific walk or stage may be accessed by train, the nearest railway stations are given in the corresponding information box. Some walks and stages may also be accessed using buses – brief details are provided in each information box. For the latest information relating to public transport, use the contact details in Appendix D.
Bradford-on-Avon is one of the railway stations that can be used to access the canal (Stages 5 and 6, Walk 16)
Food and drink
Some of the canal stages and walks start at places where food and drink may be bought, whether it’s a shop, café or pub; some offer opportunities for stopping off en route at a pub or shop, although these are not always conveniently placed along the route. Brief details of refreshment opportunities are given in the information box at the start of each route, but bear in mind that there is no guarantee they’ll be open when required. Therefore it’s always a good idea to carry some food and drink with you, along with a small ‘emergency ration’ in case of an unexpected delay.
The Cunning Man pub at Burghfield Bridge sits beside the canal (Stage 1)
Walking the canal
This guide is in two parts: the first part covers the route along the entire length of the canal, while the second part describes 20 circular walks spaced along the length of the canal.
Walking the canal from Reading to Bristol
This section of the guide describes the route along the length of the canal. It has been split into seven stages ranging from 15.7 to 28.6km (9¾ to 17¾ miles), following the canal west from Reading to Bristol (see Appendix A for a stage summary table). Each stage may be further split into two convenient parts where there is parking and, in most cases, transport available. Suggestions for splitting the stages are given in the information box at the beginning of each stage.
For your own enjoyment and convenience, plan your walk carefully in advance. The stages are not intended to be individual day sections, but the start and end points coincide with places that offer parking and transport links locally and, within a reasonable distance, accommodation facilities (see Appendix B for an itinerary planner). The stages are provided to help walkers decide how far they would like to go each day, whether that means undertaking just part of a stage or combining multiple stages. It is entirely up to you how far you want to walk each day.
When following the stage descriptions, bear in mind that the locks decrease in number when travelling westwards from Blake’s Lock (107) at Reading to Hanham Lock (1), whereas the bridges increase in number.
Circular walks
The 20 individual circular walks in this guide range from 6.8 to 15km (4¼ to 9¼ miles) and cover fairly low-level terrain (less than 286m above sea level). Although some walks have several climbs and descents, some of which are steep, they should be suitable for most walkers. The routes generally follow well-defined tracks and paths, although some paths may be narrow and at times indistinct. The walk summary table in Appendix A provides the key statistics for all 20 walks.
Planning for the weather
When planning your walk, bear in mind the weather. Summers tend to be fairly dry and mild. Spring and autumn offer some of the best walking conditions: spring and early summer herald new life along the canal, with colourful displays of flowers, abundant birdsong and many butterflies, while cool autumn nights clothe the countryside in shades of russet, gold and brown. During the winter months, spells of rain can make some paths quite muddy and some routes may be impassable when rivers are flooded. However, walking on a clear, frosty winter’s day can be a magical experience.
Always choose clothing suitable for the season, along with a waterproof jacket, comfortable and waterproof footwear and a comfortable rucksack. On wet days, gaiters or waterproof trousers can also be very useful. It’s also worth carrying a basic first aid kit to deal with minor incidents.
Cycling the canal
Large sections of the canal towpath between Reading and Bath form part of Route 4 of the National Cycle Network and have been improved accordingly. National Cycle Route 4 (NCR4) generally follows the River Kennet and canal from Reading (SU 730 738) to Thatcham railway station (SU 527 663). After 4.6km on urban roads through Thatcham, it rejoins the towpath at Ham Bridge (SU 490 671) and then continues mainly on the towpath to Marsh Benham (SU 423 670). The next section to Devizes (SU 018 623) mostly follows country lanes, before rejoining the canal towpath to Bath (ST 758 654). From Bath to Bristol, NCR4 follows the Bristol & Bath Railway Path. For a map of NCR4, visit the Sustrans website at www.sustrans.org.uk.
The map extracts in this guide show the National Cycle Route 4; this is denoted with a solid green circle for on-road and a green circle with white centre for off-road (traffic-free) parts of the route.
The latest advice from the Canal & River Trust is that considerate cycling is allowed alongside the canal from Reading to Bath (visit
